A. D. 1694.
Jan. 9. Much of day abroad about chapel concerns,
under discouragements for Mr. Priestley's negative determination. Lord,
pity us, that have sinned away the best means, and provoke thee justly
to deprive us of hoped-for supplies !
15. Morning, up pretty early ; rode with Mr. Ib. to Aberford; dined at Mr. M. Hickeringhill's, (brother to the noted* writer of Colchester,) with whom bargaining about rape and black wares rest of day and evening too late.
17- Morning, dispatching away additions to Cam-den's Brit. ; afternoon, with Esquire Lambert, (son to the General,) an ingenious painter, inquiring of cousin Lodge'sf works, but spent too much time. Evening, read.
18. Morning at mill ; much of forenoon with Esquire Hatfield, of Hatfield ; the more welcome to him, (as he to me, for his concern for the supposed loss of me,) hearing at Rotherham that I was suddenly dead. Oh, that I may improve this false rumour of death to a real preparation for it! Afternoon, at the meeting at old cousin M.'s.
19. Morning, read Annotations ; all day writing to Mr. Nicholson and editors of Camden, except a
little at mill.
20. Morning, writing per post; afternoon, at Mr. Scudamore's study, and with Mr. Fenton and others about chapel affairs.
22. Writing to Mr. Stretton about a supply for our desolate society.
25. All day in library, according to yearly custom about this time, to examine its condition. Evening, read Saxon, &c.
27- Morning, writing post, then abroad, to receive and pay money ; afternoon, heard the Vicar preach well at a funeral, from Coloss. iii. 8. Evening, read two of old Mr. Todd's excellent sermons, from Isaiah xxxviii. 1, (concerning Hezekiah's sickness of the boil, which some conclude the pestilence,) preached at Leeds during the plague, 1645.
Feb. 2. Morning, read Annotations ; directing workmen till about ten ; then rode with Alderman Sawyer to view a controverted estate at Hunslet, where the rest of day endeavouring to compose the differences betwixt two near relations, engaged three years in suits.
3. So this morning with Alderman S. about ditto controversies, which we happily put an end to.
6. Morning, most of forenoon consulting with several of the society about Mr. Manlove ; after all, rode pretty late with cousin Fenton to Pontefract; enjoyed Mr. Manlove's company some hours, and received an absolute promise of his assistance at Leeds, and resolution to continue with us till death.
10. Morning, writing to the ingenious Mr. Gibson, (publisher of the Saxon Chronicle,) in answer to his letter and present. Afternoon, with the chief of the society, subscribing a paper in reference to Mr. Manlove. Before we had well finished, an unexpected message informed me, that Mr. Fern, of Chesterfield, (the Derbyshire minister recommended by Mr. St., who, in three weeks, had not writ word whether he ever received mine of the 21st past, or had made any proceeds in that affair,) was arrived at my house, which startled me. Evening, enjoyed his good company, and assistance in family prayer.
11. Die Dom. Forenoon, Mr. Thorp preached well from Psalm cxliv.; doctrine, that a people, whose God is the Lord, are happy and blessed. Afternoon, Mr. Fern preached excellently. After sermons, discoursing with brother R. and cousin W. of Pontefract, about Mr. Manlove, &c.; it was warmly enough argued on both hands. I afterwards penned a letter, which was immediately subscribed by eight, and sent away per a special messenger.
12. Morning, prevented of reading, by Mr. Fern's haste, who prayed well; walked with him to Mr. B. D.'s, and after to cousin F.'s, of Hunslet, where had Mr. Thorp's company an hour, but spent the greatest part of the day with cousin F. ; walking to a great number of places to discourse with them about Mr. M.'s coining, found an unanimous desire of him testified by voluntary subscriptions. Evening, while solacing our wearied selves, surprised with Mr. Manlove himself, and seven or eight Pontefracters, with whom the case was again agitated ; we sat up too late, or rather early, yet to small purpose ; prevented of reading, but Mr. Manlove prayed excellently.
13. After so few (as could scarce be called) hours' rest, was prevented by the unseasonable visit of the rest of the company, of a better employ. We afterwards had a solemn debate betwixt the two societies, which was managed without that heat, and those passionate resentments, I dreaded ; the result whereof was, that though we desire to be very tender of the concerns at Pontefract, yet think it reasonable to stand firm to the voluntary promise which Mr. Manlove gave us, being then a free agent, and which has a prospect of a more general service to the church, as well as to the society.
14. Morning, writing to Mr. Str. a tedious account of the whole ; in library, cleansing books from moths. Afternoon, heard the Vicar preach an excellent sermon at a funeral, from Matt. xi. 38.
15. Morning, early abroad about business, om gelt te ontfangen. Afternoon, had Esquire Gascoigne and the Lady Stapleton, with her Priest, &c. to view collections.
19. Surprised with another retrograde motion of Mr. M.; solicited by friends, I wrote to Newcastle, to have Dr. Gilpin's opinion of the business.
21. Morning, read Annotations ; heard the Vicar, who made a learned discourse, suited to the occasion, concerning the discipline of the ancient church, from 2 Cor. vii. 11, showing that public devotion ought to be preferred before private : 1. as more honourable and acceptable to God : 2. as more agreeable to the discipline of the ancient church: 3. more edifying to others. Afternoon, in library.
March 7- Evening, received Dr. Williams, (Dr. Nicholson being prevented by his mother, the Lady Boynton's illness,) from York; Dr. Russel and he had a consultation about father.
8. Morning, read; forenoon, with the doctors at the consultation about father ; after, at a meeting at honest W. W.'s. I was especially affected, when R. G. and B. C. prayed for direction in our choice, and a blessing upon our endeavours for a minister for our poor desolate congregation.
9. Morning, received an encouraging letter from Dr. Gilpin, in reference to Mr. Manlove's remove hither.
10. Morning, writing to the no less religious than Honourable Lord Wharton ; at mill, with father after, and then with cousin F. about chapel affairs ; was better, yet did not walk suitably to renewed mercy.
24. Morning, called up again after about an hour's sleep to witness the dying moments of my dear father-in-law, who slept sweetly in Jesus about two this morning.
