A. D. 1682.
Jan. 1. In the morning with several friends consulting
; several of the Spiritual Court men being come to town : but it pleased
God to prevent our fears, &c.
10. Somewhat discouraged in mind, and troubled about concerns in this
world, for want of a way of trade; which is so frequently a trouble
to me, that I am ready to think it is the hand of God to keep me humble.
13. Morning writing of martyrs about the latter end of Henry the Eighth.
Was all day writing, and much satisfied till evening, when sent for
to some company, Mr. Vandro, the Dutch painter, &c. though stayed
not long, yet not the best employed.
24. With others, of better account than myself, to see a wonderful sight,
a native Irishman, Edmund Mallory, (of whom see Dr. Plot's Staffordshire,
p. 294,) born about twenty miles from Dublin, about sixteen years old,
two yards and a half tall, wanting about two inches, and all parts proportionable,
except legs, which were rather too slender for so vast a body. Some
friends came home with me, and we sat up rather too late.
February 8. Writing of Heraldry till noon, then at
Mrs. Scarborough's till evening, observing the way of casting waxen
images.
11. Forenoon casting some medals and figures in plaster, with good success;
but afternoon not spent so innocently, being called for by Mr. E. H.
and though not in bad company, yet rather too free. Rise in the night
to see the noted eclipse of the moon, reminding me of that text wherein
the sun's being turned to darkness, and the moon into blood, (and so
it seemed to be in the midst of this dark eclipse,) are recorded.
13. Forenoon employed chiefly in cementing the broken pieces of a large,
ancient figure of Seneca's head, that worthy philosopher: after, writing
of some pedigrees,
23. Up about four, transcribing the Earl of Northumberland's funeral
sermon till day, most of which was spent in drawing the pictures of
Cardinal Wol-sey and Queen Catharine Dowager, from Burnet's History,
&c.
25. Having rested badly, lay longer than ordinary ; most of the day
drawing in Indian ink the effigies of Queen Ann Bullen, Bishop Fisher,
and Dr. Collet; was mightily ashamed of myself, when I perused the pious
and incomparable Lord Harrington's life; who, though a courtier, and
in the prime of his days, was a most admirable example of true piety.
28. Most of the day spent in company at the marriage of Mrs. Mary Sykes
with Mr. Thomas Rayner. Evening, sat up rather too late with young company.
March 1. Morning, when Mr. Sykes had prayed well with
the family, the old gentlewoman, a Quaker, made a very seasonable exhortation
to rejoice in the Lord, and that Satan might not get advantage by our
carnal mirth; the more proper being in her son's private house, (though
a vast company of men and women,) and upon this occasion; else I am
taught a woman's duty is rather to learn in silence than teach in public;
afterwards, officiated as a servitor, and employed in like affairs not
only the day, but too much of the night.
9. Morning reading; then cleansing the Misery of War, and other pictures,
and employed about such affairs till five; then worse employed, though
not in bad company, till pretty late.
24. Up at five, writing much of that prudent, just, pious, and valorous
Prince, Algernon, Earl of Northumberland; then about pictures, and attending
relations till four ; then sent for by Mr. I. of Lynn, to the Talbot;
stayed too late, and was much troubled to see the besottedness of some
persons there before.
25. Lay sluggishly till almost seven ; sent for immediately to Mrs,
S. to compose some differences betwixt two neighbours; employed there
about it not in the morning only, but too late at night, even till twelve;
the afternoon was spent with friends, &c.
27. Lay too long, and was then immediately called out to make peace
betwixt two neighbours, of different nations, which, with other help,
was at last effected; was then at the funeral of honest Mr. Lever, a
sound, orthodox, and ingenious man. After dinner attending cousins,
mostly at uncle M. I.'s. Alas ! how much of the short time I have to
remain in this tabernacle of clay am I constrained thus to spend in
vanity. Evening also spent in the like offices.
28. So too much of this day, especially the afternoon, (when with them
to see the activity of a tumbler on the stage,) spent in the like waste
work, which somewhat disordered me; for, alas! what answer can I make
for all this lost time!
April 5. Forenoon with cousin Thoresbys, of Sykehouse,
who, notwithstanding former unkind-nesses, (endeavours to deprive me
of the estate in the north) have been very welcome in their present
straits to my house, but have exceedingly straitened me for time about
better things, and made me lose much of that precious commodity in every
respect. After their departure, was at Mr. B. D.'s, and at uncle M.
I.'s, which took up most of the afternoon, as the sight of some baboons,
bear, and wolf did the evening.
6. Was the whole day entirely at the new garden, by the water, overseeing
workfolk, and reading Sir William Waller's Divine Meditations, which
I thought exceedingly sweet and agreeable, especially his content in
his study, books, and a solitary life. But, Lord! teach me, as the holy
author desires, so to study other men's works, as not to neglect rny
own good : take me off from the curiosity of knowing only to know, from
the vanity of knowing only to be known, and from the folly of pretending
to know more than I do know, and let it be my wisdom to study to know
thee, who art life eternal. Afternoon was much afflicted with what I
heard of the foolish actions and wicked words of a near relation, so
near and dear to me that it wounded me to the very heart.
17. Rode with aunt Idle to Tong, to procure flowers for the new garden,
of the noted florist there; but was severely wet, and not without danger
in passing a small rivulet prodigiously risen with the thunder-showers,
but got well home.
18. Up before four, writing, then setting ditto roots till about six,
then rode to York with sister. Had company of several relations of Mrs.
Hickson, (where left her) that somewhat mitigated the trouble of the
rainy journey.
19. Up pretty early, in order to a Hull journey, which was prevented
by the wetness of the season. Spent the forenoon in viewing the Minster
monuments. After, in visits with ditto company.
