A. D. 1702.
Jan. 6. Sadly concerned for my most useful and excellent friend, Mr. Thornton's, indisposition. I heard also that my kind friend, Dr. Cay, of Newcastle, is very weak, if alive. The Vicar also told me that our learned Dean of York having got cold, after he had heated himself in preaching upon Christmas-day, was very badly, and a fever was dreaded; and, to complete all, my Lord Archbishop himself was much indisposed, and not only dreaded such a fit of the stone as he had at London last Parliament, but seemed apprehensive that it might take him off, but with this Christian expression, the will of the Lord be done ! All these things go sore with me, and I went with a sad heart about the concerns of the day.
30. In my walks in the garden, ended Mr. White's (our late Recorder's) Majestas Intemerata, writ upon this very sad occasion, wherein abundance of reading, as well as zeal appears, but a crabbed style: he was the grandfather of Bishop White.
Feb. 7. Writing letters to the Secretary of the R.
S., Dr. Woodward, &c. by my honoured and dear friend, Mr. Kirk,
of whom took leave ; but there being my Lord Fairfax's sister, and other
relations likewise, for a London journey, was more expensive than could
have wished, considering losses, &c.
10. Collated the several editions of the prayer-books ; then transcribing Mr. Bowles's Memoirs, altering some more rigid expressions, and making additions from MSS. &c. in my own possession.
13. About poor ministers' pensions; afternoon, received a kind visit from Mr. Thornton and his brother Fenay, to see the collection of prints, Vandyke's heads, &c., which took up the rest of the day.
14. Writing per post to Mr. Evelyn, Mr. Kirk, Mr. Petyt, and Mr. Rymer, all in one to save postage.
15. Evening, finished in family Bedel's Diary of a Thankful Christian, a serious and useful piece, wherein also are many historical passages, handsomely applied, and to good purpose ; he seems to have been a moderate as well as pious divine, rightly observing the peculiar sin of that age to be enmity against the kingly government of Christ in his Church, justly declaiming against the sectaries, fairly owning that what had been generally loathed, because the broachers were prelatical, were then greedily swallowed under a name of sanctity, and what was insufferable in a prince, was commendable in a captain.
17. Invited by the courteous Sir Abstrupus Dan-by to dine with him ; went with him and his only son to view the old church, to see for the burying-place of that ancient family, and afterwards to see the new church.
19. Attending the magistrates and proper officers about the assessments, which took up the whole day except usual walks to church, and a little taking notes from the Saxon Heptateuch.
20. Evening with brother, &c. at Garraway's Coffee-house ; was surprised to see his sickly child of three years old fill its pipe of tobacco, and smoke it as audfarandly as a man of threescore ; after that, a second and third pipe without the least concern, as it is said to have done above a year ago.
24. In walks backward ; ended Davies's Rites of Durham Abbey, a most superstitious book, yet useful in its place, not only to know the distinct apartments of the old religious fabrics (which was my main design, in respect of Kirstal Abbey) but to discover the wondrous superstition of the poor ignorant Papists, in picturing God the Father, as well as Son and Holy Ghost. Afternoon, showing collections to a traveller, the late Bishop Huntington's (of Rapho) nephew, (who died at Dublin, 10th September last.)
28. Writing Memoirs of good old Mr. Todd.
March 4. Writing Memoirs for Mr. Calarny, till four: at church ; the vicar preached the funeral sermon for old Mrs. Pullain, mother of the late High Sheriff, who was born here, where his father, Mr. Pullain, is yet living, and can read without spectacles (which he formerly used), though ninety-two years of age. Poulain, in French, signifies a colt. And his son, Thomas Pullain, Esq. Stud-master to his Majesty, rose from a small beginning to a great estate by horses.
10. Sadly surprised with the news of the King's dangerous illness.
11. Was immediately and sadly surprised by an aged minister, who coming from Bishopthorp, met an express going to my Lord Archbishop, and after to the Lord Mayor of York, with the doleful tidings of the King's death. The vicar afterwards showed me a letter from ray Lord Archbishop, wherein he writes, "we are here even at our wit's end because of the King's dangerous illness." What shall we now do that so great a judgment has actually befallen us ! My poor wife was even overwhelmed with grief. Lord help us to put our trust in thee, who art the same God that hast preserved us in former dangers, and thy hand, oh Lord ! is not shortened ; were our sins less, our hopes might be greater. Lord help thy poor servants in this distress also! Till four at prayers. Lord help me to improve these happy opportunities while they are continued. What an invaluable mercy it is, that we have the liberty of address to the throne of grace at all times, and in all exigencies; but it was melancholy to want both the prayers (in public) for the King and Royal Family.
13. At the Court, where it was resolved by the Mayor, &c. to proclaim Queen Anne the next market-day. The Lord direct her in difficulties, and make her reign prosperous and pious.
16. Walked with cousin C. Sykes to his uncle Elston's ; was got to Hunbr-plefc (the canum area vel domus, when the cyninjar botl was at Leeds) when it chimed four, and to Bell-hill before we could have any benefit of its beautiful prospect. At Lofthouse, we saw a smith working with two hammers, one of which, by a pretty contrivance (the first I have seen in these parts,) he moved with his foot, that he had the use of his left hand to hold the iron, while he struck with his right; and this engine supplied the place of a labourer to strike with the great hammer. Thence over the Outwood, (though now scarce a tree to be seen,J and by Newton to Wakefield, where visited uncle and aunt Pool, of the same family with the famous Mr. Matthew Pool, author of the Synopsis Criticorum, who was born at York, where his father, Francis Pool, Esq. (an eminent lawyer) married Alderman Toppin's daughter, near the lower church, in Micklegate, (query, register for date of his birth). His father, also, sometimes lived at Hull; my uncle Pool's father was his clerk. At the end of Westgate we saw the new erected meeting-place, where his son-in-law, my cousin Sagar, preacheth; and upon the little common beyond had a prospect of Low Hill, of which see Mr. Whyte's notes, and Dugdale on the Sepulture of the Ancients, in his History of Warwickshire. Query, whether Lupset may have any relation to it, or any customs then in use, upon such solemn occasions; hlyp or hlip5 signifying Saltus, a leaping ; and brS iter, a journey, or way.* After family prayer and reading, got cousin Elston to let me have the perusal of uncle Pickering's old papers and commissions relating to the late times; found original letters subscribed by the persons in five or six several governments in one year, viz. 1659. Afterwards viewed the house formerly the seat of Sir John Savile, Bart, but found no arms, &c. in the windows ; only in the hall is Sir John's and his lady's in plaster ; the gardens and orchards are curious, kept in the new order of dwarf trees, &c. except a remarkable yew-tree, and the wall-fruits that are forward to a wonder, the apricots set, and some pretty large; but such a season was never known for hot and fair weather so soon in the year. After dinner, cousin Elston kindly accompanied us to cousin Sagar's, at Flanshill, where disappointed of his company, being from home, that stayed less time there. Flanshill, seems to me to be so denominated from some noted tilting, or the exercise of some warlike weapons ; but whether from flan, or flae, an arrow, or flaene, a sword, spear, or lance, I know not; or whether from some extraordinary action there performed, or perhaps the customary place of exercise, &c. Then by Allerthorp, (so called from Aleji, or Alop, Alnus, the alder-trees,) and Silk-house, to the Pott-ovens, (Little London in the dialect of the poor people,) where I stayed a little to observe, not only the manner of forming their earthenware, (which brought to mind that of the Prophet, " As clay in the hands of the potter, so are we in the Lord's," &c.) but to observe the manner of building the furnaces, then-size and materials, which are small, and upon the surface of the ground, &c. ; which confirms me in my former apprehensions, that those remains at Haw-caster-rigg are really the ruins of a Roman pottery. Vide Phil. Trans. No. 222. Thence, over the skirts of the Outwood, by Lingwell-gate, to Thorp-on-the-Hill, near which were found those clay impressions, or moulds for counterfeiting the Roman coins, mentioned in the Philosophic Transactions, No. 234>, which made me very apprehensive of some Roman station, or camp, in these parts ; and there is a long ridge that seems to have been one of their Vise Vicinales, that passeth over a considerable part of the Outwood, directly to Lingwell-gate, as it is called to this day, in memory, I presume, of the Lin-gones, some of the Roman auxiliaries brought from Gaul, which Carnden places in this West Riding of Yorkshire, viz. the second, or rather the first cohort, at Ilkley, which they rebuilt in Severus's time. Another cohort seems to have been placed here, as the very name Lingorum Vallum testifies, for the Latins pronounced the u as we do the w, (for which, Vide Somner and Casaubon de Lingua Ang. Vet.) who particularly instances in Vallum, a wall, (for well there is none, nor indeed any need, because a running water at the foot of the hill,) besides, the Roman coining moulds were all of emperors and empresses, about the time of Severus, the Anto-nines, and Julius. Thence we walked up-hill to Thorpe, super montem, as it is writ in the Rowell Registers, now the seat of Mr. Ingrain, who courteously procured me some of the Roman impressions found there. Thence by Newhall, once the seat of the most celebrated mathematician, not only in these parts, but I believe in the world, viz. Mr. William Gascoigne, eldest son of Henry Gascoigne, Esq. who so long ago as the time of King Charles the First, (in whose service he was slain,) discovered and made constant use of a curious instrument, that Monsieur Azout, the French astronomer in this age, prides himself as the first inventor of. (Vide Mr. Townley, of Townley's letters, both in the Phil. Trans. and Dr. Leigh's Natural History of Lancashire.) Thence in our way to Woodhouse Hill, we called to see an ingenious engine, &c. lately erected by Mr. Brandling, to drain his coal-mines, &c. but missing of himself, received little satisfaction. After a visit to poor cousin Fenton, (Lord, sanctify afflic tions to us all!) returned somewhat wearied, but well, and found all well at home : Blessed be the God of our mercies!