26. Prevented this morning of reading, &c. by preparation for the funeral, which was solemnized this afternoon about five, when he (father-in-law) was interred in the grave of my great grandfather, the old Alderman Sykes.
29. Rode with cousin F. and brother Th. to Pontefract, to Mr. Manlove, who upon the sight of Dr. Gilpin's excellent letter confirmed his promise to us, and advised those of Pontefract immediately to apply themselves for probationers. Left my friends at Pontefract, and returned late enough, &c.
April 3. The night past begun a lamentable fire in a flaxman's house in Ousegate, York, which consumed about thirty houses before day.
4. Morning, walked to mill; read. Mr. A. of H. preached from Matth. viii. 4. whence, as from a pantheon, he brought forth arguments for the observation of Lent, for absolution, tithes, the priestly function, &c.; and the title of " the mightily learned Calvin" was not so grateful, as a reflection upon the excellent Mr. Perkins was unpleasant. Afternoon with brother R. receiving rents of tenants, the intemperance of some of whom was odious.
12. Morning, omitted Annotations, hastening for a journey upon chapel accounts. Rode with cousin F. to Bradford, engaged Mr. W. for Lord's day ; visited Mrs. Sharp and family, and accounted for collections. After, rode to Halifax, where we met with several ministers (whom we engaged for their respective days) at the auctions, where I squandered away some money in books. Evening, visited the Vicar of Halifax.
13. Morning, we rode to Mr. Priestley's, and in return to Mr. Heywood's, at Northowram, was pleased with the chapel himself lately built there for his people, into which he told us the late Vicar of Halifax (my good friend Mr. Hough) entering with him, put off his hat, and with fervency uttered these words, " The good Lord bless the word preached in this place." After visited Mr. Dawson, at Morley, that have procured supplies till June.
15. Die Dom. Morning, Mr. Waterhouse preached excellently from, Jude, verse 4. Doctrine, that there have been, there are, and there will be, persons in all ages that turn the grace of God into lasciviousness.
20. Rode with a few friends to meet Mr. Man-love, who considerably damped our spirits by his hesitancy after renewed promises.
22. Die Dom. Morning, Mr. Manlove preached excellently from 2 Cor. vi. 1.; and before afternoon sermon spoke excellently to the institution of baptism : then baptized my daughter Grace, and as many more as made a dozen, amongst which the only son of the Rev. Mr. Corlass, late parson of Marston. Lord, confirm in heaven what is done in thy name upon earth.
23. Morning, received a visit from Mr. Man-love, as he from so many others, as prevented family prayer. After with hirn to visit cousin Fenton indisposed; after return from Hunslet, with Mr, Whitaker.
24. With Mr. B. D. at the Vicar's about registering our children.
May 7. Morning, perusing letters and accounts about the estate in Ireland. Afternoon appraising and dividing books.
10. About executorship. After rode with Brother R. to view the estate at Rodwel and Ouselwell-green (if not Oswald's-green.)
18. Perusing a curious survey of the manor of Leeds, taken 9 Jac. I.
June 1. Read Annotations, and began Math. in manuscript Bible, collating it with the common Latin Version and the Saxon Gospels. After reading Dr. Hicks's Saxon Grammar, Saxon Chronicle, &c.
6. Received a kind visit from Mr. Bright Dixon (the Duke of Leeds his chaplain) who brought my coins from the Editors of Camden's Britannia, the examining of which, and concern for the loss and exchange of several, took up forenoon.
20. Morning, perusing papers and writings concerning estate at Wexford. Proved father Sykes's will; was solicited to take a voyage for Ireland ; had some inclinations.
22. Morning, extremely solicited to forbear the journey for fear of pirates : renewed solicitations from friends, relations and acquaintance in abundance, but above all my dear, whose silent language of sighs and tears altered my sentiments.
30. Morning, read ; at mill; sent for by mother Sykes, to consult about a Cumberland gentleman (Mr. Salkeild), that would court sister D. S.; discoursed him seriously and plainly. Evening had good Mr. Eleazar Heywood's* company, &c.
July 12. Morning, read Annotations in family, and Peiriscius in walks to and from Gypton; afterwards sent for by Mr. Mayor, Mr. Recorder, and Mr. Sorocold, about waterworks.
25. Morning, writing to Dublin, read, then at Mill-hill till noon ; after at Mr. Thrisk's, an ingenious artist, making a mould of my hand and W. H .'s face, and casting each till four. Then with Mr. Ibbetson to visit the Alderman at his Montpelier.
Aug. 1. Busied about Pontefract journey, it being past noon ere I returned from Hunslet. After at mill, then in library exposing the collections to Sir G. Hatton's son, and. cousin A. of York, with whom evening.
2. Morning, rose early, read Annotations, then rode with my dear wife, and several relations and friends with their wives to Pontefract, but missed Mr. Maalove's good company; viewed the ruins of the stately castle, and returned safe in evening.
5. Die Dom. Morning, read Annotations. The Vicar preached excellently from Matth. xiii. 16, 17, whence he showed the obligations that the Christian religion lays upon us more than the Mosaical law to the Jews of old, and improved it excellently against the Deists and Socinians of the age. Evening, catechised thirty poor children.
8. Morning, writing per post, read Annotations. Forenoon, employed in Saxon authors. After walked with Mr. Ibbetson to Hunslet, stayed late enough.
10. Morning, read Annotations in family, and Saxon in study till noon ; after had visitants, relations and Esquire Salkeild, with recommendation from the Archdeacon of Carlisle, as to courtship.
12. Die Dom. Morning read Annotations ; then heard the Vicar, who preached excellently from Mattb. xiii. 16, 17, and was deservedly sharp upon the too common vices of lying and injustice, especially when it gets upon the bench.
13. Morning, read Annotations in family, and Saxon, &c. in study. Was all day (except a walk to the mill) in library, perusing an ancient manuscript communicated to me by Justice Stanhope, of Eccles-hill, and thence transcribing a charter of Maur. Painell (9th King John) to his burgesses of Leeds, &c. Evening, began to peruse Mr. Somner's Antiquities of Canterbury.