20. Forenoon abroad, viewing the Tower with the armoury for about 3000
men, the dungeon, &c. with a large crocodile (about four yards long).
26. Rose not early this morning; till ten collecting for Mr. Sharp,
who would not be prevented by the uncomfortableness of the season, nor
danger of the floods, but came to do good.
May 5. Rode to Snidall. Paid Aunt the full of this
year's gratuity. Went on to Pontefract; found an unexpected occasion
to manifest charity to Uncle Captain Thoresby's widow, now ruined through
the extravagance of her son. Oh, how sadly is this once flourishing
family now changed, since my grandfather (not to mention former ages,
when our ancestors lived at, and were Lords of Thoresby, Sedbar, Dent,
&c.) then chief magistrate, with his four sons and their wives,
were in their meridian splendour. Dr. Johnston being out of town, returned
the sooner with Mr. E. H.; but stayed too late at his house.
6. Lay too long in the morning. After, taking leave of Alderman Jackson,
of Carlisle, which lost most of the forenoon; as some little accounts
and discourse with my good old servant, Judith, who is about altering
her condition, did the after. Abroad till after seven ; then reading
in Mr. Young's Christian Library.
13. Forenoon, with Cousin W. and advising with Mr. B. D.; then writing
till noon. Afternoon, visiting Aunt Lucy, but spent most of it in reading
the Apology for Nonconformists, in my poor judgment well done; in answer
to the High Tories, that are for closing with the Papists, rather than
Protestant Dissenters.
June 1. Morning, writing letters; then at the marriage
of Nehemiah Cloudesley by old Mr. Armi-tage. Discoursing him concerning
old Mr. Saxton :* except an hour or two in the afternoon, and about
as much in the evening, that I was with Mr. Illing-worth. Spent the
whole day at the wedding house, and most of the night, it being too
late ere I could get away.
2. Up again before three, in preparation for a Journey with ditto Mr.
Illingworth. Was much Satisfied with his learned discourses, and many
remarkable stories concerning almost all places we travelled through,
particularly concerning the last of the family of the Elands, of Eland,
slain at Both-omley Wood, by the children of those knights he had before
barbarously murdered when High Sheriff. Upon the height of Blackstone-edge,
we left Yorkshire, and had a pleasant prospect of Lancashire in a fruitful
vale below, where stands Littleborrow, a country town, and, somewhat
beyond, Cleghall on the one hand, and Howard on the other, the ancient
seat of the famous family of that name. Not far from Rochdale, a fair
market town, is Hopwood-hall, the seat of the famous Justice Hopwood,
whose memory I exceedingly honour for the many good offices he performed
to the good old Lancashire Puritans, and the many remarkable passages
related of him by the ingenious Mr. Illingworth, who hath promised me
copies of many of his letters, wherein he gives very favourable characters
of the good old Nonconformist ministers, Midgeley Sen., Langley, &c.
to the Bishop. Thence by Middleton, where the church has a wooden steeple,
built almost like a dove-coat, but a living of.... per ann, and has
been in the name of the Ashtons since long before the Re~ formation,
Thence within view of the house where Ralph Brideoak, late Bishop of
Chichester, was born, to the famous town of Manchester, where
3. I was employed from morning to evening, observing the library and
college richly endowed for the maintenance of sixty blue coat boys,
by the eminent benefactor, Mr. Humphrey Chetharn, sheriff, eleventh
of Charles I. ; was also in Salford, and the Collegiate church, writing
the inscriptions from monuments of Huntingdon, the first, and Heyrick,
the last (and fourteenth) warden, from those of the Rad-cliffes, Howards,
&c., assisted by the ingenious Mr. James Illingworth, the worthy
President of Emanuel College, Cambridge.
4. Designed for the Morning Sermon but missed the beginning, which I
was more concerned for, because the latter part was so good ; then heard
Mr. Warden.
5. Morning, rose early, by three, or sooner, designing a journey to
Chester, though not so well furnished as I should, having consulted
neither Camden nor Fuller, not designing further than Manchester, near
unto which is seated Hulrn, the present habitation of Judge Moseley,
and not much distant Ordesal, the ancient seat of the warlike family
of the Radcliffes, now Colonel Birch's, and thence by the river Mersey
to Trafford, whence a family of great note has their name ; thence to
Bowden, in Cheshire, where I found in the church a stately monument
of the Breretons, (of which family Camden has a remarkable story of
some trees floating in Bagmere, only upon the death of the heirs), Warburtons
and Booths of Dunham, now deservedly honoured with the title of Lord
Delamere; as for the inscriptions, vid. my Collection of Epitaphs, p.
171. Upon the hill I had a fair prospect of the country ; Baggeleigh,
the ancient seat of the Baggeleighs, now Leighs of Baggeleigh; Rawston
church, where, as I was informed by Mr. Martindale, chaplain to the
Lord Delamere, is an ancient monument of a knight in armour, of the
Venables' (patrons of the living) which has been of great reputation
ever since the Norman Conquest, and the Leighs of High Leigh, another
ancient family : but the most noted in this age is the Booths of Dunham,
by reason of that famous knight, Sir George Booth, now Lord Delamere,
and not far off Henry Booth, Esq. a learned and pious gentleman. Thence
through a most pleasant vale abounding with wood and fruitful pastures,
which produces the famous Cheshire cheese, to Nor-wiche, a pretty market
town, in which pleasant vale Sir Robert Leicester's, a pretty seat,
is not to be omitted; thence through a delicate country to the famous
forest of Delamere, now honoured by giving honour to that worthy knight,
by the Chamber in the Forest, (some houses seated upon the height of
the hill and seen far off,) to Tarvin, whereabout we have a prospect
of Beeston Castle, about five miles off seated upon a high towering
hill, and seems to me not very unlike Stirling, or Maiden Castle, in
Edinburgh for the situation. It was built by the last Ra-nulph, Earl
of Chester, that ancient and famous city where I spent the rest of the
day, (except about two or three hours discourse with Dr. Bispham, the
ancient sub-dean of Chester and Alderman Floyd, about the antiquities
of the town) mostly in the churches of St. Werburgh, St. John Baptist,
and St. Mary, but met with a disappointment as to tombs of bishops ;
this being one of the bishoprics of the royal foundation by King Henry
VIII. there can be none of any great antiquity : of the modern bishops,
none are buried there but Dr. Hall and Dr. Bridge-man, (brother to the
famous Lord Keeper) late Bishop of the Isles, who dying about May, 1682,
was interred in St. Werburgh's, but as yet there is no monument or inscription.