17. Queen Anne was proclaimed by the Mayor and Corporation in their formalities, and by several country gentlemen, Sir Walter Hawksworth, &c. but I was best pleased that my honoured and dear friend, Mr. Thornton complied; heard the like also of the Earls of Clarendon, Lichfield, Rutland, &c. that it may please God to prevent those judgments of a Popish successor, that our sins have merited. Lord bless and direct her Majesty, Council, and Parliament, that all things may be so ordered and settled by their endeavours, upon the best and surest foundations, that peace and happiness, truth and justice, religion and piety, may be established amongst us, and transmitted to succeeding generations, for Jesus Christ's sake.
21. Hasting with my dear and children to visit relations at Newsom Green ; in return made some remarks upon the Roman highway, which I traced a considerable way at the lower end of Newsom Green, whence it tends to Thorp Hall, where it is very visible, and thence to Skelton Grange, a little beyond which (over against the mill) it is yet very plain, but, since I can remember, extended much further (towards Knostrop), but was ploughed up by Mr. Clark.
23. With my dear and daughter cleaning the books from dust and rnoths, and comparing the catalogue for such as are lent and not returned, &c. Finished Sir William Dugdale's Catalogue of the nobility of the three kingdoms, with baronets, &c. a useful tract, yet, as to the nobility of England, far outdone by that of my ingenious and industrious friend Mr. Dale.
24. At Town-End, where stayed too late, and had too much occasion to bewail what Dr. Manton calls dry drunkenness, when indisposed for duty.
25. Ended my pious and ingenious friend Mr. Gibson's (now Bishop of Lincoln) Reflections upon a Pretended Expedient; much concerned for fear the opposite party of Hyperconformists should now, upon the King's death, prevail against the Bishops themselves and moderate party, who, in my poor apprehension, seem wholly in the right in this controversy.
April 1. To visit my dear friend Mr. Thornton, per
whom my Lord Archbishop had sent me a very curious manuscript almanack
(which his Grace had bought for me); the cost was great (ten shillings),
but respects greater.
7. Went to see poor brother ; in the way met with the sad news that
Alderman Lasonby, of this town, and many other passengers and soldiers,
were cast away near the Dutch coast; the case of that poor family (a
poor melancholy widow, and many orphans, and intricate accounts, &c.)
very much affected me. This, in a few minutes, was succeeded with another
sad relation of the civil death of cousin B. M. the Alderman's brother.
Lord, sanctify all providences. Afterwards received a kind visit from
Mr. Boulter, of Gawthrop-hall, with whom dined at Mr. Thornton's.
11. At church, where the Vicar told me the sad news of the death of my kind friend, the Dean of York (Dr. Gale), which is a public loss, both as he was a very religious and truly pious divine, and as he was one of the most learned men in the Christian world ; myself can abundantly testify the former, to whom he most affectionately bewailed the growing prophaneness of the nation, &c.; and the great applause the learned part of the world has given to his works, is an undeniable testimony of the latter.
14. Received two invitations to the funeral of the Dean of York ; prepared for a journey ; and, after dinner, walked to the warren-house on Brarnham Moor, and Major Fairfax being from home, then to the Street-houses ; lodged at the Libyan Hercules (Mr. Corlass's niece).
15. Walked to York, visited Mr. Gyles, then at prayers at the minster ; afterwards visited Dr. Colton, Mr. Hodgson, &c. Afternoon, at the funeral of my excellent and dear friend, Dr. Thomas Gale, Dean of York, who was interred with great solemnity ; lay in state, 200 rings (besides scarfs for bearers, and gloves to all) given in the room where I was, which yet Avould not contain the company ; yet was the lamentation greater for the loss of so learned, pious, and useful a person, whose death was deservedly lamented by persons of all denominations. Thought to have returned part of the way, but was invited to sup at the deanery; was kindly received by both the sons ; was somewhat revived to see so much of the Dean in Mr. Gale, &c.
25. Writ Memoirs of Mr. Cartwright and Mr. Gunter, &c. to Mr. Calamy, which deferred family prayer till noon (there being a necessity of hastening the Memoirs, the press staying for them). Afternoon, unhappily sent for by Alderman Dixon and Mr. Barker, under colour of business, but indeed to engage my vote for the next election of an alderman. Lord, make them as solicitous to discharge the duties of that station ! This, unhappily, prevented my attendance at the prayers, which troubled me. This has been a sad week; I cannot reflect upon it without shame and grief; the Lord pity and pardon.
29. Rode to Halifax, and after the dispatch of brother Hough's concerns, and attestation of the writings, went to the Vicarage to visit Mr. Wilkin-son ; took some extracts from the registers, &c. Was to see the church and new library, which he has exceedingly beautified.
30. Taking extracts of the chantries at Leeds, &c. from Mr. Nalson's MS. collections, lent me by Mr. Wilkinson. After, became bound (with brother Rayner) for brother Hough's payment of 20/. per annum to good old aunt, during her natural life. May 5. Heard of the death of my good old friend, and my father's, Mr. Oliver Heywgpd ; invited to the funeral: and presently after had news of the promotion of my ingenious friend, Mr. William Nicholson, to the bishopric of Carlisle. What various providences are we exercised with ! Lord, help me to make a good improvement of all!
May 5. Heard of the death of my good old friend, and
my father's, Mr. Oliver Heywgpd ; invited to the funeral: and presently
after had news of the promotion of my ingenious friend, Mr. William
Nicholson, to the bishopric of Carlisle. What various providences are
we exercised with ! Lord, help me to make a good improvement of all!
7. Rode with Mr. Peters* to Northowram, to the funeral of good old Mr. O. Heywood. He was afterwards interred with great lamentations in the parish church at Halifax : was surprised at the following Arvill, or treat of cold possets, stewed prunes, cake and cheese, prepared for the company, where had several Con. and Noncon. ministers and old acquaintance. The word is derived from the Saxon Ajie, alimentum, sustenance, nourishment, &c. Afterwards had Mr. Waterhouse and Mr, Brearcliffe's company at good old aunt Hough's ; then, with Mr. Peters, visited the pious and ingenious Mr. Priestley and family. Sat up late enough with so good company.
29. Took the measuring-wheel, and having surveyed to the extent of the parish at Wikebridge, continued it by Secroft, prcelii prcediolum, or Battle-croft, over that moor, (leaving Penwell Dale on the right hand,) and Grimesdike, or Morrickfur, to Win-moor ; thence by Scoles Outwood (which an old man told rne himself can remember a thick wood, though now there is not a tree upon it,) over Cock-beck ; thence over Rakehill, which, whether it have any historical relation to the memorable battle ( pace signifying historia, narratio, &c.) I cannot tell; crossed the yet little beck of Cock again ; thence over the Car and up Windlehill, (which, whether it have any reference to piuhel, sportclla, or pmhc, latus r vratus, I know not,) to Berwick, seven miles by < measure, (from Leeds church to that at Berwick) though but five by computation. Was disappointed of my expectations in the church, there being no monuments for the ancient family of the Gascoignes or Ellis's, save only fragments of their arms, &c. in the painted glass, but most of the windows defaced, &c. But was mightily pleased with a very remarkable mount, which I surveyed strictly, (vide the dimensions elsewhere,) which is to this day called the Hall-tower-hill, which confirms my former notion, that when the Saxon kings had their cyninjaj-botl at Leeds, this was a manor grange farm, country seat, appendant thereunto, one of the Berwicks (cum suis Berwicis, vide my MS. notes from Spel-man, Somner, &c.) Healle signifies aula, palatlum, &c. Besides, there is a universal tradition of a king's residence there, &c. The old parsonage house is demolished, and now re-edifying by Mr. Tankard, the Duke of Leeds' chaplain ; but I found little remarkable there, save the King's arms in painted gbss, which yet must be after Edward III., be-caiise the flowers-de-lis are limited to three: King Henry V. first stinted them to three. Returned by Scoles over another part of Winmoor, &c. Observed the toll-gatherer's booth, where the agents of Sir Thomas Gascoigne are ready to receive toll of the carriages, which, at a penny a pair of wheels, amounts to a considerable sum. But what I am more concerned for, it seems to me a confirmation of my sentiments, that the old (Roman) road from York over Bramham to Leeds, (the ancient Legeo-lium) was by Berwick over Whitkirk Moor, where the ridge is visible to this day, quite over the moor, till we come at the enclosures, &c. by Newsom, Thorphall, to Leeds: for the modern way by Kiddal Hall, where Mr. Ellis also receives an acknowledgment, and over Winmoor, that belongs to the Gas-coignes, seems to be of late ages, &c.
