A. D. 1682.
Jan. 1. In the morning with several friends consulting
; several of the Spiritual Court men being come to town : but it pleased
God to prevent our fears, &c.
10. Somewhat discouraged in mind, and troubled about concerns in this world, for want of a way of trade; which is so frequently a trouble to me, that I am ready to think it is the hand of God to keep me humble.
13. Morning writing of martyrs about the latter end of Henry the Eighth. Was all day writing, and much satisfied till evening, when sent for to some company, Mr. Vandro, the Dutch painter, &c. though stayed not long, yet not the best employed.
24. With others, of better account than myself, to see a wonderful sight, a native Irishman, Edmund Mallory, (of whom see Dr. Plot's Staffordshire, p. 294,) born about twenty miles from Dublin, about sixteen years old, two yards and a half tall, wanting about two inches, and all parts proportionable, except legs, which were rather too slender for so vast a body. Some friends came home with me, and we sat up rather too late.
February 8. Writing of Heraldry till noon, then at Mrs. Scarborough's till evening, observing the way of casting waxen images.
11. Forenoon casting some medals and figures in plaster, with good success; but afternoon not spent so innocently, being called for by Mr. E. H. and though not in bad company, yet rather too free. Rise in the night to see the noted eclipse of the moon, reminding me of that text wherein the sun's being turned to darkness, and the moon into blood, (and so it seemed to be in the midst of this dark eclipse,) are recorded.
13. Forenoon employed chiefly in cementing the broken pieces of a large, ancient figure of Seneca's head, that worthy philosopher: after, writing of some pedigrees,
23. Up about four, transcribing the Earl of Northumberland's funeral sermon till day, most of which was spent in drawing the pictures of Cardinal Wol-sey and Queen Catharine Dowager, from Burnet's History, &c.
25. Having rested badly, lay longer than ordinary ; most of the day drawing in Indian ink the effigies of Queen Ann Bullen, Bishop Fisher, and Dr. Collet; was mightily ashamed of myself, when I perused the pious and incomparable Lord Harrington's life; who, though a courtier, and in the prime of his days, was a most admirable example of true piety.
28. Most of the day spent in company at the marriage of Mrs. Mary Sykes with Mr. Thomas Rayner. Evening, sat up rather too late with young company.
March 1. Morning, when Mr. Sykes had prayed well with the family, the old gentlewoman, a Quaker, made a very seasonable exhortation to rejoice in the Lord, and that Satan might not get advantage by our carnal mirth; the more proper being in her son's private house, (though a vast company of men and women,) and upon this occasion; else I am taught a woman's duty is rather to learn in silence than teach in public; afterwards, officiated as a servitor, and employed in like affairs not only the day, but too much of the night.
9. Morning reading; then cleansing the Misery of War, and other pictures, and employed about such affairs till five; then worse employed, though not in bad company, till pretty late.
24. Up at five, writing much of that prudent, just, pious, and valorous Prince, Algernon, Earl of Northumberland; then about pictures, and attending relations till four ; then sent for by Mr. I. of Lynn, to the Talbot; stayed too late, and was much troubled to see the besottedness of some persons there before.
25. Lay sluggishly till almost seven ; sent for immediately to Mrs, S. to compose some differences betwixt two neighbours; employed there about it not in the morning only, but too late at night, even till twelve; the afternoon was spent with friends, &c.
27. Lay too long, and was then immediately called out to make peace betwixt two neighbours, of different nations, which, with other help, was at last effected; was then at the funeral of honest Mr. Lever, a sound, orthodox, and ingenious man. After dinner attending cousins, mostly at uncle M. I.'s. Alas ! how much of the short time I have to remain in this tabernacle of clay am I constrained thus to spend in vanity. Evening also spent in the like offices.
28. So too much of this day, especially the afternoon, (when with them to see the activity of a tumbler on the stage,) spent in the like waste work, which somewhat disordered me; for, alas! what answer can I make for all this lost time!
April 5. Forenoon with cousin Thoresbys, of Sykehouse,
who, notwithstanding former unkind-nesses, (endeavours to deprive me
of the estate in the north) have been very welcome in their present
straits to my house, but have exceedingly straitened me for time about
better things, and made me lose much of that precious commodity in every
respect. After their departure, was at Mr. B. D.'s, and at uncle M.
I.'s, which took up most of the afternoon, as the sight of some baboons,
bear, and wolf did the evening.
6. Was the whole day entirely at the new garden, by the water, overseeing workfolk, and reading Sir William Waller's Divine Meditations, which I thought exceedingly sweet and agreeable, especially his content in his study, books, and a solitary life. But, Lord! teach me, as the holy author desires, so to study other men's works, as not to neglect rny own good : take me off from the curiosity of knowing only to know, from the vanity of knowing only to be known, and from the folly of pretending to know more than I do know, and let it be my wisdom to study to know thee, who art life eternal. Afternoon was much afflicted with what I heard of the foolish actions and wicked words of a near relation, so near and dear to me that it wounded me to the very heart.
17. Rode with aunt Idle to Tong, to procure flowers for the new garden, of the noted florist there; but was severely wet, and not without danger in passing a small rivulet prodigiously risen with the thunder-showers, but got well home.
18. Up before four, writing, then setting ditto roots till about six, then rode to York with sister. Had company of several relations of Mrs. Hickson, (where left her) that somewhat mitigated the trouble of the rainy journey.
19. Up pretty early, in order to a Hull journey, which was prevented by the wetness of the season. Spent the forenoon in viewing the Minster monuments. After, in visits with ditto company.