Evening, I walked round the walls ; observed the situation of the city,
and had a prospect of Wales towards Flint; the walls are kept in excellent
repair by the Muringers.
6. Up pretty early writing; took a view of the Castle, in which is the
Hall for the Judges, inferior to none in England, that I have seen,
except Westminster. In St. Peter's church, I found a remarkable tomb
for the Offleys, great benefactors ; and in the pentis or town-house,
his picture, with Mr. Randall's, and Sir Thomas White's, with an account
of their pious gifts, and of Broughtons, from which pentis there is
a curious prospect into the four best streets, in all which, and indeed,
most of the city, we may pass through the rows in a stormy day without
the least rain or prejudice; it is a sort of building peculiar to this
city, the like they say not being to be seen in Europe again; they are
as walks chambered above, and cellared below, with shops mostly on both
sides. From this ancient city (though I could find few monuments of
antiquity in memory of the famous Earls of Chester) I departed about
ten o'clock, and rode through a very pleasant country, and over a remarkable
hill called Helsby Tor, (a Derbyshire word I think, for crag, or rock,)
to Frodsham, near which we have a most pleasant prospect of Rock Savage,
a stately house, formerly belonging to the Savages, and now to the Earl
of Rivers, on the one hand, and a delicate new building of Sir Willoughby
Aston's, on the other, with delicate gardens, &c,; seven miles further
stands Warrington, a pretty market town, upon the Mersey, in Lancashire,
whereof the Butlers were lords ; in memory of some of which family is
an ancient monument of a Knight in armour, and a modern white one for
Sir George Butler, slain in the wars, and his lady ; thence by Eccles,
where is a stately monument for another branch of the numerous family
of the Breretons, to Manchester.
7. Employed in observing the Earl of Derby's and Chetham's chapels in
Manchester Collegiate Church, walking abroad in the town, and taking
leave of Mr. Newcome, a worthy good man and pious divine.
8. Took leave of the learned and ingenious Mr. Illingworth, and of Manchester,
famous for the vast quantity of wares and commodities made there, whereof
I was most taken with their inkles, eighteen several pieces whereof
they can weave in the same loom. Got very well home with the other company.
19. At Mr. Scudamore's to see his collections of heraldry, wrhich merit
commendation.
30. After four at Mrs. R's. perusing her brother's, Mr. Lever's choice
collection of books. Thus one month more of my short pilgrimage is slipt
away never to be recalled.
July 1. Morning writing at Mr. Rooke's. After with
cousins F. and L at Ledston-hall, had the opportunity of discoursing
with Mr. Bean concerning some memoirs of the famous Sir John Lewys,
whose manuscript I have by me.
2. Die Dom. Mr. Kein had not only a well worded but serious affectionate
discourse concerning the last judgment. Mr. Sharp had a learned discourse
from Micah ii. 7. Doctrine, that the word of God is a means of good
to them that walk uprightly; if this word bring not life it brings death.
Evening, disturbed by a message from the Lady Dalston and her sister
(since Countess of Wiltshire)! introduced by Madam Dawkrey to see my
collection of rarities and coins, which with reluctance I resisted,
because of the unseasonableness, with proffer of service to-morrow,
whereby I avoided the outward breach of the command. But, alas! my vain
thoughts, like tinder, are easily enflamed, and any good motion like
a spark quickly extinguished.
4. Morning abroad inquisitive after public concerns. Forenoon advising
with Mr. B. D.; after till near three with Mr. E. H. expecting but disappointed
of his company at G's., where several were consulting about our public
liberties now in much hazard.
5. Morning at old Mr. Boyse's writing London letters, and advising with
Mr. Sharp ; showed the order of Court for suppressing conventicles,
which with other circumstances (the officers having surprised Brook
and got the key of the chapel) prevented our public assembly, but through
mercy enjoyed in private an excellent sermon, from Hos. vi. 1. Doctrine,
that God's people in afflictions may promise themselves mercy upon their
returning to him. Showing that mercy is not absolutely ready for them
but only upon their renewed repentance ; the stress is not to be laid
upon our first repentance before afflictions, but upon that renewed
under them. Old repentance will not serve for new guilt. Added a word
of caution that temporal deliverances could not be expected at the very
juncture of repentance like spiritual pardon might, but in God's due
time, which is best: then came to the grounds upon which mercy may be
expected ; viz. upon our returning to God, as it is a condition of the
promise, else our returning in itself, strictly taken, can no more oblige
God to show mercy than a beggar's coming to receive alms doth the giver,
who only is bound by his promise. 1st. Use for doctrine : it teaches
1st. wherein our security, comfort, and peace doth consist in an evil
day; not in carnal confidence, but in returning to the Lord, who is
both shield and buckler; the world and sin are but like eclipsing evils,
which interposing betwixt God and our souls, deprive us of all light
and comfort, as the body of the earth betwixt the sun and moon, which
of itself is but a globe of mere darkness, 2. That the goodness that
is in us cannot merit any thing of God. 3. That the wicked who are apt
to promise themselves most have least reason to expect mercy. .... Dined
with Mr. Sharp at E. H's,, then consulting where to meet on Lord's-day.