June 4. Rode to York, but took Bishopthorp in the way
; got in time enough to wait of my Lord Archbishop in his library before
prayers, &c. Then had the Bishop of Ely's (good old Dr. Patrick's)
company, and after a little my special friend, Bishop Nicholson, of
Carlisle, (whose election was yesterday confirmed at York.) There was
the vastest concourse of the clergy and gentry that ever I saw at once,
that, besides the three tables in the dining-room, several were obliged
to go into another room, &c. So tempting company made me stay the
longer, yet business forced me to York, though my affectionate desires
complied with Mr. Archdeacon Pear-son's kind invitation to lodge at
Bolton Percy with the Bishop, who is for London in the morning. Consulted
the Chancellor and Mr. Empson about ditto administration. Evening, at
the manor with the ingenious Mr. Place,* with whom, and Mr. Empson,
at Montague Gyles's, to enquire after antiquities found in the Roman
burying-place. Received a remarkable account of a lead coffin, surrounded
with one of oak planks two inches thick, found nine feet deep, the bones
entire, (of which I have the lower jaw and a thigh bone,) though possibly
a thousand and five hundred years old ; also fragments of the lead,
wood, and nails, which are remarkable.
5. Read my Lord Archbishop's sermon at the coronation of the Queen (which his Grace gave me yesterday) before prayer; then to visit worthy Mr. Gale, the late excellent Dean's son, and the very obliging Precentor, Dr. Fall, who kindly presented me with a pious treatise of the primitive Archbishop Leighton's, which himself published the last year, having a great veneration for that pious prelate's memory, who died about 1674. His pious mother-in-law, Madam Leighton, was a benefactor to this parish, &c. Then at Mr. Gyles's to see a noble window that he has painted most exquisitely for Denton-hall, my Lord Fairfax's. After dinner again to consult Mr. Empson, with whom, in the Consistory Court at the trial, had the desired success, in what all seemed to apprehend reasonable as well as just. Then for several hours engaged in the perusal of manuscripts in Mr. Empson's office, was particularly pleased, that after much seeking in Archbishop Thoresby's Register, temp. Edward III. I found a record concerning that pious prelate's so memorable exposition of the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments, in the English tongue, which he required all the clergy in his diocese to read unto their parishioners ;* as also with a more modern manuscript of the clergy's subscriptions; whence I found the colleges where Mr. Wales, &c. were educated, as well as the times of their taking holy orders. Afterwards visited good Mr. Hodg-son, (the charitable Lady Hewley's chaplain,) and the obliging Sir John Middleton, who having found the two original letters of King Henry VIII.'s writing, which his father-in-law (the last heir male of the ancient family of the Lamberts of Calton) promised me, has laid them aside for my collection : had also his ingenious chaplain Mr. Leach's company. Evening sat up too late with a parcel of artists I had got on my hands, Mr. Gyles, the famousest painter of glass perhaps in the world, and his nephew, Mr. Smith, the bell-founder (from whom I received the ringing, or gingling spur, and that most remarkable with a neck six inches and a half long;) Mr. Carpenter, the statuary, and Mr. Etty, the painter, with whose father, Mr, Etty, sen. the architect, the most celebrated Grinlin Gibbons wrought at York, but whether apprenticed with him or not I remember not well. Sate up full late with them.
6. In return, visited Dr. Barwick Fairfax at Newton, and Major Fairfax, who being upon a journey, prevented my designed quest about the Roman antiquities at Newton. Rode by the house there where Bishop Oglethorp, of Carlisle (who crowned Queen Elizabeth), was born. From Bram-ham-moor I rode in pursuit of the Roman highway, by Potterton, where it appears in one part of the lane for a considerable space, pointing directly to Berwick; through mistake of the way, I went to Beckay Grange, which seems to have been a considerable place ; where the remains of the hall stands, deep trenches; and I was told by an intelligent person I met with, that there is another ridge very visible in some parts of Beckay grounds, which comes directly from the great ridge at or about Aber-ford, westward towards Potterton, &c. but could not ,, come at it on horseback : at Berwick, inquiring after the ruins or rubbish that Camden mentions, whence he supposes that the town was walled round, I was directed to a most remarkable agger on the north side of the town, partly opposite to the hall-tower-hill, till divided from it by the road into the town from Leeds, and this doubtless is the Windle-hill. I left my horse and clambered to the top of it ; it is to this day so high and steep on either side that I was almost. afraid to walk it in my boots, &c. yet walked upon the top of it about three hundred paces, till interrupted by cross hedges at one end and buildings at the other, where it enters upon the town, but was never designed as a wall to it, for it terminates at the nearer end of it, but seems to have turned towards the Hall-tower-hill. By so much of it as I could then trace under so great inconveniences, shows it plainly to have been circular ; and if it has not received its denomination from pang, (wang-hill) campus, ager, I should think it so called from its turning, Wenbel hil as Wenbel ras (the Mediterranean Sea)—(it is called Wendel-hill to this day)—from penban vertere, whence to wind or turn is continued to this age, in the same notion. From Berwick I rode by Barnbow-hall, forte a Beapn, Primus, Princeps, (Noe sic dictus,) the seat of a very ancient family of the Gascoignes. Sir Thomas was there now, but I could find nothing of the Roman rig amongst the inclosures, till I came to Whitkirk-moor, where upon that part commonly called Brown-moor, it is very apparent quite across the whole moor ; it seems to come from Berwick and Barnbow, by Marston to this moor, and thence directly in a line in the enclosures, where in some places it is visible without alighting from the horse, till we come at Swillington-moor, but whether it turn thence by the top of Newsom-green by the bank close, or go quite over that moor where I traced a ridge to Bulky-grange, and so go down to the bottom of Newsom-green, I know not; but in endeavouring to find this, had almost lost myself. After a visit to brother Hough's, at Newsom-green, in the fields below which I have traced the ridge on foot, I returned by Pontefract-lane.
12. Got to York in due time and without inconvenience, though much rain in the night ; was with Mr. Empson, &c. about administration ; and then with the Chancellor, Dr. Watkinson, about ditto. Afterwards, at my Lord Archbishop's Register-office, transcribing part of Archbishop Thoresby's serious Treatise in old English, to oblige the clergy to instruct their parochians in English. Afterwards visited Dr. Cotton and Mr. Hodgson.
13. Walking in the minster till the office was opened ; when busied again in transcribing what I could of ditto excellent MS. out of the original Register, till past twelve. After dinner returned by Tadcaster, and finding the minister by the old mount, at the town-end, discoursed him relating to their antiquities ; he showed me the place, now at the far end of a large field, that yet retains the name of Kel Bar, whither they suppose their old Calcaria reached, one part of which field is so impregnated with the lime, that it brings forth excellent corn without manuring. They have a tradition of Tod-castle standing upon ditto hill.
16. With W. P. and another Quaker about business, found, under a pretence of a holy simplicity, downright treachery, was tricked out of two guineas. Lord, pardon them ! Sent for by Mr. Arthing-ton, of Arthington (lately admitted into the list of the Royal Society), who gave me the inscription upon a Roman monument lately discovered upon Adle Moor, where the continuation of the Roman via vicinalis that I discovered at Haw-caster-rig, upon Black-moor is visible, and they apprehend tends to Ilkley.
17. Writ to Dr. Sloane, Sec. Royal Society.
18. At Mr. B.'s with Esquire Hutton, of Popple-ton ; then at the christening of Mr. Mawd's son ; had the vicar's, and rest of the clergy's good company, but all melancholy at the news of the dangerous illness and yet more dangerous hardness of a certain lord, to whom good Mr. Thornton, after he had made his will, most piously and affectionately minded him of eternity, desiring that Mr. Killingbeck might be permitted to attend his lordship, to which the piteous reply was, Mr. K. was a good man, but he was not weak enough for that, and since when he has had little sense of any thing. Lord, in much mercy, open blind eyes! Some other piteous circumstances of a past life and approaching death made me tremble.
19. Drawing the figure of an ancient and very odd spur for Dr. Woodward, to transmit to Mon. Sperlingus, who is writing a tract de armis veterum.
20. Writ to Dr. Woodward, at Gresham College ; evening, transcribing the pedigree of the Lord Ir-wins from Mr. Hopkinson's MS.
24. To three clergymen (Mr. Robinson, &c.) procured their attestations for brother Idle, to be transmitted to Sir J. Levison Gower, Chancellor of the Duchy. Afternoon, rode with Mr. Barstow to visit my dear friend, Mr. Kirk, at Cookridge, to see his curiosities bought lately at London.