20. Forenoon abroad, viewing the Tower with the armoury for about 3000 men, the dungeon, &c. with a large crocodile (about four yards long).
26. Rose not early this morning; till ten collecting for Mr. Sharp, who would not be prevented by the uncomfortableness of the season, nor danger of the floods, but came to do good.
May 5. Rode to Snidall. Paid Aunt the full of this
year's gratuity. Went on to Pontefract; found an unexpected occasion
to manifest charity to Uncle Captain Thoresby's widow, now ruined through
the extravagance of her son. Oh, how sadly is this once flourishing
family now changed, since my grandfather (not to mention former ages,
when our ancestors lived at, and were Lords of Thoresby, Sedbar, Dent,
&c.) then chief magistrate, with his four sons and their wives,
were in their meridian splendour. Dr. Johnston being out of town, returned
the sooner with Mr. E. H.; but stayed too late at his house.
6. Lay too long in the morning. After, taking leave of Alderman Jackson, of Carlisle, which lost most of the forenoon; as some little accounts and discourse with my good old servant, Judith, who is about altering her condition, did the after. Abroad till after seven ; then reading in Mr. Young's Christian Library.
13. Forenoon, with Cousin W. and advising with Mr. B. D.; then writing till noon. Afternoon, visiting Aunt Lucy, but spent most of it in reading the Apology for Nonconformists, in my poor judgment well done; in answer to the High Tories, that are for closing with the Papists, rather than Protestant Dissenters.
June 1. Morning, writing letters; then at the marriage of Nehemiah Cloudesley by old Mr. Armi-tage. Discoursing him concerning old Mr. Saxton :* except an hour or two in the afternoon, and about as much in the evening, that I was with Mr. Illing-worth. Spent the whole day at the wedding house, and most of the night, it being too late ere I could get away.
2. Up again before three, in preparation for a Journey with ditto Mr. Illingworth. Was much Satisfied with his learned discourses, and many remarkable stories concerning almost all places we travelled through, particularly concerning the last of the family of the Elands, of Eland, slain at Both-omley Wood, by the children of those knights he had before barbarously murdered when High Sheriff. Upon the height of Blackstone-edge, we left Yorkshire, and had a pleasant prospect of Lancashire in a fruitful vale below, where stands Littleborrow, a country town, and, somewhat beyond, Cleghall on the one hand, and Howard on the other, the ancient seat of the famous family of that name. Not far from Rochdale, a fair market town, is Hopwood-hall, the seat of the famous Justice Hopwood, whose memory I exceedingly honour for the many good offices he performed to the good old Lancashire Puritans, and the many remarkable passages related of him by the ingenious Mr. Illingworth, who hath promised me copies of many of his letters, wherein he gives very favourable characters of the good old Nonconformist ministers, Midgeley Sen., Langley, &c. to the Bishop. Thence by Middleton, where the church has a wooden steeple, built almost like a dove-coat, but a living of.... per ann, and has been in the name of the Ashtons since long before the Re~ formation, Thence within view of the house where Ralph Brideoak, late Bishop of Chichester, was born, to the famous town of Manchester, where
3. I was employed from morning to evening, observing the library and college richly endowed for the maintenance of sixty blue coat boys, by the eminent benefactor, Mr. Humphrey Chetharn, sheriff, eleventh of Charles I. ; was also in Salford, and the Collegiate church, writing the inscriptions from monuments of Huntingdon, the first, and Heyrick, the last (and fourteenth) warden, from those of the Rad-cliffes, Howards, &c., assisted by the ingenious Mr. James Illingworth, the worthy President of Emanuel College, Cambridge.
4. Designed for the Morning Sermon but missed the beginning, which I was more concerned for, because the latter part was so good ; then heard Mr. Warden.
5. Morning, rose early, by three, or sooner, designing a journey to Chester, though not so well furnished as I should, having consulted neither Camden nor Fuller, not designing further than Manchester, near unto which is seated Hulrn, the present habitation of Judge Moseley, and not much distant Ordesal, the ancient seat of the warlike family of the Radcliffes, now Colonel Birch's, and thence by the river Mersey to Trafford, whence a family of great note has their name ; thence to Bowden, in Cheshire, where I found in the church a stately monument of the Breretons, (of which family Camden has a remarkable story of some trees floating in Bagmere, only upon the death of the heirs), Warburtons and Booths of Dunham, now deservedly honoured with the title of Lord Delamere; as for the inscriptions, vid. my Collection of Epitaphs, p. 171. Upon the hill I had a fair prospect of the country ; Baggeleigh, the ancient seat of the Baggeleighs, now Leighs of Baggeleigh; Rawston church, where, as I was informed by Mr. Martindale, chaplain to the Lord Delamere, is an ancient monument of a knight in armour, of the Venables' (patrons of the living) which has been of great reputation ever since the Norman Conquest, and the Leighs of High Leigh, another ancient family : but the most noted in this age is the Booths of Dunham, by reason of that famous knight, Sir George Booth, now Lord Delamere, and not far off Henry Booth, Esq. a learned and pious gentleman. Thence through a most pleasant vale abounding with wood and fruitful pastures, which produces the famous Cheshire cheese, to Nor-wiche, a pretty market town, in which pleasant vale Sir Robert Leicester's, a pretty seat, is not to be omitted; thence through a delicate country to the famous forest of Delamere, now honoured by giving honour to that worthy knight, by the Chamber in the Forest, (some houses seated upon the height of the hill and seen far off,) to Tarvin, whereabout we have a prospect of Beeston Castle, about five miles off seated upon a high towering hill, and seems to me not very unlike Stirling, or Maiden Castle, in Edinburgh for the situation. It was built by the last Ra-nulph, Earl of Chester, that ancient and famous city where I spent the rest of the day, (except about two or three hours discourse with Dr. Bispham, the ancient sub-dean of Chester and Alderman Floyd, about the antiquities of the town) mostly in the churches of St. Werburgh, St. John Baptist, and St. Mary, but met with a disappointment as to tombs of bishops ; this being one of the bishoprics of the royal foundation by King Henry VIII. there can be none of any great antiquity : of the modern bishops, none are buried there but Dr. Hall and Dr. Bridge-man, (brother to the famous Lord Keeper) late Bishop of the Isles, who dying about May, 1682, was interred in St. Werburgh's, but as yet there is no monument or inscription. Evening, I walked round the walls ; observed the situation of the city, and had a prospect of Wales towards Flint; the walls are kept in excellent repair by the Muringers.