6. Morning up writing; then at cousin Fenton's christening, and to visit
Stittenham friends, stayed there late in the evening, but avoided even
the tendency to intemperance, notwithstanding solicitations, which I
take notice of not for self-applause, but for the praise of God, who
is a God hearing prayers.
7. Forenoon with the haymakers, and at Mr. R's.; but after till about
four at Mr. B. D's., advising— then with relations till late in
the evening.
9. Die Dom. Much affected in meditation of the inexpressible loss of
our public liberties, which cost me multitudes of tears and sighs, and
yet infinitely short of the bitterness of heart that might, and should
have seized upon me for those crying sins that have provoked God to
deprive us of a mercy that certainly is more valuable than all the world
besides. Lord, help me to forbear murmuring at man who is only thy instrument,
and to take revenge upon my own corruptions, that are the meritorious
cause of these sad dispensations ; and do thou graciously pour down
a double blessing upon thy word dispensed in private. After ten, walked
to Holbeck, to late uncle Idle's house (now Mr. Scur's) where, through
mercy, we enjoyed the learned labours of worthy Mr. Sharp, from Micah
ii. 7, which he now concluded, being upon the fourth use for instruction,
how we must do to profit by the word, and walk uprightly. I. With a
troubled spirit reflect upon the little good thou hast obtained. 2.
Renounce the evils that are contrary. 3. Receive the word for its own
ends. 4. Possess yourselves of it by a particular application. 5. Digest
the word of God. 6. Labour to get the Spirit, whose hand is not shortened.
7. Labour to find out your defects. 8. Look unto Jesus Christ, the essential
work of God; it is life above all to know him as thy possession. There
are three sorts of good things that the mind of man looks upon—what
is pleasant, profitable, and honourable, and the end of God is also
these. 1. It brings with it more true and satisfactory pleasure soner
in York Castle, merely for conscience sake,) and widow Bell. The Lord
doth more than reward anything that is done in uprightness of heart
for his poor suffering servants.
26. Up about four, to hear Mr. Ward at cousin I. I.'s, from Heb. x.
38.
30. Die Dom. Morning, and much of the forenoon, walking in the garden,
reading or meditating; was sometimes much affected, especially with
Dr. Wilkins9 incomparable treatise of Prayer. Mr. Sharp, from Isaiah
Iv. 6, 7, made a most incomparable discourse, both learned and long,
(not tedious) for he preached two hours and a half, by Mr. W.'s, and
church clock.
Aug. 4. Lay till about six, then writing; doing some
little business before noon ; designed for the Spas ; we called at Mayor's,
and took Bardsey in our way, where Baron Thorp* lived, died, and lies
interred; got well thither; had the good, serious company of cousin
Ibbetson.
6. Die Dom. After water time in the morning, had the opportunity to
hear good Mr. Gunter, but was indisposed with the waters which made
me excessively drowsy. Afternoon, he preached from the same, Isaiah
xxxviii. 14, being the prayer of Hezekiah upon his sick (and, as he
thought, death) bed, of the plague. Was somewhat disturbed with the
sight of an informer, who got cunningly into the meeting; but, blessed
be God, for restraining him from doing any harm as yet.
8. Morning, spent this also, as the former, in the course of the Spas,
but lost cousin I. and Mr. Gunter s company, a greater loss, because
good company so scarce.
12. Up before five, writing; rid to Halifax, had the pleasing society
of Mr. Brearcliffe, the ingenious antiquary, who kindly lent me his
manuscript collection ; in return, visited Mr. Sharp, &c.
14. Rose pretty early. Most of the day taken up with visitants, to see
Holroyd pass by to his execution, for the horrid murder of Mr. Scurr,
his mother, and a maid-servant. After, rode to the moor, where were
many thousand spectators; but, alas! frustrated exceedingly in their
expectations, he dying in the most resolute manner that ever eye beheld,
wishing (upon the top of the ladder) he might never come where God had
anything to do if he was guilty, and so threw himself off in an anger
as it were, without any recommendation of himself to God that any could
observe, which struck tears into my eyes, and terror to my heart, for
his poor soul, earnestly imploring, while I saw any signs of life, that
God would give him repentance for his crying sins, and be better to
him than his desires.
15. Morning, writing; most of the forenoon with Squire Lambert, (son
to the old Lord General,) showing him my collection of coins, pictures,
&c. and with Mr. Lodge, our townsman born, an ingenious traveller
and painter; rest of the day abroad, about trivial occasions.
16, Writing to Rotterdam. Lord, succeed my lawful endeavours : this
is the first I ever made trial of in this kind.
25. Up at five ; for an hour abroad about business; then transcribing
from a manuscript till noon; after, taking a catalogue of English pictures
till seven ; was then at Mr. T. S. and S. H., who came along with me
to see the comet upon our turret. Lord, fit us for whatever changes
or alterations it may portend; for, though I am not ignorant that such
meteors proceed from natural causes, yet are frequently also the presages
of imminent calamities.
26. Up at five, writing till noon, chiefly for Mr. B. D., Englishing
the town's charter, and reading Sir John Lewys' manuscript account of
Madagascar and Johanna; spent the afternoon idly, in visits at uncle
M.'s and Mr. Whitaker's, though in good company, and not ill-employed,
(perusing his library,) yet too little time redeemed for the unum necessarium.
29 Morning, up at five, writing; then showing our collection of coins
to Dr. Howel, the learned Chancellor of Lincoln, who professed it was
the most curious and complete collection he ever beheld, except one
in France, wherein were 15,000/. in gold and silver medals.
31. Most of forenoon abroad with strangers, and discharging some messages;
after, visited by Mr. Joseph Boyse, spent all the afternoon in his good
company, visiting with him several friends.