25. Rode to the Spas at Harrowgate, to visit and consult dear Mr. Thornton, with whom, and Mr. Dwyer and Mr. Denison, spent rest of day and evening, vipon the forest; which, although now not a tree scarce for a way mark, did of old so abound in wood, that it was so called from the Saxon heapj, or hffipj, lucus; yet, for want of such a guide, and what the excessive rain and hail, which almost blinded me, I missed the way, and got cold. The place itself is so altered with new buildings, from what it was when I knew it formerly, that it helped to deceive me.
26. Rode through Knaresborough, Flasby, and Allerton Maleverer, over Marston, or Hessay Moor, (where the bloody battle was fought in the late unhappy wars,) through Akeham to York. Went immediately to Mr. Empson, and with him to the Chancellor, to certify him of the falsehood of the opponent's allegations; then transcribing ditto the memorable old English paraphrase of Archbishop Thoresby's, of the Creed, Lord's Prayer, Commands, &c., which that pious prelate's zeal to rescue poor creatures from the predominant ignorance of that dark age,, enjoined the clergy to read through his province. Writing ditto from the original record till two, then at the Court, succeeded in what I apprehend equitable and highly reasonable, as well as legal. Evening, visited Mr. Hodg-son, the good old Lady Hewley's chaplain, who has now actually endowed her lately-erected hospital with 60/. per annum, for ten widows.
27. Rode to Bishopthorp; dined with his Grace, who would have presented me with a Coronation medal, which I thankfully refused, having one before. Returned well home ; though thunder and rain on every side, got little of it, blessed be God !
July 8. Drinking our Leeds Spa waters; after sent for
by Mr. S. Hickson, whose wife, (the late Dr. Neal's relict,) lay a dying,
but very sensible ; persuaded her to make her will, which, with other
writings to settle her concerns, prevented me both forenoon and afternoon
of attending the public prayers, as also of Mr. Kirk's company, who
sent for me about business, as he went to the funeral of the late Lord
Irwin. Rest of the day transcribing MS. pedigrees.
11. Drinking the waters; after at the funeral of Mrs. Hickson.
17. Received a kind visit from Mr. Smith,* the pious author of the True Notion of Imputed Righteousness and our Justification thereby, to whom showing books, &c., but unhappily prevented, as frequently this week, of attendance upon the public prayers. Lord, pity and pardon !
21. At the Spas ; after rode to York, with vast numbers to the election of Knights of the Shire for the ensuing Parliament; waited of my Lord Fairfax and Sir John Kaye: afterwards sent for, with Mr. Kirk, by some ingenious gentlemen, Sir Godfrey Copley, Mr. Molesworth, (who wrote the State of Denmark,) Mr. Arthington, and Mr. Kirk; one of company observed, that being but five in company, all were Fellows of the Royal Society ; might have added all that were in the county, and of it, except Dr. Lister and Dr. Bentley, who are in the south. Was afterwards with my Lord Fairfax, Sir Walter Hawksworth, and some members of Parliament, till pretty late. Had Mr. Fenton's company.
22. At the Castle-yard, where was a general dis-content visible in the countenances and expressions of all persons at my Lord Fairfax's declining, as being too late in his applications ; came but into Yorkshire on Saturday last, though people generally apprehended, if he had but appeared this morning, he would have been one. I was again with several gentlemen to wait of him, but, upon his resolution to desist, the Marquis of Hartington and Sir John Kaye were elected.
28. With Mr. Fenton, from whom, and a person that gathered it, received a parcel of the reputed wheat that was rained on Lord's day last, betwixt Hunslet and Middleton, but 'tis rather seeds of ivy-berries, or other plants.
31. At the Spas ; ended Bishop Patrick's Friendly Debate, wherein are some things jocose, and some censured as severe, but many solid arguments against separation.
August 3. Begun the answer to the Friendly Debate,
called, The Humble Apology ; concluded Mr. Gibson's, Bishop of Lincoln,
Synodus Anglicana, a most curious and excellent treatise ; the ingenious
and industrious author's present, who, from the registers and journals
printed from the original MSS. draws so pertinent and judicious observations,
as I hope will put an end to the controversy betwixt the Upper and Lower-
Houses of Convocation. Afternoon, with the Lords of the Manor for fee-farm-rents;
prevented thereby of public prayer. Evening, with nephew Wilson, and
Mr. Witton, of Gray's Inn ; and after to visit Alderman Milner indisposed
: the doctor was apprehensive of a fever.
8. Writing to Dr. Cay. Getting in hay, which came so unhappily as to
prevent attendance on public prayer. Evening, concluded the Humble Apology
for the Nonconformists, wherein are some too severe reflections upon
the Bishops and Conformity itself; but there are also some modest and
healing concessions ; and if that proposition, p. 131, could be made
good, that for laying aside the ceremonies, the Church might gain thousands
and ten thousands of our brethren, I should rejoice to see that happy
day: with this proviso, that as the observance of them should not be
imposed upon some, so neither denied to others who could not be satisfied
in the omission:
and to my own particular case, as I should have some ease thereby, as
to the cross in baptism (which though I think lawful, yet had rather
omit) and taking charge of my own child in that ordinance, either singly
or jointly with some conscientious friend who would assist me, and after
my death look upon themselves as obliged in conscience to see to the
education of the orphan ; so on the other hand, as I should not omit
the monthly celebration of the Lord's Supper, so neither the usual gesture,
the Church declaring so fully against the abuse of it, nor should I
ever, I hope, as long as I am able to walk, so far forbear a constant
attendance upon the public common prayers twice every day, in which
course I have found much comfort and advantage, and do from my very
heart bless God for those happy opportunities, the loss of which is
almost the sole reason that keeps me from a solitary recess into the
country, for a greater freedom in study and meditation. But an All-wise
God has determined the bounds of our habitations, who knows better what
is good for us than we do for ourselves. Blessed be his name for all
mercies !
12. Visited by Mr. Midgley, of Brearey, and some other mathematicians from the country, desirous to see collections. Received a kind visit from Mr. Brearey, Fellow of Jesus College, Cambridge, and Lawyer Foster, to whom showing library and MSS.
13. Walked over the Black-moor ; had Haw-caster-rig and Tuninghal (or hough, rather) hill, on the left hand, and Moor-Allerton, and the Street-lane on the right; to Allingley, (in old writings, Alwoodley), whence Mr. Midgley walked with us to Eccup Moor and Adle, to direct to the place where the heaps of ruins were lately discovered. After a transient view went to the mill below; discoursed John Robinson, an intelligent person, who having occasion to plough a parcel of ground he had leased of Cyril Arthing-ton, of Arthington, Esq. lord of the soil, was the happy occasion of this discovery of a Roman town, which by the ruins seems to have been very considerable ; they have got up so many stones, though they have dug no deeper than necessity obliged to make way for the plough, that they have already built therewith two walls, one a yard high and twenty seven rood long, the other a yard and a half high and fifty-two rood long; these are rough stones the foundations of houses, many of which were three or four courses high, undemolished, being under the surface of the ground. We took as particular a view as the present circumstances will admit of, and found fragments of urns of a very large size ; but what is most remarkable, are the remains of two funeral monuments, one has PIENTISSIMA, very legible; another a larger inscription, D.M.S. CADIDINI^E FOII-TVNA PIA V.A.X. (vixit annos x.)* I returned by Adle to see the head, which is all that remains of a noble statue the full proportion of a man : discoursed the old man who digged it up some years ago, as also a stone with an inscription, which I could not retrieve, but hope to have these brought hither in carts the next week, with one of the little mill-stones found also amongst the ruins not far off. I viewed a Roman camp which is yet very entire: there is another somewhat less upon the said moor, and a third upon Bramhope moor, which I had not time now to survey, it turning to rain, that we were severely wet ere we reached home, but putting on warm and dry apparel, got no harm, blessed be God !
14. Consulting Burton's Comment upon Anto-ninus's Itinerary, where, if Selegocim, or Agelocim, as it is elsewhere writ, had been the station on this side Danum, I should have concluded this had been the place, and should have read it as Camden himself once did, (when he made that station at Idle-ton,) Adellocum (the ancient name is Adel in the Monastic, p. 857,) much of which old name is yet retained in the present name of Adle, or Adel; and this very author refers, p. 247, to a transposition of two stations, Nidum before Bornium; and why may not Danum be misplaced before Adelocum ? or why might there not be two several Adelocums, as our late learned Dean of York, Dr. Gale, (whose assistance I greatly want in this matter,) apprehended from the Roman altar in my possession, that there were two Condates : this Adelocum, or what other station soever it has been, seems, by the blackness of the earth, and remaining burnt coals and cinders, to have been burnt down by the Brigantes, in some of their revolts from the Romans, perhaps in Hadrian's time, when Julius Severus was called out of Britain, where he was President, to go against the Jews, who then also rebelled. Was ruminating and searching authors about these matters, till ten at church.
16. Read Bishop Usher of Self-Examination, wherein, through mercy somewhat affected, being concerned (though, alas ! infinitely short of what I ought,) for the mispence of my life hitherto, having this day completed forty-four years : alas! that I have lived so long, and done so little to any good purpose ; Lord, pardon by past sins, and in much mercy, give me power against them for the future, that the little yet remaining may be spent after a more holy and exemplary manner, that I may be more useful in my generation !