6. Up pretty early writing; took a view of the Castle, in which is the Hall for the Judges, inferior to none in England, that I have seen, except Westminster. In St. Peter's church, I found a remarkable tomb for the Offleys, great benefactors ; and in the pentis or town-house, his picture, with Mr. Randall's, and Sir Thomas White's, with an account of their pious gifts, and of Broughtons, from which pentis there is a curious prospect into the four best streets, in all which, and indeed, most of the city, we may pass through the rows in a stormy day without the least rain or prejudice; it is a sort of building peculiar to this city, the like they say not being to be seen in Europe again; they are as walks chambered above, and cellared below, with shops mostly on both sides. From this ancient city (though I could find few monuments of antiquity in memory of the famous Earls of Chester) I departed about ten o'clock, and rode through a very pleasant country, and over a remarkable hill called Helsby Tor, (a Derbyshire word I think, for crag, or rock,) to Frodsham, near which we have a most pleasant prospect of Rock Savage, a stately house, formerly belonging to the Savages, and now to the Earl of Rivers, on the one hand, and a delicate new building of Sir Willoughby Aston's, on the other, with delicate gardens, &c,; seven miles further stands Warrington, a pretty market town, upon the Mersey, in Lancashire, whereof the Butlers were lords ; in memory of some of which family is an ancient monument of a Knight in armour, and a modern white one for Sir George Butler, slain in the wars, and his lady ; thence by Eccles, where is a stately monument for another branch of the numerous family of the Breretons, to Manchester.
7. Employed in observing the Earl of Derby's and Chetham's chapels in Manchester Collegiate Church, walking abroad in the town, and taking leave of Mr. Newcome, a worthy good man and pious divine.
8. Took leave of the learned and ingenious Mr. Illingworth, and of Manchester, famous for the vast quantity of wares and commodities made there, whereof I was most taken with their inkles, eighteen several pieces whereof they can weave in the same loom. Got very well home with the other company.
19. At Mr. Scudamore's to see his collections of heraldry, wrhich merit commendation.
30. After four at Mrs. R's. perusing her brother's, Mr. Lever's choice collection of books. Thus one month more of my short pilgrimage is slipt away never to be recalled.
July 1. Morning writing at Mr. Rooke's. After with
cousins F. and L at Ledston-hall, had the opportunity of discoursing
with Mr. Bean concerning some memoirs of the famous Sir John Lewys,
whose manuscript I have by me.
2. Die Dom. Mr. Kein had not only a well worded but serious affectionate discourse concerning the last judgment. Mr. Sharp had a learned discourse from Micah ii. 7. Doctrine, that the word of God is a means of good to them that walk uprightly; if this word bring not life it brings death. Evening, disturbed by a message from the Lady Dalston and her sister (since Countess of Wiltshire)! introduced by Madam Dawkrey to see my collection of rarities and coins, which with reluctance I resisted, because of the unseasonableness, with proffer of service to-morrow, whereby I avoided the outward breach of the command. But, alas! my vain thoughts, like tinder, are easily enflamed, and any good motion like a spark quickly extinguished.
4. Morning abroad inquisitive after public concerns. Forenoon advising with Mr. B. D.; after till near three with Mr. E. H. expecting but disappointed of his company at G's., where several were consulting about our public liberties now in much hazard.
5. Morning at old Mr. Boyse's writing London letters, and advising with Mr. Sharp ; showed the order of Court for suppressing conventicles, which with other circumstances (the officers having surprised Brook and got the key of the chapel) prevented our public assembly, but through mercy enjoyed in private an excellent sermon, from Hos. vi. 1. Doctrine, that God's people in afflictions may promise themselves mercy upon their returning to him. Showing that mercy is not absolutely ready for them but only upon their renewed repentance ; the stress is not to be laid upon our first repentance before afflictions, but upon that renewed under them. Old repentance will not serve for new guilt. Added a word of caution that temporal deliverances could not be expected at the very juncture of repentance like spiritual pardon might, but in God's due time, which is best: then came to the grounds upon which mercy may be expected ; viz. upon our returning to God, as it is a condition of the promise, else our returning in itself, strictly taken, can no more oblige God to show mercy than a beggar's coming to receive alms doth the giver, who only is bound by his promise. 1st. Use for doctrine : it teaches 1st. wherein our security, comfort, and peace doth consist in an evil day; not in carnal confidence, but in returning to the Lord, who is both shield and buckler; the world and sin are but like eclipsing evils, which interposing betwixt God and our souls, deprive us of all light and comfort, as the body of the earth betwixt the sun and moon, which of itself is but a globe of mere darkness, 2. That the goodness that is in us cannot merit any thing of God. 3. That the wicked who are apt to promise themselves most have least reason to expect mercy. .... Dined with Mr. Sharp at E. H's,, then consulting where to meet on Lord's-day.