14. Morning, read Annotations; abroad about business. After received visits from Mr. Heywood, sen., Mrs. Noble and Edwards. Evening, rode with cousin Fenton to Pontefract, where enjoyed Mr. Manlove's company, consulting, &c. till very late, or rather early.
15. Morning, returned well; then writing till noon ; then at Lawyer Thornton's about ditto old charter; and evening, with Parson Robinson, (the Archdeacon's neighbour and friend,) about Mr. Salkeild's courtship.
16. So this morning: received a visit from ditto Cumberland parson and Mr. Salkeild ; after sight of collections, discoursed of ditto affair; then, with brother Rayner about ditto concern ; and after, with the Vicar and neighbourhood at Mr. Ib.'s banquet; evening, again at Mill Hill, about ditto weighty affair, seriously discoursing sister D. S. about it. By these affairs much straitened in time, and much more in affections, that I little thought upon the mispence of so much precious time as I have unprofitably consumed, being this day thirty-six years of age.
17. Morning, early at Mill-hill, about ditto concern, having received a somewhat discouraging letter ; arguing the case seriously with the young gentleman, and all others concerned.
22. Was several times with Mr. Sorocold's workmen, who this day first began in Kirk Gate to lay the lead pipes to convey the water to each family; rest of day writing, till towards evening, &c.
24. Morning, most of day writing; rest, taking leave of Mr. Salkeild.
31. Morning, prevented of reading in family : rode with Mr. Ib. through Pontefract Lane, by Temple-Newsham, (near the place where, of old, the Temple stood,) over Castleford Bridge to Pontefract, where enjoyed Mr. Manlove's company; thence, through Darrington, (where Captain Mason was rescued,*) Stapleton, a pretty village, where the Dutch tiles are much used, Smeaton, and Campsal, where I transcribed some monuments of the Yarboroughs, through Bawn, "yorsoo^/'toBramwith, where passed the river Dun, at Sir Thomas Hodgson's pretty seat, and thence to Hatfield, where kindly entertained at John Hatfield's, Esq.
September 1. Morning, Mr. Ib. prayed; we after rode over part of the Chace, where the cast up works do, to this day, testify the entrenchments of that vast army, A. D. 633, when Edwin, the first Christian King of Northumberland, was slain, his army defeated, and his palace at Cambodunum burnt down, whereupon, the succeeding kings built them a cininjaj- bofcle, at Leeds. We rode by Hatfield Wood-house, upon the banks, in the watery levels,to Wroot, in the Isle of Axholme, all along seeing pieces of those trees digged out of the ground, and frequently espying the ends of them within the ground, in the trenches : we had the like banks to Stpckwith, where we ferried over the famous river of Trent, where we saw near twenty of the thirty sail of ships belonging thereunto ; thence, we rode to Gainsborough, where* after dinner, we viewed the rape mills; was much pleased with the workmanship and contrivance of the new horse mill, which was the main design of our journey ; was after at the Mart Yard, by Sir Willoughby Hickman's, and to visit cousin Whitaker, at Mr. Coates's; evening, again at the mill, and to visit Mr. Bedford.
2. Die Dom. Morning, enjoyed Mr. Ib.'s happy help in prayer; after, a little at the church, viewing the monuments of the dead; heard cousin Whitaker both parts of the day.
3. Morning, Mr. Ibbetson prayed ; we after walked to the mill, and viewed the town ; after, returned with cousin Whitaker, by Stock with and Wroot, through the Isle of Axholme and the Levels, where admired the cheapness of the ground, &c. (though, none, I confess, like the cottage and appurtenances we rode by, which Captain Hatfield, our Gaius, lets a poor man for 12s, upon which he feeds ten head of cattle,) and goodness of the crops this year, worth the value of the land in some places, to Hatfield, where we were most obligingly entertained by the good family ; where also we enjoyed Mr. Westby's pleasing company; I made also a visit to Cornet Lee's,* who showed me his collection of rarities, pictures, and armoury; Mr. Whitaker prayed well in family ; Mr. Ib. in secret.
4. So this morning; we after returned through Baun, &c. to Pontefract, where stayed so long with Mr. Manlove, that put us too late in the night; but we returned safe, and found our families so.
17. Preparing for a journey into Cumberland, about sister D. S.'s concern, taking leave of relations; set forwards about ten ; rode by Mr. Kirk's, (the virtuoso) of Cookridge, to Otley, seven miles; walked down the Chevin, but had not time enough to view the church, wherein is the monument for the first Lord Fairfax; thence, through Burley; had the prospect of Newhall, Mr. Vavasour's seat, and Denton Hall, the Lord Fairfax's to Ilkley, three; the Roman Olicana, as Camden thinks; but it was the first cohort of the Lingones that resided here, for I strictly transcribed the altar, VERBEIK SACKVM ; and the last line is r LINCON, as is the original, which my father saw and transcribed at Stubham Lodge; thence, by the side of the river Wherfe, (Verbeia,) which seems, indeed, to have been cruel enough, by the breaches it has made ; (whence, more probably, the occasion of that altar, to pacify so angry a nymph, which has taken down the stone bridge several times); to Long Addingham, a church town also, where we entered upon Craven, two miles ; thence, over Rumblesmoor, where we had a very severe storm, and the way, as well as weather, not very desirable, four miles to Skipton, where left the church and castle unviewed, (not so much as baiting in the town;) thence, over the river Are, eight times in three miles, to Gargrave; thence, one to Cunniston, where the young man lived that was of late years so remarkably converted by reading some pages (dropped from Madam Lambert, of Cowton, as she was reading in the book in her way to the meeting) of Mr. Baxter's Call to the Unconverted, strangely brought into the house by a little dog; thence to Hellyfield two miles, and Long Preston, severely wet, and very weary with travelling so many miles in a dark, rainy night, yet received little or no prejudice; was most of the evening transcribing heads of Mr. Knowles's benefaction to this his native soil.