Sept. 6. Up at five, perusing some part of Mr. Waterhouse's
manuscript, which he lent me yesterday, wherein he exactly hits the
mark, and avoids both extremes with great caution and prudence. Afternoon,
a great part in showing the collections to Squire Ramsden's daughters,
till about five.
7. Morning, up at five; rode to Wakefield, and after to Swaith-hall;
and afternoon with cousin Wadsworth to Silkstone, viewed the delicate
and noble tomb of Sir Thomas Wentworth, whose widow is since married
to the Earl of Eglinton; saw the glass-houses.
8. Forenoon, at Wentworth, to see and transcribe the monuments of that
ancient family, but found none erected yet for the Earl, but two curious
ones for (his) father and grandfather, and Sir William Rokeby. After
dinner returned home; had the company of the good old gentleman to Wakefield.
This day, Mr. L. stabbed in the heart Nath. Hoy's man, with his shoemaker's
knife, that it is feared he will die of it.
20. Lay till after five ; morning writ to London ; then at the Moor
to see my kind friend Mr. Henry Fairfax, the soldiers trained, and a
foot-race, three times round, above six measured miles, which they run
in thirty or thirty-three minutes, at the utmost: cuique sua dos: afternoon
writing, &c.
25. Employed in the upper study writing and reading till four. Evening
at W. A.'s, discoursing with his former servant, now Dr. Newton, author
of an Herbal, with cuts, in 8vo. to which subscribed 10s. as also did
Mr. Samuel Ibbetson.
October 6. Morning reading a little; after rode with
ditto, E. H. to the funeral of the good, religious, Lady Barwick; but
could not stay to hear Mr. Corlass preach, which vexed me.
15. Die Dom. Mr. Milner, from Isaiah liv. 13, made a very learned discourse
in confutation of our modern enthusiasts, who, upon pretence of being
taught of the Lord, do slight all public Ordinances.
16. Evening sent for by lawyer Hilliard, an ingenious antiquary,* and
Dr. Robinson, with whom spent some time pleasantly.
17. Most of the day abroad, partly with dear aunt Lucy Idle, condoling
her great affliction in her son Thomas; spent rest of day and evening
with ditto lawyer Hilliard, brother to the late Sir R. H.
31. Morning received a letter of bad news; imprisonment and persecution
of many good ministers in Middlesex, merely for conscience sake; the
Lord be their comfort; very much or most of the day abroad, about that
and other occasions, with Mr. O. Heywood, Mr. Boyse, &c. with whom
evening likewise spent to some satisfaction.
November 1. Morning up very early ; writing heads
of sermons till near eight; then writing to Newcastle; rest of forenoon
abroad, with worthy Mr. Heywood and Mr. Boyse, at Mr. E. H.'s, with
whom rode after dinner to honest Mr. Middle-brooke's, steward above
twenty years to the Earl of Sussex, to hear some remarkable stories
of old Sir John Savile, which took up rest of day.
2. Perusing Camden and Speed, in order to a northern journey, most of
day; about three visited by Mr. Mann; after by Madame D. and Mrs. M.
N. with whom spent the evening.
3. Employed as yesterday, consulting Fuller; then maps, till after three,
when surprised with the sad news of Mr. Sharp's being dangerously sick,
went abroad about that and some other occasions, but spent evening not
so cautiously.
4. Morning, up pretty early writing; after with Mr. E. H. and T. W.
rode to Little Horton, to visit worthy Mr. Sharp; whom, blessed be our
gracious and merciful God, we found much better than we expected.
6. Morning up rather too early, about two, writing and perusing some
books and papers, in order to a journey; after employed about some friends'
concerns, and taking leave of relations till noon; then rode with Mr.
Richard Mann by Harwood, where is an ancient castle, that has often
changed the owners. In the church are some ancient tombs; the most remarkable
is for Judge Gascoyne, of whom vid. Fuller's Worthies in Yorkshire ;
then by Ripley, the seat of the ancient family of the Inglebys, whereof
Sir William died this day at his prayers, (as informed by worthy Mr.
Kirshaw, the minister,) of an impostume, having been twice at church
the day before, and repeated sermon at night. We designed to have reached
Massarn, but being benighted, got well, though in the dark, to Fountains.
7. Husbanded not the morning so well as might be; rid by, (and through
mistake almost round,) the famous Abbey of Fountains, built by Thurstan,
Archbishop of York ; formerly a stately Abbey, as appears by the very
ruins, now full of trees, within the very body of it; and a stately
modern hall, with Benedicite Fontes, Domine inscribed upon the portal.
Thence we rid to Ripon, which boasts of a stately Cathedral Church,
wherein is St. Winifred's needle and some tombs; thence by Stavely,
where Justice Stavely, a great traveller, has a pretty seat, to Tan-field,
which has a pretty tower, belonging to the Earl of Elgin, and a church,
with monuments of the ancient family of the Fitz Hughs, and a Free-School,
built and endowed by the Lady Diana Cecil, (of the Earl of Exeter's
family,) first married to the Earl of Oxford, and then to the Earl of
Aylesbury, to whose son she married her niece ; and, having no children
of her own, left them a great estate, and built there a Free School,
which she endowed with 251. per annum, as I was informed by Mr. Hutchinson,
the master and hired minister. Thence by Wells, a pretty country town,
with a handsome church, by Snape Hall, a stately fabric of the .* now
by marriage of one of his co-heirs, the Earl of Ayles-bury's; after,
not far from Thorp Hall, now the Lady Danby's; and near Bedal had a
prospect, at a distance, of Hornby Castle. Bedal is a pretty market
town, which has a handsome church, with several old monuments, particularly
a very stately one of a knight cross-legged, in armour, and his lady,
curiously cut in stone to their full proportion; as one in the wall,
which I could fancy some Bishop. There is another knight in armour,
with his shield, a chevron betwixt three roses, but without any inscription
; as also is one of the Escues, near Fitz Alan's; and another nearer
the door, of a knight in armour, with a lion at his feet, but could
not be informed of what families. I transcribed only that of Lambert
and Young.