6. Morning up writing; then at cousin Fenton's christening, and to visit Stittenham friends, stayed there late in the evening, but avoided even the tendency to intemperance, notwithstanding solicitations, which I take notice of not for self-applause, but for the praise of God, who is a God hearing prayers.
7. Forenoon with the haymakers, and at Mr. R's.; but after till about four at Mr. B. D's., advising— then with relations till late in the evening.
9. Die Dom. Much affected in meditation of the inexpressible loss of our public liberties, which cost me multitudes of tears and sighs, and yet infinitely short of the bitterness of heart that might, and should have seized upon me for those crying sins that have provoked God to deprive us of a mercy that certainly is more valuable than all the world besides. Lord, help me to forbear murmuring at man who is only thy instrument, and to take revenge upon my own corruptions, that are the meritorious cause of these sad dispensations ; and do thou graciously pour down a double blessing upon thy word dispensed in private. After ten, walked to Holbeck, to late uncle Idle's house (now Mr. Scur's) where, through mercy, we enjoyed the learned labours of worthy Mr. Sharp, from Micah ii. 7, which he now concluded, being upon the fourth use for instruction, how we must do to profit by the word, and walk uprightly. I. With a troubled spirit reflect upon the little good thou hast obtained. 2. Renounce the evils that are contrary. 3. Receive the word for its own ends. 4. Possess yourselves of it by a particular application. 5. Digest the word of God. 6. Labour to get the Spirit, whose hand is not shortened. 7. Labour to find out your defects. 8. Look unto Jesus Christ, the essential work of God; it is life above all to know him as thy possession. There are three sorts of good things that the mind of man looks upon—what is pleasant, profitable, and honourable, and the end of God is also these. 1. It brings with it more true and satisfactory pleasure soner in York Castle, merely for conscience sake,) and widow Bell. The Lord doth more than reward anything that is done in uprightness of heart for his poor suffering servants.
26. Up about four, to hear Mr. Ward at cousin I. I.'s, from Heb. x. 38.
30. Die Dom. Morning, and much of the forenoon, walking in the garden, reading or meditating; was sometimes much affected, especially with Dr. Wilkins9 incomparable treatise of Prayer. Mr. Sharp, from Isaiah Iv. 6, 7, made a most incomparable discourse, both learned and long, (not tedious) for he preached two hours and a half, by Mr. W.'s, and church clock.
Aug. 4. Lay till about six, then writing; doing some
little business before noon ; designed for the Spas ; we called at Mayor's,
and took Bardsey in our way, where Baron Thorp* lived, died, and lies
interred; got well thither; had the good, serious company of cousin
6. Die Dom. After water time in the morning, had the opportunity to hear good Mr. Gunter, but was indisposed with the waters which made me excessively drowsy. Afternoon, he preached from the same, Isaiah xxxviii. 14, being the prayer of Hezekiah upon his sick (and, as he thought, death) bed, of the plague. Was somewhat disturbed with the sight of an informer, who got cunningly into the meeting; but, blessed be God, for restraining him from doing any harm as yet.
8. Morning, spent this also, as the former, in the course of the Spas, but lost cousin I. and Mr. Gunter s company, a greater loss, because good company so scarce.
12. Up before five, writing; rid to Halifax, had the pleasing society of Mr. Brearcliffe, the ingenious antiquary, who kindly lent me his manuscript collection ; in return, visited Mr. Sharp, &c.
14. Rose pretty early. Most of the day taken up with visitants, to see Holroyd pass by to his execution, for the horrid murder of Mr. Scurr, his mother, and a maid-servant. After, rode to the moor, where were many thousand spectators; but, alas! frustrated exceedingly in their expectations, he dying in the most resolute manner that ever eye beheld, wishing (upon the top of the ladder) he might never come where God had anything to do if he was guilty, and so threw himself off in an anger as it were, without any recommendation of himself to God that any could observe, which struck tears into my eyes, and terror to my heart, for his poor soul, earnestly imploring, while I saw any signs of life, that God would give him repentance for his crying sins, and be better to him than his desires.
15. Morning, writing; most of the forenoon with Squire Lambert, (son to the old Lord General,) showing him my collection of coins, pictures, &c. and with Mr. Lodge, our townsman born, an ingenious traveller and painter; rest of the day abroad, about trivial occasions.
16, Writing to Rotterdam. Lord, succeed my lawful endeavours : this is the first I ever made trial of in this kind.
25. Up at five ; for an hour abroad about business; then transcribing from a manuscript till noon; after, taking a catalogue of English pictures till seven ; was then at Mr. T. S. and S. H., who came along with me to see the comet upon our turret. Lord, fit us for whatever changes or alterations it may portend; for, though I am not ignorant that such meteors proceed from natural causes, yet are frequently also the presages of imminent calamities.
26. Up at five, writing till noon, chiefly for Mr. B. D., Englishing the town's charter, and reading Sir John Lewys' manuscript account of Madagascar and Johanna; spent the afternoon idly, in visits at uncle M.'s and Mr. Whitaker's, though in good company, and not ill-employed, (perusing his library,) yet too little time redeemed for the unum necessarium.
29 Morning, up at five, writing; then showing our collection of coins to Dr. Howel, the learned Chancellor of Lincoln, who professed it was the most curious and complete collection he ever beheld, except one in France, wherein were 15,000/. in gold and silver medals.
31. Most of forenoon abroad with strangers, and discharging some messages; after, visited by Mr. Joseph Boyse, spent all the afternoon in his good company, visiting with him several friends.