18. Rose early, to write remainder of ditto Will, &c. Had sat up too late for same purpose; had a morning as severe as yester-night, and worse, in respect of the waters being out with the rains. Saw the place where Mr. Lambert, (the General's younger son) was lately drowned. Left the Settle road, and rode by Cowbridge to Wigglesworth-hall, Mr. Sher-burn's seat, where saw the finest barn possibly in England, measxvred by our servant twenty-two yards wide and forty-six long, of stone, &c. Thence to Rathmel (three miles from Preston), where most obligingly entertained by the learned and reverend Mr. Frankland, (who directed us as to the main occasion of our journey); admired the number and hopefulness of his pupils, amongst which Mr. Sharp and my nephew Wilson; had much pleasing discourse with reference to his son's memoirs and other memorable transactions, he promised me an account of; and we rode thence through Giggleswick, and at the foot of that very remarkable scar, alighted to observe the famous well, which in a few minutes we saw several times ebb and flow eleven inches or a foot perpendicular, and continually agitated, either increasing or declining visibly. Then mounted our horses, and the scar too, clambering up a rock, steep enough, for the prospect's sake. By Austwick, to Clapham, four miles, and thence over part of that exceeding high mountain, Ingleboro', the highest of our English Apennines, which had enveloped his head in the clouds, so that we could not distinctly discern the height of that other hill, which is, as it were, set upon the head of it, as the learned Camden observed with wonder, p. 749. To Ingleton, three, and thence, five, to Kirkby Lonsdale, a very pretty well-built market-town, with a church, &c. which the shortness of the days and length of the miles prevented our observance of, more than the bare view as we rode through the town, where we passed the river Lean, or Lune ; thence over several high hills, where yet we had the prospect of much higher, to Kendal, eight miles, where we lodged.
19. Morning, rose pretty early ; went to church before well light, transcribed some monuments erected since those I formerly noted ; that, especially, of Mr. Sands, a benefactor to this town, where A. D. 1659, he erected an hospital for eight poor widows, who have each 12d. per week, besides a salary to a Reader or Schoolmaster, &c. ; which fabric (wherein we saw one widow weaving their woollen manufacture,) I believe he first designed as a workhouse, by the tazels, &c. cut in stone upon the front. And this town, which is the chief in Westmorland, is yet a place of trade, Kendal cottons being famous all England over. It is a handsome well-built town, but cannot pretend to any great antiquity ; and the Castle is ruinous, formerly the prime seat of the Parrs, where the Lady Catherine Parr, (the last of King Henry VIII.'s wives, and a great favourer of the Gospel,) was born. From Kendal, we rode by Stavely, four miles, to Ambleside, six (at the end of Winandermere, praegrande stagnum, the most spacious lake in all England, saith Speed,) now a country vill, but of old, as appears by the many heaps of rubbish and ruins of walls, as well as by the paved highways leading thereto, a noted Roman station— Amboglana, as Camden conjectures. Thence, over Eyn-bridge, and many high hills, amongst which the said melancholy river runs, upon which a remarkable catadupa, cataract, or waterfall, which falling from a great height, and breaking upon the rugged rocks, affected both the eyes and ears with somewhat of horror, especially us that were riding upon the steep and slippery side of the hill ; to Fellfoot, four miles; and then ascended a dreadful fell indeed, terrible rocks, and seemingly inaccessible ; much more likely for the goats to scramble over, than horses or men ; especially those two more notorious of Wren-nose and Hard-knot, which were really mighty dangerous, terrible, and tedious, and had nothing to comfort us but the certainty of being in the right way, for the prodigious rocks on the right hand, upon that ugly Wrynose were absolutely inaccessible, and on the left nothing but a ghastly precipice to the Fell-foot, which I think may as well be called Hell-foot, as those riverets (which Camden mentions p. 727) Hell-becks, because creeping in waste, solitary, and unsightly places, amongst the mountains upon the borders of Lancashire ; which, not distinctly remembering, I mistook several little becks for, which came rumbling down these high mountains into valleys, hideous enough in places. Upon the height of Wrynose, we found the three shire-stones reared up, which bound as many counties, upon two whereof a man may set either foot, and sitting upon the third, may be at the same time part in Lancashire, Westmorland, and Cumberland, which we here entered upon, and walked down the hill. After which, we rode over several high hills, but accounted little because of Hard-knot, whose rugged head surmounted them, upon the top of which (when not without difficulty we had scaled it) I was surprised to find the ruins of some castle or fortifications where I thought the Romans had never come. Having at length surmounted the difficulties of these eight miles' tedious march from Fell-foot to Dale-garth, (which was rendered still more uncomfortable by the loss of a shoe from the servant's horse, which much retarded our journey,) we came into a pleasanter country by the river Esk; and being recommended by Mr. Frankland, visited Justice Stanley at Dalegarth, to enquire after Mr. S. Thence seven miles good way in a habitable part of the earth, by Gosforth, the pleasant seat of Mr. Copley, to Cauder-bridge, where we arrived safe, though late, in a dark night and strange country, but necessitated thereto for want of conveniences nigher, and here found them very slender ; jannock bread and clap-cakes the best that gold could purchase ; but we made ourselves merry with the music of our clog-slippers, and complimented them to entertain us at Bernard Swaneson's, whose family, he saith has been there 380 years, as Mr. Patrickson, an ingenious gentleman of Cauder Abbey adjoining,
20. Morning, enjoyed Esquire Curwen's, of Sellay Park, good company, and serious advice (upon Mr. Frankland's recommendation) to decline a Cumberland match, &c.; in our road from Cauderbridge we had a fair prospect of the Irish sea, to Egrernont, three miles, where we saw the vestigia of an ancient castle. Thence by the iron mines, where we saw them working and got some ore, (which is transported to Ireland where it is smelted) and . . . where worthy Bishop Grindall was born ; to White-haven five miles, where we spent the rest of the day in pursuing directions in quest of Mr. S's. estate; and in viewing the town, which is absolutely the most growing thriving town in these parts; much encouraged by Sir John Lowther, the lord thereof, who gave them four hundred pounds towards building the pier, and two hundred pounds towards the building of a church, which is one of the prettiest I have seen, (after the London mode of their new churches) with the ground that it stands upon; and he is now building a very stately school-house, to which he designs the addition of two wings, one for teaching the mathematics, and the other writing. We walked thence along the designed Lowther-street, for it is grown from a village of six houses, as Major Christian, a native of the Isle of Man, (which we had the prospect of upon the hills,) and many others can remember, to a large town, full as big as Pon-tefract (even in brother Rayner's judgment), to Sir John Lowther's stately house at the Flat, where we were most obligingly entertained by William Gilpin, Esq. (the doctor's son, of Newcastle,) a most ingenious gentleman, who showed us the pictures and curiosities of the house and gardens, wherein is placed the original famous altar, GENIO LOCI, (mentioned by Camden, p. 770,) for which Sir John gave twenty pounds. This ingenious gentleman, who is an accurate historian and virtuoso, presented me out of his store of natural curiosities, with a very fair piece of Marchesites, and obliged me extremely with his pleasing converse, till pretty late at night with Dr. Jaques and Mr. Anderton, (one of Mr. Frankland's pupils, and the Nonconformist minister there) with much good company, amongst which, honest Mr. Atkinson, the ship-master, who wrote an obliging letter, to recommend us to Mr. Larkham, for further instructions about Mr. Salkeild, though little expectations of success.