19. Ended Bishop Patrick's Appendix, in defence of himself, wherein are many things instructive, particularly as to the Chor-Episcopi and Suffragan Bishops, as well as some things reputed sharp. Lord, heal our piteous breaches ! Then writing to Mr. Evelyn.
20. Received a visit from the Lord Irwin and his tutor, Mr. Ingram, of Barrowby, to whom showing the collections of coins and natural curiosities.
21. Writing a little, till sent for by Mr. Kirk, who being for Temple
Newsom, I took that opportunity to wait of my Lord Irwin, and Mr. Machel,
(a noted member of Parliament,) his grandfather. After dinner, to view
the hall and gardens ; some pictures in the gallery are considerable,
particularly St. Francis, said to be worth 300/.
25. Walked to Mr. Kirk's, but prevented of surveying the Roman camp
at Adle, by the coming in of Mr. Arthington and other gentlemen ; so
that I accepted of my Lord Irwin's kindness, and came home with him
and Mr. Machel in the coach.
29. About poor ministers' concerns ; then showing collections to Mr. Hotham, &c. After, preparing for a journey. Lord, grant thy gracious presence, protect thy poor unworthy servant from sin, the greatest of all evils, and from the calamities that might justly befal me for sin, and preserve thy handmaid and the poor children thou hast entrusted us with, and the poor orphans thy Providence has committed to our charge ;* charge thy good angels with all of us, and whatever appertains unto us, for thy mercy's sake ! My kind friend, Mr. Kirk, having sent his man and horses for me, I rode thither in the evening, and enjoyed his acceptable converse ; was looking amongst his books, &c.
30. Rode with Mr. Kirk and family to their parish church at Adle. Afterwards rode with this good company to Arthington Hall, and thence after dinner again to Adle church. After prayers at the parsonage-house, with ditto good company, attesting the writings about his induction, &c. Evening, returned to Cookridge.
31. Began our tour from Cookridge, which I am apt to think received its denomination from the Roman rig or ridge, which passeth by it in its course from Blackmoor, in the parish of Leeds, Alwoodley, and the lately discovered town and camp near Adle-mill to Olicana, &c. Mon cher ami, Mr. Kirk, rode with me to several places in his grounds there where it is not only visible, but points directly to the said camp. Further on, upon Bramhope-moor, in the place now called Stadtfolds, we saw another large camp, but this has a double agger, though by its squareness and the leading of the via vicinalis thereunto, it seems also to have been Roman ; here also we saw the nameless head of our Sheepscar beck, upon which, in so small a distance, are seven or eight mills before it joins with the river Aire at Leeds. Thence we rode to the highest point of the Cheven (in British, the ridge of the mountain, as Camden tells us) ; had a large and noble prospect of Wharf-(vulgo Wharl)-dale, viz. of Mensington or Menston, (the seat of my honoured friend Thomas Fairfax, Esq. now of Leeds, for the convenience of the church, which he duly and piously frequents with his lady twice every day :) his father, Mr. Charles Fairfax, third son, who survived the first Thomas Lord Fairfax (for his two famous brothers, captain William and John Fairfax, were slain in the Palatinate) was an eminent antiquary, wrote Analecta Fairfaxiana, &c. and the first of Menston: Burley-wood-head and the lordship thereof, the seat of Mr. Pullen : Ilkley, (the Roman Olicana,) Middleton-lodge, Bethmesley-beacon, and Nessefield-scar, all three belonging to the ancient family of the Middletons of Stockeld, which is within the constablery of Middle-ton, though near a dozen miles distant: the manor of Denton and Askwith, both which appertain to the Right Honourable Thomas Lord Fairfax, of Denton-hall, a strong and stately building, as is also Weston, the seat of—— Vavasour, Esq.; New-hall, of Mr. Hardisty ; Farnley, the pleasant seat of Thomas Fawkes, Esq. my dearest father's friend and mine ; his son, Mr. Franics Fawkes, is also ingenious and obliging: between Farnley and Leethley, Washburn falls into Wharfa. Leethley is the seat of Mr. Hitch, whose grandfather was Dean of York; Lindley, of the noted member of Parliament, William Palmes, Esq. my father's special friend, and yet living in the south, to whom also appertains Stainburn. The next thing in view are the two famous crags of Ames-cliff, in some old writings called Aylmoys ut dici-tur, but have yet seen nothing memorable of it, saving its remarkable lofty situation ; Rigton, the possession of the Duchess of Buckingham, but in reversion my Lord Fairfax's ; Casley, where Mr. Robert Dyneley, the second son of my late good old friend Robert Dyneley, Esq. has built a seat: Wee-ton, Dunkesswick, Weerdley, the Manor of Harwood, its ancient castle and church, all appertain to my honoured and kind friend John Boulter, Esq. of Gawthorp-hall, who has brought me several curiosities from beyond the sea, and (which will make him justly famous in succeeding ages) has given 501. per annum to the church at Harwood, and 10/. or 12/. to the school, &c.: Kirkby-overblows to the Duke of Somerset, who is patron of the living, worth 3501. per annum (as also of Spawforth, worth 400/. or near 5001. per annum) and Lord of both the manors: Swinden-hall to the Bethels, of which family Dr. Bethel and the late Sheriff of London, Slingsby Bethel, author of a Treatise called ......
Had also a view of the noble edifice at Arthington built by the ingenious Cyril Arthington, Esq. F.R.S. Lord of the manors of Arthington, Adle, &c. to the reputed value of 22001. per annum. Bramhope, of John Dyneley, Esq. whose famous grandfather built and endowed the chapel there : Poole to Madam Thornhill; Caley-hall, to Mr. Benjamin Atkinson of Leeds ; and Cookridge to my honoured and dear " friend Thomas Kirk, Esq. F.R.S. whose wood there has the most noble and curious walks, containing above three hundred views, that ever I beheld. I had almost forgot what is most in view of all the places, being just at the foot of the Cheven, vis. the market town of Otley, which belongs to my Lord Archbishop of York, who has power to appoint Justices of the Peace for that Liberty, which also comprehends the whole parish of Otley, Cawood, and Wistow. From this top of Cheven, where we had this noble prospect, we descended to Guiseley, a country vill, but valuable living, worth 300/. per annum, but the presentation now controverted between Sir Nicholas Sherburn (a Popish recusant) and Trinity College, Mr. Hitch and Dean of York. Upon the church steeple is a monument for John Myers, the memorable parish-clerk there for fifty-four years, yet was quite outdone by the good old Mr. Moore, who was minister there sixty-three years. Thence, leaving on the left hand Esholt, (perhaps from Ash and Holt, wood) formerly a nunnery, now one of the seats of Walter Calverley, of Calverley, Esq. a worthy gentleman, and honour to that very ancient famliy, we came to Hawksworth, where we dined with the ingenious Sir Walter Hawksworth, who is making pleasant alterations and additions to that ancient seat and gardens, &c. ; he entertained us agreeably with Roman histories, &c. wherein he is well versed, and accompanied us several miles in his own demesnes; inter alia, he showed us a monumental heap of stones, in memory of three Scotch boys slain there by lightning, in his grandfather's, Sir Richard Hawksworth's time, as an old man attested to Sir Walter, who being then twelve years of age helped to lead the stones. We left Baildon on the left hand, anciently the seat of a family of that name, now of Mr. Thompson of Marston, who married the heiress of that accomplished gentleman, Bradwardine Tindal, of Brotherton, Esq. We rode through part of the populous parish of Bingley, in which are the seats of Mr. Benson of Wrenthorp, near Wakefield, who is also Lord of the manor of Bingley; Mr. Farrand, a Justice of Peace; Rishworth of Mr. ...... Thence through Morton to Ridlesden, the seat of Mr. Edmund Starkie, where we parted with the pleasant and populous Wapentake of Skireake, and having passed the river Aire, we entered upon Staincliffe and lodged at Kighley, anciently the seat of a famous family of the same name, of whom Sir Henry Kighley lies buried in the church, but the date of his death not legible ; one of the heiresses was married to the Lord Cavendish; and the Duke of Devonshire is the patron of the living, reputed worth 150/, per annum. We lodged with the modest good parson Mr. Gale, who has made some curious mathematical instruments, and drawn some good figures with Indian ink, being an ingenious and obliging person.