Sept. 6. Up at five, perusing some part of Mr. Waterhouse's
manuscript, which he lent me yesterday, wherein he exactly hits the
mark, and avoids both extremes with great caution and prudence. Afternoon,
a great part in showing the collections to Squire Ramsden's daughters,
till about five.
7. Morning, up at five; rode to Wakefield, and after to Swaith-hall; and afternoon with cousin Wadsworth to Silkstone, viewed the delicate and noble tomb of Sir Thomas Wentworth, whose widow is since married to the Earl of Eglinton; saw the glass-houses.
8. Forenoon, at Wentworth, to see and transcribe the monuments of that ancient family, but found none erected yet for the Earl, but two curious ones for (his) father and grandfather, and Sir William Rokeby. After dinner returned home; had the company of the good old gentleman to Wakefield. This day, Mr. L. stabbed in the heart Nath. Hoy's man, with his shoemaker's knife, that it is feared he will die of it.
20. Lay till after five ; morning writ to London ; then at the Moor to see my kind friend Mr. Henry Fairfax, the soldiers trained, and a foot-race, three times round, above six measured miles, which they run in thirty or thirty-three minutes, at the utmost: cuique sua dos: afternoon writing, &c.
25. Employed in the upper study writing and reading till four. Evening at W. A.'s, discoursing with his former servant, now Dr. Newton, author of an Herbal, with cuts, in 8vo. to which subscribed 10s. as also did Mr. Samuel Ibbetson.
October 6. Morning reading a little; after rode with
ditto, E. H. to the funeral of the good, religious, Lady Barwick; but
could not stay to hear Mr. Corlass preach, which vexed me.
15. Die Dom. Mr. Milner, from Isaiah liv. 13, made a very learned discourse in confutation of our modern enthusiasts, who, upon pretence of being taught of the Lord, do slight all public Ordinances.
16. Evening sent for by lawyer Hilliard, an ingenious antiquary,* and Dr. Robinson, with whom spent some time pleasantly.
17. Most of the day abroad, partly with dear aunt Lucy Idle, condoling her great affliction in her son Thomas; spent rest of day and evening with ditto lawyer Hilliard, brother to the late Sir R. H.
31. Morning received a letter of bad news; imprisonment and persecution of many good ministers in Middlesex, merely for conscience sake; the Lord be their comfort; very much or most of the day abroad, about that and other occasions, with Mr. O. Heywood, Mr. Boyse, &c. with whom evening likewise spent to some satisfaction.
November 1. Morning up very early ; writing heads
of sermons till near eight; then writing to Newcastle; rest of forenoon
abroad, with worthy Mr. Heywood and Mr. Boyse, at Mr. E. H.'s, with
whom rode after dinner to honest Mr. Middle-brooke's, steward above
twenty years to the Earl of Sussex, to hear some remarkable stories
of old Sir John Savile, which took up rest of day.
2. Perusing Camden and Speed, in order to a northern journey, most of day; about three visited by Mr. Mann; after by Madame D. and Mrs. M. N. with whom spent the evening.
3. Employed as yesterday, consulting Fuller; then maps, till after three, when surprised with the sad news of Mr. Sharp's being dangerously sick, went abroad about that and some other occasions, but spent evening not so cautiously.
4. Morning, up pretty early writing; after with Mr. E. H. and T. W. rode to Little Horton, to visit worthy Mr. Sharp; whom, blessed be our gracious and merciful God, we found much better than we expected.
6. Morning up rather too early, about two, writing and perusing some books and papers, in order to a journey; after employed about some friends' concerns, and taking leave of relations till noon; then rode with Mr. Richard Mann by Harwood, where is an ancient castle, that has often changed the owners. In the church are some ancient tombs; the most remarkable is for Judge Gascoyne, of whom vid. Fuller's Worthies in Yorkshire ; then by Ripley, the seat of the ancient family of the Inglebys, whereof Sir William died this day at his prayers, (as informed by worthy Mr. Kirshaw, the minister,) of an impostume, having been twice at church the day before, and repeated sermon at night. We designed to have reached Massarn, but being benighted, got well, though in the dark, to Fountains.
7. Husbanded not the morning so well as might be; rid by, (and through mistake almost round,) the famous Abbey of Fountains, built by Thurstan, Archbishop of York ; formerly a stately Abbey, as appears by the very ruins, now full of trees, within the very body of it; and a stately modern hall, with Benedicite Fontes, Domine inscribed upon the portal. Thence we rid to Ripon, which boasts of a stately Cathedral Church, wherein is St. Winifred's needle and some tombs; thence by Stavely, where Justice Stavely, a great traveller, has a pretty seat, to Tan-field, which has a pretty tower, belonging to the Earl of Elgin, and a church, with monuments of the ancient family of the Fitz Hughs, and a Free-School, built and endowed by the Lady Diana Cecil, (of the Earl of Exeter's family,) first married to the Earl of Oxford, and then to the Earl of Aylesbury, to whose son she married her niece ; and, having no children of her own, left them a great estate, and built there a Free School, which she endowed with 251. per annum, as I was informed by Mr. Hutchinson, the master and hired minister. Thence by Wells, a pretty country town, with a handsome church, by Snape Hall, a stately fabric of the .* now by marriage of one of his co-heirs, the Earl of Ayles-bury's; after, not far from Thorp Hall, now the Lady Danby's; and near Bedal had a prospect, at a distance, of Hornby Castle. Bedal is a pretty market town, which has a handsome church, with several old monuments, particularly a very stately one of a knight cross-legged, in armour, and his lady, curiously cut in stone to their full proportion; as one in the wall, which I could fancy some Bishop. There is another knight in armour, with his shield, a chevron betwixt three roses, but without any inscription ; as also is one of the Escues, near Fitz Alan's; and another nearer the door, of a knight in armour, with a lion at his feet, but could not be informed of what families. I transcribed only that of Lambert and Young.