21. Morning, rose pretty early ; yet prevented of too hasty a journey by the most obliging Mr. Gilpin, who afforded us his acceptable company till we left the town. We rode very pleasantly upon the shore, and had a fair prospect of the Isle of Man, (which peaks up with mountains in the midst) and part of Scotland, which appears also vastly mountainous; eastward also, we had the noted Skiddaw hill on our right hand, which with its high-forked head, Parnassus-like, seems to emulate Scruffel-hill, in Annandale, in Scotland. The Cumberlanders have a proverb :—
" If Skiddaw hath a cap,
Scruffel wots full well of that,"
applied to such who must expect to sympathize in their neighbour's sufferings by reason of the vicinity of their habitations; Turn tua res agitur parks cum proximus ardet. We rode by the ruins of an old building, which seemed to have been some religious house, and through a silly boor's mistake, prevented of the sight of Working-ton, a noted market town by the sea, and turned a worse road over the Moors, and some slender country vills, Clifton, &c. to Cock-ermouth ; a well built market town, with a church and castle upon two hills, almost surrounded with Darwent and Cocker ; it enjoys, also, a good school, endowed with about thirty pounds per annum, by the Lord Wharton, &c. ; but we saw little, save the town-house we rode by, designing, though prevented, to return and lodge there. Having passed Darwent, I called at Bride Kirk, or St. Bridget's Church, to see that noble monument of antiquity, the font, with a Runic inscription, which, even the learned Cam-den understood not; but is since accurately described by my honoured friend, the reverend and learned Mr. William Nicholson, Archdeacon of Carlisle, in a letter to Sir William Dugdale, Nov. 23, 1685 ; printed in the Philosophical Transactions of that year ; and in another to me, of Sept. 9, 1691, wherein he obliged me with the curious drafts of several Roman monuments found in Cumberland since Mr. Camden's time, and that famous cross at Beaucastle, with the Runic inscription, explained in a letter to Mr. Walker, then Master of University College, in Oxford, 2d November, 1685, printed also in the said Transactions, p. 1287? &c. though in this to me he has added a delicate inscription of nine lines upon the west side of that stately monument, found out, I presume, not only since that communicated by the Lord William Howard to Sir Henry Spelman, and mentioned by Wormius Mon. dan. p. 161; but since that to Mr. Walker, being not exemplified in the said Transactions, as the shorter inscriptions upon the north and south sides are. My said worthy friend, was pleased at the same time to favour me with his notes of my embrio manuscript account of Leeds, and very learned and accurate remarks upon some coins I had transmitted to him, especially upon that Amulet of the old idol Thor, with the Runic inscription, of which, inter1 alia, he writes me; " I never yet saw any Runic inscription so plain and intelligible, which I hope to find exemplified in the new edition of Camden's Britannia, being engraven (though badly enough, Table II.) with many more that the importunity of the gentlemen concerned prevailed with me to communicate, most of which are returned, with very kind expressions of gratitude, from the said poor (but ingenious) Mr. Ob. Walker and Mr. Edmund Gibson, who published the Saxon Chronicle, my very obliging and kind friends, though yet never seen by me, no more than the glory of my correspondents about antiquity, Mr. Archdeacon, till this journey from Bridkirk, where the honest parson was very obliging in showing us the said famous font and the register, where one of his predecessors had writ a small account of it, but without any knowledge of the letters; we rode to Talentire to consult Mr. Larkham, the Nonconformist minister, to whom Mr. Atkinson recommended us, (son to a good old Puritan, some of whose works are in print,) about Mr. S. but received the strongest reasons imaginable against it, and not fit to be communicated but to very choice friends concerned; he walked with us to Mr. Fletcher's, Copper Grove, where they are beginning to mine for the mineral ore, which abounds in this county; thence, after a consultation, we rode over the Moors, directly to Threepland, to Esquire Salkeild's, who, being all abroad at Bothal, &c. about the harvest, we were under a necessity to comply with them, and thankfully accept a night's lodging, though against my inclination, because foreseeing a rupture, &c.
22. Morning, discoursed the old gentleman about the terms ; and after, walked to view part of the land; and, by their excessive importunity and pretence of business in giving particulars of estate, prevailed with to stay till Monday; spent part of the day in coursing with the young gentleman, while the old Esquire was preparing a rental, and in visiting honest Parson Robinson, of Plumland; after, had Mr. Orphir's company; evening, discoursed Mr. Salkeild, sen. again about ditto concern.
23. Die Dom, it should be; though, alas! some part little like it, no prayers of any sort in family; we walked to Plumland, where worthy Mr. Robinson prayed and preached very affectionately and well from Luke x. 42. Doctrine, that nothing is needful comparatively to the salvation of the soul; many gentlemen invited to dinner, so that rest of day and evening was spent very unsuitably to the duties of the day, though we enjoyed the modest parson's good company, and Esquire Dyke's ; evening, sat too late, or early rather, with the young gentleman, and was foolishly cheerful, and vain in my expressions ; too compliant, &c.