Here is also a Free School, to which some of the Wrays, either Sir Christopher
or Sir John, was a benefactor; and an hospital of Mr. Young's for three
poor widows, who have each 40s. per annum, which was lately recovered
to their use by Sir Miles Stapleton ; who has the disposal of 100/.
left by another Mr. Young, who died about twenty years since, the interest
whereof is yearly disposed of for the education of youth, or some other
charitable purpose, as informed by ditto clerk. In a mile whereof, at
Firby, is an hospital built by Mr. Clap-ham for six poor old men, and
a master, who have each 5s. per month, (two-pence per day) beside coats,
caps, gowns, &c. and each a pretty orchard, and the master more.
He left also to the disposal of Bedal Church six five-marks, to be lent
gratis, for three years, to six or twelve poor tradesmen. Thence, by
Catterick, where is a pretty hospital, built and liberally endowed by
Mr. Siddall (born at York) their Vicar. In the church is an ancient
monument of a knight in armour, for one of the Saltmarsh's, as supposed
; and several curious large blue stones, with statues in brass, and
inscriptions as old as 1412, for the Burghs, of Burgh, hard by ; where
now inhabits Sir John Lawson, whose lady, and Lady Braithwait, are here
interred, but without any inscription.
8. From Catterick-we rid to Piercebridge, an ancient Roman colony, where
have been dug up many of their coins and inscriptions, particularly
that altar I have at home. It is now a poor village, without either
church or chapel. Thence, by Walworth-hall, a delicate seat of the Jenisons,
built archwise with turrets. Thence, by Highinton and Elden, to Kirkmarinton,
the church whereof is built upon so high a hill that it is seen many
miles off. There, had a prospect of Durham Abbey, whither (leaving Branspeth
Castle, the delicately pleasant seat of the ingenious Sir Ralph Cole,
on the left hand) we arrived in time to observe the antiquities of St.
Cuthbert and his Cow (cut in stone upon the Minster,) and venerable
Bede, who lies interred under a stately blue marble, but without inscription
save this, handsomely chalked round the edge, Hac sunt in fossa Bedae
venerabilis ossa. Observed too, the Castle and Bishop's Palace, much
built and beautified by the memorable Bishops Tonstal and Cousins, who
built also the alms-houses in the Square, and the Library, as appears
by the arms fixed upon them in many eminent places. Viewed also the
Tolbooth and Cross, built by ditto Tonstal; and spent much of the evening
with Cousin Mich. Walker's.
9. Morning, rode to Chester, and stayed with Aunt Thoresby and cousins.
Wrote some of the inscriptions of the tombs of the Lords Lumley, from
Lyulph the first, who flourished in King William the Conqueror's time,
and was a great cherisher of St. Cuthbert; whose ancient monuments scattered
in the neighbouring abbeys, and at Durham, were collected and placed
there in a curious delicate manner, by John, ninth lord. Thence, got
well to Newcastle ; spent the evening in business, viewing the town,
&c.
10. Up very early, and having dispatched business, rode with ditto Mr.
Richard Mann to North Shields. By the way had a sight of a pleasant
hall of Mr. Clark's, now Captain Bickerstaff's. Went to view Clifford
Fort; copied the inscription. It is fortified with forty cannons. Had
a prospect of Tinmouth Castle, and ancient church ; and below, of the
Spanish fort, built close by the sea by Queen Elizabeth. After having
observed their way of boiling salt, ferried over to South Shields. Thence,
through Weston, and within sight of Whitburn, by the sea to Hilton,
the seat of an ancient family of that name ; whereof Baronet Hilton
(as the report is, from some private dissatisfaction because of his
marriage with an inferior woman, which put him upon a resolution that
none from her should heir above 100/. per annum) gave the ancient estate
(being about 3000/. per annum) to charitable uses> making the Lord
Mayor of London and Aldermen trustees, for the term of one hundred or
else one thousand years, wanting one. Thence, by Cle-den and Fulwell,
to Monck-Wearmouth, where Sir Thomas Williamson has a pleasant house
and gardens. Thence ferried over to Sunderland, where we lodged.
11. Having overnight observed what was remarkable in Sunderland, which
is of late grown to a considerable repute and resource for coals and
salt, rode through Bishops-Wearmouth ; which was, saith Camden, much
beautified with chapels by Benedict Bischop, who first procured masons
and glaziers in England. Thence, through some country towns, Easington,
&c. to Hartinpoole, where transcribed some things from the ancient
church, now much ruined, as all the town, which has been of great repute
and circumference, as appears by the large walls, &c. and two very
old monuments, to the full proportion of a knight and his lady, in the
church-yard, and a large marble over the ancient vault for the ......
It now consists mostly of shippers, fishers, &c. to the poor whereof
ditto Hilton, Baronet, left 24/. per annum (though now it amounts not
to above 161.). Thence over the sands to Cre-tham, where is a very old
hospital, built by Robert, Bishop of Durham, for thirteen poor men,
who have 40s. per annum, and have an old chapel for Beadsmen's prayers.
Thence to Billinghani, the ale whereof is noted in Northumberland, Durham,
&c.; through Norton to Stockton, which has a pretty Town-house and
handsome buildings, but of no antiquity, but very prettily covered with
Dutch tiles.