Here is also a Free School, to which some of the Wrays, either Sir Christopher or Sir John, was a benefactor; and an hospital of Mr. Young's for three poor widows, who have each 40s. per annum, which was lately recovered to their use by Sir Miles Stapleton ; who has the disposal of 100/. left by another Mr. Young, who died about twenty years since, the interest whereof is yearly disposed of for the education of youth, or some other charitable purpose, as informed by ditto clerk. In a mile whereof, at Firby, is an hospital built by Mr. Clap-ham for six poor old men, and a master, who have each 5s. per month, (two-pence per day) beside coats, caps, gowns, &c. and each a pretty orchard, and the master more. He left also to the disposal of Bedal Church six five-marks, to be lent gratis, for three years, to six or twelve poor tradesmen. Thence, by Catterick, where is a pretty hospital, built and liberally endowed by Mr. Siddall (born at York) their Vicar. In the church is an ancient monument of a knight in armour, for one of the Saltmarsh's, as supposed ; and several curious large blue stones, with statues in brass, and inscriptions as old as 1412, for the Burghs, of Burgh, hard by ; where now inhabits Sir John Lawson, whose lady, and Lady Braithwait, are here interred, but without any inscription.
8. From Catterick-we rid to Piercebridge, an ancient Roman colony, where have been dug up many of their coins and inscriptions, particularly that altar I have at home. It is now a poor village, without either church or chapel. Thence, by Walworth-hall, a delicate seat of the Jenisons, built archwise with turrets. Thence, by Highinton and Elden, to Kirkmarinton, the church whereof is built upon so high a hill that it is seen many miles off. There, had a prospect of Durham Abbey, whither (leaving Branspeth Castle, the delicately pleasant seat of the ingenious Sir Ralph Cole, on the left hand) we arrived in time to observe the antiquities of St. Cuthbert and his Cow (cut in stone upon the Minster,) and venerable Bede, who lies interred under a stately blue marble, but without inscription save this, handsomely chalked round the edge, Hac sunt in fossa Bedae venerabilis ossa. Observed too, the Castle and Bishop's Palace, much built and beautified by the memorable Bishops Tonstal and Cousins, who built also the alms-houses in the Square, and the Library, as appears by the arms fixed upon them in many eminent places. Viewed also the Tolbooth and Cross, built by ditto Tonstal; and spent much of the evening with Cousin Mich. Walker's.
9. Morning, rode to Chester, and stayed with Aunt Thoresby and cousins. Wrote some of the inscriptions of the tombs of the Lords Lumley, from Lyulph the first, who flourished in King William the Conqueror's time, and was a great cherisher of St. Cuthbert; whose ancient monuments scattered in the neighbouring abbeys, and at Durham, were collected and placed there in a curious delicate manner, by John, ninth lord. Thence, got well to Newcastle ; spent the evening in business, viewing the town, &c.
10. Up very early, and having dispatched business, rode with ditto Mr. Richard Mann to North Shields. By the way had a sight of a pleasant hall of Mr. Clark's, now Captain Bickerstaff's. Went to view Clifford Fort; copied the inscription. It is fortified with forty cannons. Had a prospect of Tinmouth Castle, and ancient church ; and below, of the Spanish fort, built close by the sea by Queen Elizabeth. After having observed their way of boiling salt, ferried over to South Shields. Thence, through Weston, and within sight of Whitburn, by the sea to Hilton, the seat of an ancient family of that name ; whereof Baronet Hilton (as the report is, from some private dissatisfaction because of his marriage with an inferior woman, which put him upon a resolution that none from her should heir above 100/. per annum) gave the ancient estate (being about 3000/. per annum) to charitable uses> making the Lord Mayor of London and Aldermen trustees, for the term of one hundred or else one thousand years, wanting one. Thence, by Cle-den and Fulwell, to Monck-Wearmouth, where Sir Thomas Williamson has a pleasant house and gardens. Thence ferried over to Sunderland, where we lodged.
11. Having overnight observed what was remarkable in Sunderland, which is of late grown to a considerable repute and resource for coals and salt, rode through Bishops-Wearmouth ; which was, saith Camden, much beautified with chapels by Benedict Bischop, who first procured masons and glaziers in England. Thence, through some country towns, Easington, &c. to Hartinpoole, where transcribed some things from the ancient church, now much ruined, as all the town, which has been of great repute and circumference, as appears by the large walls, &c. and two very old monuments, to the full proportion of a knight and his lady, in the church-yard, and a large marble over the ancient vault for the ...... It now consists mostly of shippers, fishers, &c. to the poor whereof ditto Hilton, Baronet, left 24/. per annum (though now it amounts not to above 161.). Thence over the sands to Cre-tham, where is a very old hospital, built by Robert, Bishop of Durham, for thirteen poor men, who have 40s. per annum, and have an old chapel for Beadsmen's prayers. Thence to Billinghani, the ale whereof is noted in Northumberland, Durham, &c.; through Norton to Stockton, which has a pretty Town-house and handsome buildings, but of no antiquity, but very prettily covered with Dutch tiles.