24. Morning, taking leave of ditto family, who have very obligingly entertained us; of honest Mr. Robinson, Parson Holms, &c.; then rode by Bold, or Bothal, where viewed the land and mill, which gave little content; thence, to Torpenna two miles, their parish church, where Mr. Archdeacon preach-eth ; thence, to Ireby, a market town, three miles, which Carnden supposes to have been that Arboeia, fc where the Barcarii Tigrienses kept their standing guard; thence, by Caudbec to Park Gate, three miles; thence, to Heskit two miles, Newgate one mile, and to Hutton, four miles, where we viewed Sir George Fletcher's very stately hall, which is by far the most delicate noble structure we saw in these parts, (not having time to see Lowther, where Sir John Lowther is building such a palace-like fabric, as bears the bell away from all): thence five miles to Salkeld, the pleasant habitation of my honoured and kind friend, Mr. Archdeacon Nicholson, whose long-desired society I now enjoyed with great delight. We presently retired from the company to his museum, where he showed me his delicate collection of natural curiosities, (and very kindly bestowed several of them upon me,) some coins and medals, but the earth in those parts, where most have been found, being of a very corroding nature, many of them are extremely eaten ; many choice authors in print, but, above all, I was most pleased with his own most excellent manuscripts, especially his manuscript history of the ancient kingdom of Northumberland, in two volumes, in Latin folio, which yet put me to the blush ; looking in the Vil-lare for what remarks he had procured concerning Leeds, I, altogether unexpectedly, found my name inserted with titles far 'above me, for the etymology of the name, &c. We after walked to see the town, and river Eden, which rumbles not as most in Cumberland, whose courses are much obstructed with rocks and stones, but runs sweetly by the town, which is, without compare, absolutely the pleasant-est country town we have seen in these parts of England; but we had not time to visit Long Meg and her daughters at the less Salkeld, longing to be again in that little paradise, his study, &c. After supper, he showed us several remarkable sea-plants, and obliged us with most excellent converse, that I almost grudged my sleeping time.
25. Morning, rose early, to enjoy Mr. Archdeacon's most acceptable converse and papers, which were the most pleasing and instructive that I could tell how to wish for ; after, took leave of his modest good lady and family, but enjoyed his excellent company ten miles to Appleby, in the way whither, he showed us an old Roman camp, and the ruins of Gallatum, of which, vide Camden, p. 761. At Appleby, (the Roman Abbalaba, where the Aurelian Maures kept a station,) we were very nobly entertained with much good company at a venison feast, at the Rev. Mr. Banks', the head schoolmaster there, whose learned company, with that of the nonesuch Mr. Nicholson, was extremely obliging ; he showed us the school and library, and a most curious collection of Roman inscriptions on the walls of an adjoining garden-house, placed there by the learned Mr. Reginald Bainbridge, whom Mr. Camden and Sir Robert Cotton celebrate, as the excellent master of the school, when they made their survey of these parts ; the late learned Bishop Barlow, of Lincoln, and this present Bishop Smith, of Carlisle, (who is now building a public edifice upon pillars and arches, for the use and ornament of the town,) have been considerable benefactors, &c. The late worthy Bishop Rainbow's life is writ, and published by the said ingenious Mr. Banks, who has also printed
other things. After much pleasing converse, (wherein I had abundant reason to admire, as the ingenuity, so the candour also, of these learned persons, in taking notice of so insignificant a being, &c.) I left this ancient and pleasant town, and most excellent company, which I was so enamoured with, that I would not spare time to view the church, castle, or hospital, of which, vide my former journey into these parts, thirteen years since this very month, &c., and rode by Warcup, four miles off, to Brough, for distinction called Market Brough, where lodged, but walked to the Castle Burgh, to see the church, which had a good ring of bells, but no monuments, except we reckon the old-fashioned stone pulpit one, and the painted glass in the windows, which remain the most entire of any I have seen, having the entire pictures of many saints, &c. with inscriptions, ave gratid plena ; but I was sorry to find the castle so ruinous, as is also that at Brougham, yet dare hardly entertain so much as a harsh thought of the Earl of Thanet, because I hear so great a character of his charity to the poor, in sending both books, apparel, and considerable sums of money to the poor, and less able inhabitants of many towns, and that with so becoming a privacy, that they scarce know their benefactor, and know not what inducements he might have totally to demolish Pendragon Castle, which the late memorable Countess of Pembroke had so lately built from the ground, three hundred and twenty years after the invading Scots had wasted it, &c., being one of the six castles, which, with seven churches or chapels, and two hospitals, that noble Countess either built from the ground, or considerably repaired, for the good of the country, and the praise of her well-deserving name.