Sept. 1. Retired, but alas ! too frequently prevented
in the evenings for want of convenient privacy upon journeys. Had good
Mr. Gale's company about two miles; he showed us a free school lately
erected by .... of Kighley, now living, who will settle the whole of
his estate upon it at death. We rode about five miles over the hills
in Kighley parish, till we entered Lancashire, at a heap of stones as
a boundary ; having, on the left hand, Haworth, a church or chapel within
the vicarage of Bradford, though at so great a distance as the skirts
of Lancashire ; where nothing appears for many miles but hills and rivulets
descending to the dales ; and here it was observable that in a very
small distance, the heads of rivers and springs we passed at the height
of this mountainous tract parted to the two contrary seas, some to the
East, others to the West Sea. Upon the height of the mountain stands
Camil Cross, which we left upon the right hand, designing for Burnley
; but after we had left the lime-kilns below, and ascended a steep and
dangerous precipice, the road dwindled away upon an ugly boggy mountain,
where we wandered in sight of distant houses, to which we could find
no road. At length, through the enclosures, having come at one, we were
surprised to find that, though a large house and substantial people,
(bringing us a large silver tankard of ale) yet had no horse-road to
the market town; but pulling down part of a dry wall, we passed through
his and his neighbour's grounds till we recovered, a blind lane, and
rode through a continued thicket, several times passing the beck, till
at length we met a more open road. We had a view of Emmet, a handsome
seat lately sold by a gentleman of that sirname, near to the market
town of Coin, which I am apt to think was a Roman station, and very
probably their Colunium, as Mr. Hargraves has it from a curious itinerary
of our late learned Dean Gale's, and Dr. Leigh's objections are not
convincing to me. I was at a loss for Mr. Blakey, (who married my old
friend Mr. Brearcliffe's daughter) who were enquiring for me at Leeds,
when I was for them at Coin; but Mr. Tatham, the minister, gave me satisfaction
in many things. I transcribed some old inscriptions in the church, and
first observed a large cross of five deep steps round it in the church-yard;
where I.H.S. with crosses are upon several modern grave-stones. But
I was best pleased with his account of Caster Cliff, about a mile from
Coin, where is a regular camp visible to this day, and the " Caster"
is a sufficient evidence of its Roman antiquity. After dinner, we rode
through Burnley, where was another cross in the church-yard, but with
the addition of a new stately cross erected above the steps. We were
now near what we had seen in Yorkshire, Pendle Hill, one of the most
eminent hills in our Appenine, but we had the favour to see it without
its cloudy cap, so that we had a clear prospect of Houghton Tower near
Preston ; but we stayed not at Burnley, hastening to Townley, where
we were very kindly received by that famous mathematician and eminent
virtuoso, Richard Townley, Esq. and his brother Charles, (the Governor)
my old correspondent; had also the converse of Mr. Trafford, of Trafford,
Dr. Prescot, &c.
2. Then viewing the mathematical curiosities of Mr. Townley, particularly that for observing the quantity of rain that falls there, having thoughts of doing the like at home, but am discouraged with the charge and tediousness : the chariot of his own contrivance, to pass over those mountainous tracts of stones, &c. is very curious; as also a dial in the garden, where are also great plenty of very fine firs, which they have learnt to propagate by slips; he showed us also Mr. Adams's curious instrument, a vast large brass quadrant, that he used when he surveyed England and made his curious map. But I was best pleased with the collection of original letters that passed through Mr. Christopher Townley, the antiquary's contrivance, between Mr. Gascoigne, of Yorkshire, and Mr. Crabtree and Mr. Horrax of Lancashire, whereby it plainly appears that the said Mr. Gascoigne, in the reign of King Charles I. was the first and genuine author of the invention of dividing a foot into many thousand parts for mathematical purposes, which Monsieur Auzout values himself as the supposed first inventor of in the present age.* We saw also some ancient manuscripts in his library, and several curious modern prints, &c. he bought in his travels at Rome, &c, : but could not find the old writings of the Abbots of Kirkstal, nor procure King James II.'s coronation medal. Mr. Charles Townley showed me some curiosities in his apartment, and presented me with a MS. catalogue of the Irish nobility, with their arms in colours, &c. The rest of the day was spent there (after we had viewed the new apartments in this college, or castle-like house,) in converse with the three brothers, Mr. Trafford, and other strangers, in the garden-house, in the midst of the fish-pond in the garden, except that I stole a little time to peep into some volumes of Mr. Christopher Townley's, MSS. of pedigrees, whence I transcribed that of the Lang-tons. Mr. Townley's own pedigree upon skins of parchment, with the matches, &c. blazoned, and the old short deeds inserted, is most noble and curious, and attested by the King-of-Arms, being drawn from original writings, &c.; and was proposed as an exemplar by Dr. Cuerden, in his designed Brigantia Lancastriensis, which is feared will now perish by the author's death.*
3. Having taken leave of the obliging and ingenious family at Townley, we returned by Burnley, and thence, in our way to Padjam or Padingharn, we had a distant prospect of Hapton Tower, which stands melancholy upon the mountains on the right-hand, and Townley Royal on the left. We stepped aside to see the Lady Shuttleworth's turretted house at Gawthorp. Thence by Altham church, to which only one house in view, though more afterwards at a distance, through Dunkenhalgh, which has nothing remarkable but the hall of Mr. Walmesley, which seems considerable, but like most seats of the gentry in these parts, has so many out-buildings before it, as spoils the prospect. Thence to Blackburn, a market-town, which gives name to the whole hundred, the third of the six in Lancashire ; here, while the dinner was preparing, we viewed the church and town, but found nothing remarkable as to the modern state: of old, William the Conqueror gave Blackburn shire to the Ilbert de Lacy, grandfather to Henry Lacy, who built Kirkstal Abbey, anno 1159. Thence by Houghton-tower, which gives name and habitation to an eminent and ancient family ; Sir Charles Houghton is the present possessor ; its situation is remarkable, being upon a very steep hill, almost a precipice on three sides, and so high that it is seen at many miles distance. Then through Wal-ton, which seems to have been a Roman station, and where we are told the noted Kelly* was born, but is now chiefly famous for the manufacture of linen-cloth : we saw vast quantities of yarn whiting. In the vale we saw another good house that belongs to a younger branch of the family of Floughton Tower. We passed the river Ribble (which rises in the Yorkshire hills) to Preston, which was now extremely crowded with the gentry as well as commonalty, from all parts to the Jubilee, as we call it, but more rightly the Guild: we were too late to see the formalities, (the several companies in their order, attending the Mayor, &c. to church; and thence after sermon, to the Guild-house, to the feast, &c.) at the opening of the Guild, but were in time enough for the appendices, the pageant, &c. at the bringing in the harvest, ushered in by two gladiators in armour, on horseback, &c. The Queen discharged her part well, but the King was too effeminate. I was best pleased with a good providence that attended a fellow clad with bears' skins, &c., who running amongst the mob in the Low-street, by the churchyard, happily chased them away just before the wall fell, whereby their lives were saved. Had afterwards the company of several Yorkshire and Lancashire justices, with whom went to see the posture-master, who not only performed several uncommon feats of activity, but put his body instantly into so strange and mis-shapen postures, as are scarce credible, &c. Disturbed with the music, &c., that got little rest till three in the morning.
4. Morning, retired, &c. ; then walked with my dear friend, Mr.
Kirk, to view the town, wherein are several very good houses, but none
so stately as that where the Duke of Hamilton usually resides, who is
now abroad; but there was one Mr. Hyde, a very proper gentleman, said
to be the Queen's cousin. We after went to the top of an adjoining hill,
where we had a distant prospect of the sea ; but the channel up to the
town is broad and shallow, that they have little commerce that way,
and no merchants or manufacture, the town chiefly depending upon the
quill; here being kept all the Courts relating to the County Palatine
of Lancaster, as the Court of Chancery. We went to the Town-hall, where
the Mayor showed us their book of privileges, and transcript of their
charters for the Guild, (and inspeximus's), as old as Henry I. as I
remember. They made us a compliment of our freedom, but we thought ourselves
more free without it. An alderman attended us to the Guild-house, where
we were treated at a banquet and choice wines.
We then walked to the fields to an eminency lately purchased by the
town, where is a very curious walk and delicate prospect; then went
to view the church, but found no inscriptions either for the family
of the Houghtons (though Sir Richard was buried there,) nor good Mr.
Isaac Ambrose. Dined at Lawyer Starkey's with Justice Parker, and much
good company. Afterwards at tavern involved in more ; to avoid inconveniences,
Mr. Kirk and I went with the ladies to a play; which I thought a dull,
insipid thing, though the actors from London pretended to something
extraordinary, but I was the better pleased to meet with no temptation
there.