12. Die Dom. The vicar (this being only a chapel of ease) preached from Psm. xxxiv. 9, " Fear the Lord;" showed prettily how apt we are to fear such things as are seldom observed, or that appear in an extraordinary manner, as eclipses, lightnings, thunders, &c. which proceed even from natural causes, and yet how few make them arguments to fear the Lord, who made the heavens and earth ; and then for comets, apparitions, whales, what strange effects they have upon vulgar apprehensions ; and then gave a lash or two at the poor Dissenters, if not at serious piety, under the odious name of Presbyterians, full of fears and needless jealousies, and tumultuary petitions ; but, saith he, " if we did but aright fear the Lord, we should not need to fear Pope, or French, or Presbyterians." After dinner, I thought to have rode some miles to a sermon, but could not hear of one in the whole country; so went to hear the town minister, after prayers, catechise children, and expound, which I was glad to observe, in a plain, profitable manner, for instructing the vulgar; he was upon the eighth Command, and having before in-sisted upon the several sorts of stealth, theft, robbery, oppression, sacrilege; and showed well the reason of all this to be from want of content with the state and condition wherein God has set us, and advised very honestly to that great duty, from the danger of the contrary error, which without repentance would ruin the soul, which was more worth than the whole world.
13. Morning up pretty early; ferried over the river at Stockton, thence to Acklam, where Sir William Hustler has a pretty seat, thence through a blind cross-road, to Marton, a church-town, and thence over the bad moors to Gisborough, famous for a stately abbey, built Anno Dom. 1119, by Robert Lord Brus, and the ruins whereof discover it to have been a spacious and stately fabric: in the church is a delicate altar made of an old marble, about three yards long, which some say was a tomb-stone in the quire, the sides whereof are yet to be seen in the church, upon each whereof I counted five statues with escutcheons, and most of the ten figures were in armour, but could receive no account of what family, but could fancy it the founder's. In the church-yard is an old hospital, built by one of the abbots, (but by what particular one I find not) for six poor men, and as many women, each whereof have fourteen pence per week; and under the same roof a free school with twelve pounds per arm. salary for a master ; thence over the rotten Moors for many miles without anything observable; the sea at a small distance upon the left; and upon the right hand, hills, whereof a round one, called Roseberry Topping, is a mark for sailors ; within a few miles of Whitby, we passed not far from Runs wick, the place where, near by the sea-side, stood a little village of six or ten houses the last spring, of which I find from credible persons, the report we had of its being swallowed up of the earth, too true, though blessed be God, all the inhabitants were saved, they happening to be at a kind of wake (as the old manner is) at the house of a person immediately deceased, where observing the earth to crack and gape, made all their escape; shortly after which, the chinks grew suddenly wide, and the houses fell into the gulf. On the right hand we left Moulgrave Castle, that ancient fabric, and passed through Lith, a pretty country town ; thence over the Sands to Whitby.
14. Morning walking and observing the town, especially the famous old abbey, built by St. Hilda, to whose sanctity they impute the falling down dead of the wild geese when they fly over the adjoining fields. Of which inquiring, could only be thus far satisfied, that such fowls flying in shoals, do seldom alight there, in the Strand, as they call their lordship, but fly to the inland where is plenty of corn, the want whereof they look upon as the main [cause.] But I was informed of another odd but ancient custom, upon this account: some of the neighbouring gentry, particularly the Allensons, were hunting the wild boar, which being hotly pursued took shelter in a little chapel about three miles off, where a devout friar was at prayer, who being unwilling to have the holy place polluted with blood, shut the doors to prevent the dogs and hunters, one of which in the height of his fury ran him through at one of the chinks of the door, whereupon all their lands were confiscated, only afterwards mitigated by the Abbot upon this penance, that every Holy Thursday eve they should make a hedge with a penny whittle, about three or four yards within the river, and all the while a horn sounding upon the shore; which said penalty was enjoined them till it should happen to be high water that eve, which ever since, you must believe to be miraculously prevented, (vid. old writings of Sir Hugh Cholmley's, being the Records of the Abbey.) Whatever the former part of the story has of truth, I know not, but most true it is, that to this year (for I was credibly informed by several worthy persons that were eye-witnesses of it the last Holy Thursday's eve) the heirs of that fa-mily do hold their estate upon that tenure to this very day, and do yearly make a hedge there : but the miracle is taken away when we consider that the festival is always upon such a day of the moon which by a natural cause produces the said effect • viz. that it is always low water upon that eve. Adjoining to the Abbey, Sir Hugh Cholmley has a most delicate and stately hall, supposed to be exceeded by few in England for the bigness of it. The hall is of freestone, with large courts and walks with iron grates and a curious statue in solid brass as large as the life in the midst of the square, with a delicate bowling-green, gardens, &c. which are extremely pleasant. Upon the hill is an old cross, and in the churchyard are several ancient tombstones, some with plain, others wrought crosses upon them, removed, I presume, from the abbey. In the church is a pretty monument for Sir Richard Cholmley ; it stands very high; I counted about one hundred and ninety steps as I came down the hill. At the foot of the cliffs and rocks are found the stony wreathed serpents Camden mentions, which are likewise ascribed to the sanctity of ditto Hilda, who converted all the snakes wherewith the country was then mightily annoyed, into these stones, several of which, and one especially of an extraordinary bigness, I brought along with me. I gathered some out of the hard black rock, cutting them out with a knife, but look upon them merely as the sport of nature, as variety of instances may sufficiently demonstrate. Whitby has a secure harbour for vessels, which by a drawbridge, after the Dutch manner, are let into the town, which is of good esteem for trade. Thence four miles to Robin Hood's Bay, so named from that famous outlaw, who was born in Nottinghamshire, and flourished temp. Ricardi I. Thence over the sands to the moors, where was only observable his Butts, two little hills a quarter of a mile asunder. Thence by Cloughton to Scarborough, famous for the medicinal waters. Viewed the ancient and strong castle built by William Le Gros, and after by King Henry II., upon so high a rock and so naturally defensible that the very ruins are almost impregnable. It contains within its circuit so much pasture ground as will summer about twenty cows. The town boasts of her piers as they call them, which are in the nature of a quay, which both secures the town, preserves the haven, and limits the insulting sea and prevents its encroachment, which is of such importance to sailors that they unanimously petitioned for its preservation, and obtained to that end an imposition of four-pence per vessel (or eight-pence if above one hundred chaldrons) of all that shipped with coals from Sunderland and Newcastle. But to preserve the haven, because there is none but Hull, betwixt this and Yarmouth, that in stress of weather can preserve life and goods, the mariners too have been so noble as by contribution to build an Hospital, (for the very ground whereof they gave 100/.,) for poor seamen's widows, to whose maintenance every master gives four-pence, vessel four-pence, and every man that receives above fifteen shillings wages two-pence a piece, the whole whereof amounts to a considerable subsistence, and is given them every Christmas.