26. Morning, rose early, (having rested badly,) and left this ancient town, the Roman Verterae, where, in the declining state of the Empire, a captain made his abode with a band of the Directores, and before daylight entered upon the noted Stane-(or stony) more, but got so severe a cold as much indisposed me, with pain and numbness upon the right side of my head, which rendered my journey very uncomfortable. We rode for many miles upon the famous Roman highway, (as also yesterday,) which was here well-paved, by the notorious Spittle on Stanemore, which, though an ordinary inn, yet often most welcome to the weary traveller in this solitary country, which, for twelve miles, has but one other house (Baitings) for the reception of distressed wayfaring persons. About a mile thence, we passed by the noted Rerecross, or Reicross, as the Scots call it, (Roi-cross rather, or the King's-cross,) which their Hector Boetius would have a mere-stone, confining England and Scotland, erected when the Norman William granted Cumberland to the Scots, to hold it as his tenants. It is yet indeed a bounder, but of two counties, Westmoreland and Yorkshire, which we here entered upon ; and about six miles thence, came to Bowes, a small country town, where we saw the ruins of a small castle, formerly belonging to the Earls of Richmond, who had here a thorough toll and furcas, or power to hang : it was a place of emi-nency in the Roman time, the first cohort of the Thracians lying here in garrison in Severus's time; and in the declining state of the Empire, the band of Exploratores kept their station at the same La-vatrse, (or Levatrse ; for so its ancient name, in the Itinerary,) which being burnt, the succeeding vill was named Bowes by the Britains, with whom, at this day, a burnt thing is called boath, vid. Camden's Brit. p. 7821. From Bowes, four miles to Greta Bridge; in the road, we had a very fair prospect of Barnard Castle, built, and so called by Bernard Baliol, great-grandfather's father of John Baliol, Kino1 of Scots, now chiefly famous for bridles there made : at Greta, we baited to inquire of Roman coins, but found none worth the notice, though of late years there was dug up a stately piece of Roman gold, which, by the description, seems to have been in the declining state of the Empire, in the midst of the moat (as they call it,) behind the house, which has been a fair Roman camp, double trenched. Upon the bridge was the coat of arms of the warlike family of the Bowes', as I suppose, being three bows, &c.; but had not time to wait of Mr. Johnson, at Brignal, recommended by Mr. Archdeacon, as a person of the greatest curiosity in botany, ornithology, antiquities, &c. : we travelled thence over Gaterley-moor, where had a prospect of Kirkby-hill, and several country vills, to Hartforth, where kindly entertained at worthy Mr. Smith's, my brother's uncle, and a feoffee for Sir Thomas Wharton's benefaction, viz. a very delicate school-house, (which, on the Lord's-day, they use as a meeting-place,) and a very fine convenient house for the master, which he endowed with 40/. per annum, viz. 20/. per annum to the master, and the rest for repairs, and putting forth poor boys apprentices to trades, (to whom 51. each) ; but the sight thereof, though very delightful, and did for a little somewhat mitigate the violence of the pain in my teeth, yet it returned with greater force, and made the time tedious enough to myself, and, I fear others, brother Rayner especially, being not able to lie in bed till midnight; but, having got on my clothes, longed for the daylight. Mr. Dawson, jun. prayed very well, both evening and,
27- this morning, but it being a severe morning, and my teeth and head so badly, we made it nine ere we began our journey, and forbore our designed progress by Richmond or Midlam to Thoresby, three miles thence, the ancient seat of our family, wThence my great grandfather's father first removed into a more trading part of the country, &c. and returned by Gaterley Moor to Catterick, in the way having a prospect of the ruins of Ravensworth Castle, which, of old, belonged to the Barons Fitzhugh ; of Gilling, a pleasant seat of the Whartons ; and Aske, a noble seat of the Baron of that ancient and honourable name, where Sir Thomas Wharton, a most religious knight, and father to the truly piovfs, as well as noble Peer, Philip Lord Wharton, now living, died before his father, the old Lord, A.D. 1627, whose deserved praises Mr. Wales exemplifies in his Totum Hominis. We passed the river Swale, (which our predecessors reputed sacred, for Paulinus's baptizing therein ten thousand men in one day, when the English-Saxons first embraced Christianity,) at Catterick, so called from the catadupa, a little above this small town, now chiefly worthy of note for Mr. Siddal's benefaction, and the monuments in the church for the ancient family of the Burghs, of Burgh ; and the later alms-houses (for four poor persons) erected by Sir Strafford Braithwait (who was slain at sea, latter end of Charles II. or beginning of James II.) but a famous city in the Roman times, being their Cataractonium, and eminent amongst the Saxons, King Ethelred solemnizing here his marriage with King Offa's daughter; but it was burnt, A.D. 769, by Eanred, one of whose brass coins I have, found nigh the Roman highway upon Peckfield. From Catterick we passed through Leerning-town and part of the noted Long lane, and then by several country towns, of which Burniston must not be omitted, for worthy Dr. Robinson's sake, once their vicar, (yet living retiredly and piously with his kinsman, at Ripley,) who has built, and amply endowed, a very curious hospital for six poor persons, who have each 4/. IDs. per annum, and a school, whose head-master has 16/. per annum, and the usher 71. in all 50/. per annum ; whose lively character is extant, in A Treatise of Faith, by a Dying Divine, 8vo. To Ripon, where we stayed not to make any observations, pressing forwards in hopes of what surmounted our morning expectations of reaching home, which, blessed be God, I did, though some hours within night, but we experienced much of the goodness of God, in the protection of us in our journeys and our families at home, where I found all well, though the small-pox round about us, of which my poor brother Jeremiah Thoresby's daughter, Ruth, died last fast-day, the 19th inst. Evening, read Assembly's Annotations in family.
28. Morning, lay too long, but was much better, though scarcely able to swallow either meat or drink: read Annotations; then to visit dear brother Jeremiah and sister; after with brother Rayner, making known to Mother Sykes the circumstances of the estate and family in the North : after at cousin Whitaker's ; then walked with my dear to Kirkstall, to see my daughter Betty; returned late enough.
29. Morning, read Annotations: then with relations and Dr. M. at Mill-hill, farther discoursing ditto concern, and writing to Esquire S. to prevent any farther proceeds: after with Mr. Ibbetson, cousin F. and brother Th.; so part of the evening, &c.
30. Die Dom. Morning. Dr. Manlove preached excellently from Rom. i. 16, was upon the second doctrine, that the Gospel of Jesus Christ is the instrument or means God makes use of for the salvation of poor sinners. Evening, discoursing Dr. Manlove about the young man, who again solicitously applied himself, with tears, &c. to be a minister.
Oct. 1. Morning, with the rest of the lords of the manor, constituting constables for the year ensuing ; had Mr. Mayor's company, old cousin Hick, now this fourth time, chief magistrate of this borough: after walked to Sheepscar ; read Annotations ; dined with the lords, and with them subscribed Mr. So-rocold's lease for the new water-works; afterwards assisting several widows in their fee-farm rents, from father's papers, to rectify mistakes ; then with Dr. Manlove, &c.