5. Morning, rose by five, having got little rest ; the music and Lancashire bag-pipes having continued the whole night at it, were now enquiring for beds. From Preston we rode through some country villages in Anderness, or Amounderness, to Rib-chester, to view the antiquities of that ancient Roman station; had the kind assistance of Mr. Hargraves, the minister, who, having showed us the church and adjoining library over the porch, lately given by Mr. Hayhurst of that town ; went with me to the adjoining Anchor-hill, where are frequently found nails and rings belonging to boats to pass the adjacent river Ribble; we then went to the shore, picked up some fragments of urns, &c. there ; found CAES upon the pillar Dr. Leigh mentions as without inscription ; found another inscription in the wall of a house, which the Dr. supposes an altar to Caligula (because he found CA upon it, which is only part of CAE for Caesar,) but I conclude to have been a funeral monument; for though the inscription t is imperfect, and we also differ in the reading, yet both have vix upon it. I brought thence one of the iron nails and fragments of different coloured urns, one of a whiter clay than ever I had seen any, and tiles, with scores or lines upon them, different from what I had before; the place seems to have been eminent amongst the Christian Saxons; a chapel, now one of the side isles of the church, has a place for a bell to hang in it, quite distinct from the modern belfry ; fragments of Roman vessels are found even in the churchyard, which was probably a camp or place for devotion or sacrifice. Langrig, Langridge Chapel, &c. in these parts, seem to have been denominated from their situation near the Roman road. Upon Anchor-hill we had a prospect of Osbaldston, the seat of an ancient family of that name, the present heir thereof, with other Lancashire gentlemen, justices, parliament-men, &c. I had the names of in my travelling album at Preston, which beautiful town is said to have risen out of the ruins of Ribchester. Upon the road we had a distant prospect of Browsholm, the seat of Justice Parker, who was very obliging at the Guild ; gave us a letter of recommendation to Ribchester; and rode close by Sir Nicholas Sherburn's pleasant seat at Stonyhurst, which is deservedly esteemed one of the best houses in Lancashire. I was extremely desirous to have called to see the Roman coins (of which he has a vast quantity) lately found within his territories at Chippin, but there were some reasons to believe we should not be grateful to him, who is reputed a stiff Papist, and Mr. Kirk setting out a militia horse for him. We passed by Mitton, seated near the confluence of Ribble and Holder, which belongs to our countryman, Sir Walter Hawksworth, of Hawksworth, through Clithero ; had a view of the ancient castle built by the Lacys, of which very little is now remaining, but had not time to see the church, though desirous for Dr. Webster's sake, who has a very odd epitaph there ; besides his Display of Witchcraft, he published Metallographia (dedicated to Prince Rupert), Ex-amen Academiarum, several sermons preached at Alhallows, Lombard-street, and a little piece called his Saints' Guide, as informed by a minister who married his widow. We had a distant prospect of Waddington, where Mr. Parker, of Carlton, has erected an hospital; and of Waddaw, a very pleasant seat (with some walks in the wood) of the late Mr. Wilkinson, now of Mr. Weddell, of Bradford or London. It was almost dark before we reached Downham, so that I could procure none of the diamonds there found; and now, having happily attained Old Yorkshire, I resigned my government to my fellow-traveller, who is now to have it with a continuendo, not as this afternoon, for a few hours as we passed in and out the indented skirts of the two counties ; but this joy was somewhat allayed with the dark evening, in which it was uncomfortable travelling the Craven hills; but having reached Newbiggin, we met with a very kind reception from Mr. Lister (my cousin Lodge, the ingenious artist's nephew) and his Lady, the third of the three sisters, Mrs. Parker, of Browsholm, and our neighbour, Mrs. Ashton, being the other two, all discreet and accomplished gentlewomen.*
6. Die Dom. Left this pleasant seat, and rode to church at Carlton
: in our way we passed through Gisburn, where nothing worthy notice
but Justice Marsden's house, whose co-heiresses are married to Colonel
Pudsey, Parliament man for Clithero, and late High Sheriff of the county,
and to Mr. ———. Thence, through Marstons ambo and
Broughton to Carlton, just as ringing in. The minister made a very good
sermon, though almost half of it Latin sentences; but I was more than
ordinarily affected with the prayers, blessed be God ! found my heart
enlarged in his service, and concerned that any part of his day should
be spent in travel, but besides my
too strong desires to be at home, for fear my dear or children should
not be well, I thought there was less danger therein than in the excessive
kindness, &c. (manifested by too great plenty of wine, &c.)
of our hospitable friend. We dined at good Mr. Parker's, who has erected
an hospital at Wad-dington, in Yorkshire, for ten widows, and a chaplain
to read prayers to them forenoon and after, -and endowed it already
with 50/. per annum, which, he told me, he designs to increase the salary
of at his death : they have already received 501. per annum for several
years, agreeable to his motto in my album, " bis dat qui cito dat."
After dinner, we saw a few of his curiosities, particularly the pedigree
of King James from Adam, with the pretended coats of arms; and a large
silver seal, for the approbation of ministers in the late times; but
the key of his cabinet of coins (formerly Mr. Brearcliffe's, of Halifax)
could not be found. Afternoon, we rode through the skirts of Skipton,
over Rumbals Moor, where we had a fair prospect of Skipton, with the
church, castle, and park, (belonging to the Earl of Thanet,) which has
several pleasant walks in it; upon the heights we had a distinct prospect
of Bolton Abbey, Bethmesley, &c. We left Wingate Nick, whence we
have our largest millstones, on the right hand, as also Rough Robbins,
(though his name is Will.) who would be thought a noted astrologer;
but, I believe, by my friend's account of him, is no conjurer. I passed
Long Addingham patiently enough, but was concerned that I had not a
convenient time to view the antiquities of the Roman Olicana; the nymph
Verbeia was so surly, we durst not pass her without the help of the
bridge, that we had a great deal of rough way along her banks, which
made us late ere we reached Denton Hall, but were kindly received by
my Lord Fairfax and his good family; and I was glad to observe the continuance
of so religious an order in the family, all the servants, &c. being
called in to daily prayers.
7. Morning, retired, &c. then viewing the house (wherein my Lord is making several alterations, which are both noble and convenient) and gardens, the hawks, horses, brood-mares, and foals, (for four of which 80/. has been refused;) but I was best pleased in the old library, for which my Lord is preparing a new place, &c. My Lord very kindly bestowed upon me an original letter of Prince Rupert's, and other valuable autographa of Horace Lord Vere and his pious lady, Bishops Hutton, Wickham, Matthew, (concerning the Hampton Court conference,) from the Earls of Huntingdon, Newcastle, Essex, (his Instructions about the war, &c.) commissioners of both kingdoms, &c. with the finest medal I have of King Charles the Second, most accurately performed by Simons, the famous artist; and, after all, would oblige us to stay another night there, when the same pious order, family called into prayers.
8. Morning, ut prius, observed the solid stone, wherein, when sawed asunder, was found a living toad, as large as to fill the whole cavity in the middle, a chimney-piece of Yorkshire marble, which admits a good polish, and looks very well. My Lord very kindly rode with us part of the way, and showed us four of his oxen, that are the largest, finest beasts that ever I beheld. The waters were yet out, that we rode through Askwith, and by Mr. Vavasour's, of Weston, which is a very noble building, and seems to have fine gardens, &c. and New-hall, which looks well, over the bridge to Otley, where the first thing I observed, was the ruins of the Archbishop of York's palace there; then a modern school, founded " by gift," as the front tells us; but, I suppose, of many private benefactors, because none named. In the church are some monuments for the ancient families in these parts ; the stateliest is the Right Honourable Thomas Lord Fairfax, the first Baron of the family, and a very memorable person ; near which is a' pretty little one for Mr. Fawkes, which I transcribed; an ancient tomb of the Dyneleys, (Sir Robert, if I mistake not,) the Lindleys of Lindley, now succeeded by the Palmes's, and some modern for the Barkers, wherein a slender herald will find the mistake in placing the mother's coat instead of the father's in a lozenge for a maiden daughter : upon the capital of a pillar was cut Sir Simon Ward's cross, once a most famous knight in these parts, now scarce remembered ; sic transit gloria mundi, &c. We mounted the mighty Cheven, and rode to Rawden, once the seat of an ancient family of that sirname, of which the famous Sir George Rawden mentioned in my notes in the late edition of the Britannia, and of which family there is yet a Baronet in Ireland, now of a memorable old gentleman, Henry Layton, Esq. a good historian and accomplished gentleman, who has printed many tracts against pluralities : his observations about money and coin in general, but especially those of England, 4to. 1697, which are curious, and show much reading in his younger years, and a strong memory in his elder, now he is blind ; but must always own my dissent from his heterodox notions of the soul's sleeping with the body till the resurrection, being abundantly satisfied in rny own conscience, from Scripture and reason, that the soul of man is abundantly capable of subsisting and acting in a state of separation from the body. Lord, prevent the growth of this error, and preserve especially the young gentry in these parts from the contagion thereof. This ought to be added in behalf of the ingenious, and, in other respects, religious old gentleman, that he lives piously under the power of a practical belief of the Resurrection at the great day of judgment, &c. After dinner, and discourse with Mr. Layton and his two nephews, my dear friend and Mr. Robinson, returned through the pleasant walks in his wood to Cookridge, having in all our journey not travelled one mile twice over, except that betwixt Townley and Burnley, in Lancaster, where there was no other road. I stayed little there, hasting home to my dear wife and children, whom I found very well, blessed be the God of all our mercies ! I desire particularly to bless my gracious Protector, for preserving my dear friend and self upon our journeys, and bringing us comfortably to our respective habitations. Oh, that we may live more and more to the praise and glory of his great name !
12. Throng in getting in the Roman monuments, lately dug up near Adle mill, and brought me in two carts, the gift of the ingenious and obliging Cyril Arthington, Esq. ; getting them into the library, and preparing place for them.
17. Received a visit from Mr. Barlow, of Middle-thorp, near York, which very curious house he built after the Italian mode he had observed in his travels to Rome ; showing the collection of Roman coins, which, he says, are rare to be got in Italy, that are genuine.