15. Morning, observing some other parts of the town, and the noted Spa well; then rode by country villages to Bridlington, in good time; there observing the town, now well paved, through the benefaction of Mr. William Hustler, draper, (grandfather to Sir William, near Stockton,) who from a mean fortune attained a vast estate, partly by diligence and industry, partly by the kindness of a rich old widow, who, looking upon him as a careful young man, encouraged him by lending him money to buy his cloth at Wakefield, which he made sure to pay again within the time prefixed. She told him he need not have brought it again ; she had a great many more bags at his service, which hint (verbum sat sapienti) he improved in courtship, and married her; and now having a considerable stock, in a gainful trade, he grew so exceedingly in estate and esteem, that after her death, Mr. Sympson, of... ., gave him his daughter, and a vast fortune, whereby his family was raised to a worshipful degree. His son married one of the Saviles, and his grandson, Sir William Hustler, enjoys a plentiful estate, and pleasant seat at Acklam, and, in gratitude, became a singular benefactor to Bridlington, and at his own proper cost and charges, (except, as some say, the townsmen found their own stones,) he caused the whole town to be paved, which before was troublesome to pass for dirt: he made also a Free School, and left forty marks per annum to the master, and twenty to the usher, where now is taught his greatgrandchild, Sir William's son. This town had the happiness of another noted benefactor, Mr. William Bower, who was born of ordinary parentage, and served as a sailor to one Peacock, of the quay ; but, by God's blessing on his lawful endeavours, raised himself and numerous family to a very plentiful estate. He erected, at his own charges, a school-house, and gave to it 20/. per annum for ever, for maintaining and educating of poor children, in carding, spinning, and knitting of wool: he died 23d March, 1671, aetat. 74. I walked down to the lower town, and observed the quay; and the tide being in, saw a porpoise sporting within some yards of the piers, which some of the seamen looked upon as ominous, portending a storm.
16. Morning, up pretty early upon the journey ; we rode about three miles upon the sands; then by Barmston, where Sir Francis Boynton has a pretty seat; then through Burton, Leven, Sutton, &c. to Kingston-upon-Hull; spent much of the afternoon in viewing the town, hospital, north and south ends.
17. Morning, viewing several other parts of the and transcribing several monuments in the church, Mr. Wincop, Listers, Skinners; and several benefactions, with inscriptions upon some hospitals Mesendieus (Maison dieus); and afternoon, performing several visits to Alderman Field's, Mr. G., cousin Th., and much of the day with Alderman Richardson's son, to whom engaged for a sight of the long parchment scroll, with the list of the Mayors ; but towards even drunk too freely (though not to ebriety); with him Mr. G. Brooks and T. Sche-man, the two masters with whom I went and returned from Holland.
18. Morning, up pretty early, in order to a journey from Hull by Newland (rightly so called, for, I think, by the Dutch-like dykes and plenty of water in the marshes, it has but lately been recovered from the waters,) to Beverly, most noted for the ancient Minster, which has been of famous account ; witness the sepulture of St. John of Beverly, Archbishop of York, for whose sake King Athel-stane endowed it with a sanctuary and many privileges, both whose pictures are there, with these old words : " Als free make I thee, as hert may thynk, or eyh may see." Here is also a stately tomb for the famous warrior Piercy, Earl of Northumberland, and one for his Countess, with an arch of exquisite workmanship. Of late years, Sir Michael Wharton's is the neatest, having his figure as large as the life, in armour, in a kneeling posture, with a book before him, and pillars, all in white marble. There are, too, some ancient large blue marbles, but without inscription, the brass being torn off; may be supposed of great antiquity, as that near Earl Piercy's tomb, which, of late being digged under, there was found an ancient stone trough-like coffin, (which I saw there yet remaining,) with a silver lamp, but cannot yet be informed for whom. The town is nothing so famous or populous as I presume it has formerly been ; only the Merchants'-row, St. Mary's Church, and a house of the Wharton's, are most observable. Thence we came by Bishops Burton, (where Mr. Gee and Mr. Hodshon have each a pretty seat,) to Weeton-on-the-Wolds, a market and church town ; and thence by . ... to York.
Dec. 26. At four o'clock rode with Mr. R. Bevot to Pontefract.
27. Forenoon spent with relations; afternoon mostly with Dr. Johnston, viewing his curious collection of rarities, which for some parts cannot be paralleled, and admiring his indefatigable industry in the multitude of his manuscript volumes in folio.