6. Morning, read Annotations ; then at Sheepscar : afternoon, at funeral of my honoured and dear friend, Mr. Thornton's lovely child, heartily sympathized with him : enjoyed the ingenious Dr. Richardson's company upon that occasion.
17. Morning, consulting Camden, and writing Journal: about three, at the new water-works ; a most ingenious contrivance.
15. Paying fee-farm rent for the park to the Duke of Leeds's receiver.
17. Morning, writing to Mr. Frankland, &c. ; read Annotations; writing till noon. After, rode with some friends to Rodwell, to meet Dr. Manlove, and conduct his modest wife to town ; but stayed at cousin F.'s at H.; and after with ditto good company at brother W.'s till pretty late.
26. Morning, read Annotations. Forenoon, with Esquire Rodes and cousin Whitaker. Then at funeral of young Esquire Atkinson, dead in the prime of his days. The Vicar preached excellently from 1 Cor. v. 32, concerning the resurrection of the dead.
31. Morning, read Annotations; then with Mr. Ibbetson to see the statutes, now first time kept at Leeds, wherein servants stand to be hired in the open market-place, in great numbers, of both sexes. Had Dr. Manlove, cousin Whitaker, and many friends to dinner. Evening, received a visit from Esquire Liddall, (Sir John Bright's son-in-law,) to view curiosities.
Nov. 5. Reading ; wrote to the Archdeacon ; then attended in public. Dr. Manlove preached well and suitably to this memorable anniversary, from Rom. xii. 1. Was after with him, and Mr. Whitaker, at Mr. Ibbetson's ; but fell into an ungrateful discourse, which much discomposed my spirits. Lord ! pity this poor divided land, and heal the breaches thereof; for thy mercy's sake moderate the spirit of all parties, and make all concur in serious endeavours to promote the power of religion, without bitter reflections upon each other ; which were so afflictive to me, as to disturb me both awake and asleep.
7. Morning, reading. Forenoon, writing. Dined with Dr. M. and Mr. W. and other good friends, at cousin F.'s, at Hunslet; where enjoyed good company till evening. But then the spirit revived, which, in my poor judgment, is too bitter and uncharitable. Lord, pity, pardon, and heal us !
20, Morning, read Annotations. Much of forenoon, about cousin F.'s concern with Lords of Manor. After, at Mill-hill. Evening, with Dr. Manlove, Mr. Ibbetson, cousin F. and brother, yet much dejected for the alteration in a friend's countenance, occasioned, I presume, through his mistake of the grounds of my attendance upon the public, which is not dislike of the private ministry, but to promote a brotherly love amongst all good Christians of whatever denomination, which censorious accusation of one another doth destroy ; and because I apprehend it my duty to go as far as I can, possibly, in a national concord in religion, as the most excellent Mr. Baxter judiciously states it in his Catholic Communion. The apprehension of a growing prevalency of a contrary temper in some of my dearly-beloved acquaintance, has several times of late much dejected me, and somewhat of godly sorrow (I hope) for the divisions of this poor afflicted church and sinful nation, has kept me waking some part of the solitary night, wherein I desired to humble myself before the Lord for my particular provocations, which have had too great a share, &c. The Vicar preached excellently this evening, at the funeral of Aldress Iveson. I was much affected, I hope I may say edified ; but upon my return, sent for my ditto good friends, some of whose zeal, in different sentiments, I could
well enough digest, might I but enjoy my own without censure, &c. which much afflicts me.
21. Morning, read Annotations ; after, to discourse Dr. Manlove alone, about ditto concerns, which were a continued affliction to rne ; and, blessed be God ! we better understood one another, and my mind was much more easy. Was after employed collecting, &c. about chapel affairs. Evening, with Dr. M. friends, &c.
24. Wrote per post, read Annotations. Then, with Mr. B. D. to visit Mr. Elkana Hickson, whom we found weak beyond expectation, somewhat paralytic, yet very sensible: called me per name, and desired me to pray for him, which, upon my return home, I endeavoured in secret. And then walked with my dear to visit Betty at Kirkstall; and, upon return, surprised with the death of my said dear friend, who was thought might have continued several days. Visited his pious widow and afflicted family, with whom I cordially sympathized ; and walked, with a heavy heart, from one house of mourning to another, being sent for per the poor disconsolate sisters, to the orphans of poor Mrs. Smith, who died last night. Was much affected with this double breach, i
26. Morning, read Annotations in family ; writing to Mr. Stretton, concerning this mournful providence. After, at both the houses of mourning, and thence about the graves at New Church. Stayed awhile ruminating upon the dispossessed bones cast out at the grave's mouth ; and was after at the piteous funeral of my dear friend Mr. Elkana Hickson, and his own sister Smith, whose corpses were carried together to their graves, attended by the joint cries of the poor orphans and afflicted relations of both families.
Dec. 7. Morning read; with workmen till eleven ; then at private meeting at W. W.'s: after, had a branch from the main pipe fixed into the kitchen, to directing which, made me lose the beginning of an excellent sermon of Dr. Manlove's, the first preparatory for the Sacrament that was publicly preached at the chapel, the former being always at private houses.
16. Die Dom. My dear's indisposition continuing, sent for Dr. Manlove, who prescribed inter alia the Jesuits' bark, which seemed to do her much good. Was confined forenoon, but after, at New chapel, where Dr. Manlove preached well for cousin Whitaker, who began of an illness yesterday, not much unlike my dear's.
27. Morning read; , received a visit from Mr. Henry Thoresby of Newcastle ; then heard the commemoration sermon at the New-church, and recital of Mr. Harrison's noble benefactions, Mr. Artinstall of Hunslet preached from, " the greatest of these is charity." Afternoon, to visit lawyer Thornton, with whom discoursing of antiquities.
29. Morning, writing per post; forenoon within, after to gratify the Londoner's importunity, walked to show him Kirkstall Abbey; found a door open which I had never seen before, clambered up seventy-seven steps to a pinnacle; there are seven pillars on each side from those upon which the steeple stands to the west end ; at the east, three chapels for the several altars on either side the high altar; in viewing the ruins of the lodgings and the out apartments near the river, was pleased to find some of the British or Roman bricks.