12. Die Dom. The vicar (this being only a chapel of ease) preached from
Psm. xxxiv. 9, " Fear the Lord;" showed prettily how apt we
are to fear such things as are seldom observed, or that appear in an
extraordinary manner, as eclipses, lightnings, thunders, &c. which
proceed even from natural causes, and yet how few make them arguments
to fear the Lord, who made the heavens and earth ; and then for comets,
apparitions, whales, what strange effects they have upon vulgar apprehensions
; and then gave a lash or two at the poor Dissenters, if not at serious
piety, under the odious name of Presbyterians, full of fears and needless
jealousies, and tumultuary petitions ; but, saith he, " if we did
but aright fear the Lord, we should not need to fear Pope, or French,
or Presbyterians." After dinner, I thought to have rode some miles
to a sermon, but could not hear of one in the whole country; so went
to hear the town minister, after prayers, catechise children, and expound,
which I was glad to observe, in a plain, profitable manner, for instructing
the vulgar; he was upon the eighth Command, and having before in-sisted
upon the several sorts of stealth, theft, robbery, oppression, sacrilege;
and showed well the reason of all this to be from want of content with
the state and condition wherein God has set us, and advised very honestly
to that great duty, from the danger of the contrary error, which without
repentance would ruin the soul, which was more worth than the whole
world.
13. Morning up pretty early; ferried over the river at Stockton, thence
to Acklam, where Sir William Hustler has a pretty seat, thence through
a blind cross-road, to Marton, a church-town, and thence over the bad
moors to Gisborough, famous for a stately abbey, built Anno Dom. 1119,
by Robert Lord Brus, and the ruins whereof discover it to have been
a spacious and stately fabric: in the church is a delicate altar made
of an old marble, about three yards long, which some say was a tomb-stone
in the quire, the sides whereof are yet to be seen in the church, upon
each whereof I counted five statues with escutcheons, and most of the
ten figures were in armour, but could receive no account of what family,
but could fancy it the founder's. In the church-yard is an old hospital,
built by one of the abbots, (but by what particular one I find not)
for six poor men, and as many women, each whereof have fourteen pence
per week; and under the same roof a free school with twelve pounds per
arm. salary for a master ; thence over the rotten Moors for many miles
without anything observable; the sea at a small distance upon the left;
and upon the right hand, hills, whereof a round one, called Roseberry
Topping, is a mark for sailors ; within a few miles of Whitby, we passed
not far from Runs wick, the place where, near by the sea-side, stood
a little village of six or ten houses the last spring, of which I find
from credible persons, the report we had of its being swallowed up of
the earth, too true, though blessed be God, all the inhabitants were
saved, they happening to be at a kind of wake (as the old manner is)
at the house of a person immediately deceased, where observing the earth
to crack and gape, made all their escape; shortly after which, the chinks
grew suddenly wide, and the houses fell into the gulf. On the right
hand we left Moulgrave Castle, that ancient fabric, and passed through
Lith, a pretty country town ; thence over the Sands to Whitby.
14. Morning walking and observing the town, especially the famous old
abbey, built by St. Hilda, to whose sanctity they impute the falling
down dead of the wild geese when they fly over the adjoining fields.
Of which inquiring, could only be thus far satisfied, that such fowls
flying in shoals, do seldom alight there, in the Strand, as they call
their lordship, but fly to the inland where is plenty of corn, the want
whereof they look upon as the main [cause.] But I was informed of another
odd but ancient custom, upon this account: some of the neighbouring
gentry, particularly the Allensons, were hunting the wild boar, which
being hotly pursued took shelter in a little chapel about three miles
off, where a devout friar was at prayer, who being unwilling to have
the holy place polluted with blood, shut the doors to prevent the dogs
and hunters, one of which in the height of his fury ran him through
at one of the chinks of the door, whereupon all their lands were confiscated,
only afterwards mitigated by the Abbot upon this penance, that every
Holy Thursday eve they should make a hedge with a penny whittle, about
three or four yards within the river, and all the while a horn sounding
upon the shore; which said penalty was enjoined them till it should
happen to be high water that eve, which ever since, you must believe
to be miraculously prevented, (vid. old writings of Sir Hugh Cholmley's,
being the Records of the Abbey.) Whatever the former part of the story
has of truth, I know not, but most true it is, that to this year (for
I was credibly informed by several worthy persons that were eye-witnesses
of it the last Holy Thursday's eve) the heirs of that fa-mily do hold
their estate upon that tenure to this very day, and do yearly make a
hedge there : but the miracle is taken away when we consider that the
festival is always upon such a day of the moon which by a natural cause
produces the said effect • viz. that it is always low water upon
that eve. Adjoining to the Abbey, Sir Hugh Cholmley has a most delicate
and stately hall, supposed to be exceeded by few in England for the
bigness of it. The hall is of freestone, with large courts and walks
with iron grates and a curious statue in solid brass as large as the
life in the midst of the square, with a delicate bowling-green, gardens,
&c. which are extremely pleasant. Upon the hill is an old cross,
and in the churchyard are several ancient tombstones, some with plain,
others wrought crosses upon them, removed, I presume, from the abbey.