22. With Mr. Dwyer at Town-end; stayed full late ; some of the company coming late from the famous horse-race at Bramham Moor, the Earl of Carlisle (of Hinderskelf Castle, in the North Riding,) won the gold cup of 100/. value, that her Majesty appointed for that end.
25. Concluded Mr. Calamy's Abridgment of Mr. Baxter's Life, with additions,
wherein are many things curious and agreeable, especially the moderate
characters and memoirs of some eminently pious and
learned divines, and some arguments, especially relating to private
persons' stated communion with the Church of England, that in my poor
judgment are not conclusive ; for, though he holds occasional communion
not only lawful but expedient, and, in some cases, absolutely necessary,
yet would deny the other; his deserved praise of the Bishop of Salisbury,
(to whom I am particularly obliged for the respects his Lordship has
showed me,) will, I fear, make some rage the more against him. What
a deplorable case are we reduced to, that so many attempts for reformation
[comprehension] have been unsuccessful, particularly that most famous
in the beginning of the late reign, 1689, when so many incomparable
persons, of primitive candour and piety, were concerned therein, of
which my Lord Archbishop of York has spoke to me with deep concern ;
for which disappointment all good Christians have the deeper cause of
sorrow, because we are positively told (page 655,) that in all probability
it would have brought in two-thirds of the Dissenters in England. Lord,
send thy holy and peaceable Spirit to influence the hearts of such as
have power in their hands, to heal our piteous breaches in thy due time
!
26. Walked with Mr. Fairfax, per Kirkstal Abbey ; stayed a little to view the stately ruins; per the forge, pleasantly along the bank of the river, which is very well wooded on both sides; per New-ley-bridge, to Mr. Pollard's, at New Lathes, to visit Madam Rawden, of Rawden, sister to the famous Sir George Rawden, who, being in England at the beginning of the Irish massacre, 1641, hasted, through Scotland, to that desolate country, whence they met whole multitudes of poor naked men and women : when he arrived at Lisnegarry, (now Lis-burn,) he found but forty-seven muskets in the whole town, and but little powder, &c., but a poor distressed people, who met him with their prayers and tears, and resolution to sell their lives at the dearest rate they could, even the women, with spits and forks ; but before he could get matters in so good order as he designed, the cruel cut-throats, under the command of Sir Philim O'Neale, came (the very next morning, as I remember) to burn that town and massacre the inhabitants, as they had done thousands of poor Protestants elsewhere, where, meeting unexpectedly with so brisk an opposition, they were the more enraged, crying, George Rawden sure was got from England ; and afterwards, when his horse being shot under him, he was dismounted, they set up a terrible shout, hoping he had been slain ; their little ammunition being almost spent, he dispatched away an express, and got a small supply of powder, (from Belfast, as I remember,) which happily arrived in their extremity, the very first shot of which made fresh havoc amongst the Irish, and so animated these poor Protestants, that with less than 200, in which were but forty-seven muskets, he repulsed Sir Philim O'Neale, at the head of an army of those cruel rebels, of about 7,000 strong, who never appeared again in any considerable body in those parts of Ireland, which were thus miraculously saved by this worthy gentleman, who was born here at Rawden, whose picture this lady (who is the last of the family in these parts, but there is a Baronet, his grandson, in Ireland) presented me with, &c. She told me this story, the substance of which is related also by Bishop ————, in the funeral sermon for another of our famous countrymen, Archbishop Margetson, who was born at Drighlington, where he has built and endowed a free school, &c. This good old lady (who is above eighty-one years of age,) entertained us pleasantly with these discourses. Mr. Pollard also showed me the Abbot of Kirkstal's stirrups, which are prodigiously great, and of a very antique form. We returned along the river side, and had a very pleasant walk, blessed be God for all mercies !
29. After dinner with the Lords of Manor ; was at the Court, where
a new Mayor and common councilman were chosen. I was glad a proud haughty
man was prevented, and our good Vicar's brother elected. Received a
kind visit from my dear friend, Mr. Kirk, with whom and Sir Walter Hawks-worth,
at the Mayor's treat till past ten.
Oct. 2. Received a kind visit from Mr. Skipper, who brought my Lord
Archbishop's son, to be educated at our school under good Mr. Dwyer,
who has also the Lord Mayor of York's son.
Nov. 5. Walked to Adle Church, transcribed Esquire
Arthington's epitaph, &c. before prayers, and after walked to the
mill; had honest J. R's. company in viewing the vestigia of the lately
discovered Roman town, which seems to have been considerable by the
remains of the aquaeduct, fragments of pillars, and monuments, &c.
with the scars of different coloured urns, some even of the Coraline.
It seems to have perished in the wars betwixt the Britons and Romans
in some of the insurrections of the natives ; we measured the camp at
the town end, which is about five chains (one hundred yards) on each
of the four sides ; the agger is yet twenty-two feet high, and each
chain is twenty-two yards long, but we could not be so accurate as I
wished by reason of the extremity of the season, hasting to the mill
for shelter. Afterwards, walked with Mr. Marsh to Cookridge, because
Mr. Kirk had left my Lord Fairfax, &c. to meet me, and consequently,
obliged to stay all night with my good friend, in the drawing of whose
pedigree from writings and his own remarks, we found that my grandmother
Thoresby's mother, and his grandfather's (of both his names) father,
were brother and sister, Gilbert and Frances Kirk, son and daughter
of Thomas Kirk, of Buslinthorpe, whose elder brother Gilbert was the
first of Cookridge, where he purchased the estate now in the possession
of my said dear friend, for dying without issue, he gave his estate
there to his nephew Gilbert, proavus to the present Justice, and gave
a legacy of 267. 13s. 4d. to the said Frances, my pro-avia, &c.
6. Got an opportunity of retirement, which I had not, or improved not last night. Lord pardon ! Afterwards, transcribing ditto remarks, and drawing a pedigree of the family; then rode to visit Mr. Boulter, of Gawthorp Hall; in our way viewed the remains of the Roman rig, which from the said lately discovered town and camp, comes directly through Mr. Kirk's ground at Cookridge, or Cuckerigge, as it is writ in the letters patent, &c., which I am apt to believe, received its denomination from the said Roman rig that passeth through it, near one Driver's farm, in which was dug up an old stone with an inscription manifestly Roman, by the letters remaining as I M ... but so obliterated, as not to make out the sense of it : Mr. Kirk has the original. Thence over Blackhill, through Eccop and Werdley Hollins, to Stank (from Stagnum), where is an old camp, to Gawthorp Hall; enjoyed Mr. Boulter's company till towards evening ; then returned to Cookridge, where lay all night with ditto friend; guilty of same omission.
7. Perusing Archbishop Cranmer's Letters Patent from King Edward VI., and transcribing what relating to the parish of Leeds, which kept me there till noon, as stress of weather after dinner did till almost night, that rode home ; found all well, blessed be God !
30. Received a visit from the ingenious Mr, Mauleverer,* who lent me the pedigree of that ancient family, of which one branch flourished at Potter Newton, in this parish, for several generations; he presented me his curious treatise, Europa Libera, which being communicated in MS. to a prime Minister of State (my Lord H—x.) was not only approved of by him, but in many particulars put in practice, though under the notion of his own project, and seems to have had an influence upon our happy success at Vigo, &c.
Dec. 9. Got not to church ; read Mr. Mauleverer's Europa
Libera, which seems to me, not only honestly designed for the public
good, but to be very well performed, and is thought by more competent
judges than I pretend to be in state affairs, to have had a happy influence
upon our good success in respect of the Spanish plate fleet, and the
attempt at Vigo, and 'tis now said, that the Duke of Orinond is again
going out with the fleet upon some great enterprise that is yet kept
secret, but perhaps to attempt some place in the Indies to gain possession
of some of the American mines, to which the English are at liberty by
the sixth article of the Alliance, which was procured some months after
the first edition of this treatise, which had before that been communicated
to, and approved by, several of our good ministers of state,
11. Transcribing Scotch journal of my dear friend, Mr. Kirk ; concluded Bishop Burnet's most excellent Pastoral Care, wherewith extremely pleased, What a glorious Church should we have if it was duly practised!
23. With Mr. Blythman about house-letting; he told me a remarkable deliverance the Duke of Leeds had in his childhood : when his father, being Vice-President of the King's Council in the north, lived at the Manor-house at York, the nurse having dressed the child sent him after his brother to the schoolmaster, who taught them in an apartment of the said manor-house ; as he was going through a great room he met with a little cat, and fell a playing with it instead of going into the school, which else had probably been as fatal to him as it was to his elder brother, who was slain at that very juncture by the fall of the roof, which crushed down the room where they were, being blown down in a storm that then happened, by which accident this eminent statesman was preserved.
24. Writing for Mr. Mauleverer ; after to visit ditto ingenious gentleman ; presented him with a correct pedigree of that ancient family, partly from his own, partly from Mr. Hopkinson's MS. ; he showed me the autograph of his brother John (late Fellow of Magdalen College, Cambridge) in a pocket-book, wherein he had recorded his remarkable dream of his being wounded in the head by the fall of part of the roof of a house as he walked the streets, which shortly after came to pass, anno 1694.