In the church is a pretty monument for Sir Richard Cholmley ; it stands
very high; I counted about one hundred and ninety steps as I came down
the hill. At the foot of the cliffs and rocks are found the stony wreathed
serpents Camden mentions, which are likewise ascribed to the sanctity
of ditto Hilda, who converted all the snakes wherewith the country was
then mightily annoyed, into these stones, several of which, and one
especially of an extraordinary bigness, I brought along with me. I gathered
some out of the hard black rock, cutting them out with a knife, but
look upon them merely as the sport of nature, as variety of instances
may sufficiently demonstrate. Whitby has a secure harbour for vessels,
which by a drawbridge, after the Dutch manner, are let into the town,
which is of good esteem for trade. Thence four miles to Robin Hood's
Bay, so named from that famous outlaw, who was born in Nottinghamshire,
and flourished temp. Ricardi I. Thence over the sands to the moors,
where was only observable his Butts, two little hills a quarter of a
mile asunder. Thence by Cloughton to Scarborough, famous for the medicinal
waters. Viewed the ancient and strong castle built by William Le Gros,
and after by King Henry II., upon so high a rock and so naturally defensible
that the very ruins are almost impregnable. It contains within its circuit
so much pasture ground as will summer about twenty cows. The town boasts
of her piers as they call them, which are in the nature of a quay, which
both secures the town, preserves the haven, and limits the insulting
sea and prevents its encroachment, which is of such importance to sailors
that they unanimously petitioned for its preservation, and obtained
to that end an imposition of four-pence per vessel (or eight-pence if
above one hundred chaldrons) of all that shipped with coals from Sunderland
and Newcastle. But to preserve the haven, because there is none but
Hull, betwixt this and Yarmouth, that in stress of weather can preserve
life and goods, the mariners too have been so noble as by contribution
to build an Hospital, (for the very ground whereof they gave 100/.,)
for poor seamen's widows, to whose maintenance every master gives four-pence,
vessel four-pence, and every man that receives above fifteen shillings
wages two-pence a piece, the whole whereof amounts to a considerable
subsistence, and is given them every Christmas.
15. Morning, observing some other parts of the town, and the noted Spa
well; then rode by country villages to Bridlington, in good time; there
observing the town, now well paved, through the benefaction of Mr. William
Hustler, draper, (grandfather to Sir William, near Stockton,) who from
a mean fortune attained a vast estate, partly by diligence and industry,
partly by the kindness of a rich old widow, who, looking upon him as
a careful young man, encouraged him by lending him money to buy his
cloth at Wakefield, which he made sure to pay again within the time
prefixed. She told him he need not have brought it again ; she had a
great many more bags at his service, which hint (verbum sat sapienti)
he improved in courtship, and married her; and now having a considerable
stock, in a gainful trade, he grew so exceedingly in estate and esteem,
that after her death, Mr. Sympson, of... ., gave him his daughter, and
a vast fortune, whereby his family was raised to a worshipful degree.
His son married one of the Saviles, and his grandson, Sir William Hustler,
enjoys a plentiful estate, and pleasant seat at Acklam, and, in gratitude,
became a singular benefactor to Bridlington, and at his own proper cost
and charges, (except, as some say, the townsmen found their own stones,)
he caused the whole town to be paved, which before was troublesome to
pass for dirt: he made also a Free School, and left forty marks per
annum to the master, and twenty to the usher, where now is taught his
greatgrandchild, Sir William's son. This town had the happiness of another
noted benefactor, Mr. William Bower, who was born of ordinary parentage,
and served as a sailor to one Peacock, of the quay ; but, by God's blessing
on his lawful endeavours, raised himself and numerous family to a very
plentiful estate. He erected, at his own charges, a school-house, and
gave to it 20/. per annum for ever, for maintaining and educating of
poor children, in carding, spinning, and knitting of wool: he died 23d
March, 1671, aetat. 74. I walked down to the lower town, and observed
the quay; and the tide being in, saw a porpoise sporting within some
yards of the piers, which some of the seamen looked upon as ominous,
portending a storm.
16. Morning, up pretty early upon the journey ; we rode about three
miles upon the sands; then by Barmston, where Sir Francis Boynton has
a pretty seat; then through Burton, Leven, Sutton, &c. to Kingston-upon-Hull;
spent much of the afternoon in viewing the town, hospital, north and
south ends.
17. Morning, viewing several other parts of the and transcribing several
monuments in the church, Mr. Wincop, Listers, Skinners; and several
benefactions, with inscriptions upon some hospitals Mesendieus (Maison
dieus); and afternoon, performing several visits to Alderman Field's,
Mr. G., cousin Th., and much of the day with Alderman Richardson's son,
to whom engaged for a sight of the long parchment scroll, with the list
of the Mayors ; but towards even drunk too freely (though not to ebriety);
with him Mr. G. Brooks and T. Sche-man, the two masters with whom I
went and returned from Holland.
18. Morning, up pretty early, in order to a journey from Hull by Newland
(rightly so called, for, I think, by the Dutch-like dykes and plenty
of water in the marshes, it has but lately been recovered from the waters,)
to Beverly, most noted for the ancient Minster, which has been of famous
account ; witness the sepulture of St. John of Beverly, Archbishop of
York, for whose sake King Athel-stane endowed it with a sanctuary and
many privileges, both whose pictures are there, with these old words
: " Als free make I thee, as hert may thynk, or eyh may see."
Here is also a stately tomb for the famous warrior Piercy, Earl of Northumberland,
and one for his Countess, with an arch of exquisite workmanship. Of
late years, Sir Michael Wharton's is the neatest, having his figure
as large as the life, in armour, in a kneeling posture, with a book
before him, and pillars, all in white marble. There are, too, some ancient
large blue marbles, but without inscription, the brass being torn off;
may be supposed of great antiquity, as that near Earl Piercy's tomb,
which, of late being digged under, there was found an ancient stone
trough-like coffin, (which I saw there yet remaining,) with a silver
lamp, but cannot yet be informed for whom. The town is nothing so famous
or populous as I presume it has formerly been ; only the Merchants'-row,
St. Mary's Church, and a house of the Wharton's, are most observable.
Thence we came by Bishops Burton, (where Mr. Gee and Mr. Hodshon have
each a pretty seat,) to Weeton-on-the-Wolds, a market and church town
; and thence by . ... to York.
Dec. 26. At four o'clock rode with Mr. R. Bevot to
Pontefract.
27. Forenoon spent with relations; afternoon mostly with Dr. Johnston,
viewing his curious collection of rarities, which for some parts cannot
be paralleled, and admiring his indefatigable industry in the multitude
of his manuscript volumes in folio.