A. D. 1681.
January 1. Afternoon returned to Durham.
2. Die Dom. In the forenoon went to the Minster; was somewhat amazed at their ornaments, tapers, rich embroidered copes, vestments, &c. Dr Brcvin, a native of France, discoursed of the birth of Christ; went after to Shinkley, and heard a discourse from Mr. Dixon, Colos. iii. 3.
3. Rid with relations to cousin Paxton's, at Shinkley; dined there, and returned safe to Durham.
5. Set forwards pretty early; found the ways worst at first, but afterwards tolerable, so got well to Burniston, where I found a pretty new Hospital, erected 1680, by Dr. Robinson; writ thence an inscription, vide my Collections.
7. Most of the day about some little business, and visiting some friends, and in the evening, some that scarce deserve the name, considering their carriage and designs.
8. Up writing post letters about earnest business to London, Durham, &c. and afterwards several more to drapers, by the carriers; afternoon disposing the effigies of eminent divines, and pasting them into my collection; evening at neighbour W. A.'s for an hour, then catechised the children, &c.
9. Die Dom. Mr. Sharp, from Matthew v. 43 had a good discourse concerning true mourning; was upon an use of reproof to such as are so far frorn mourning, that they spend their time in foolish merriment and jollity; showing that mirth, as it is an affection of the mind, and created by God, is very good, and commanded in Scripture, and what many of the saints of God, in all ages, have not only allowed, but praised, and have themselves been highly commended for such a cheerful spirit, thereby taking off the scandal, that spiritus Calvinisticus est spiritus melancholicus; but it is to be condemned when God calls for mourning, &c.
11. Up before four, writing till eight; then about the History of the Ancient Britons till three; then abroad for argent.
13. Lay till five; writing till eight, and so till noon; then at the funeral of Mr. Robert Ibbetson; then at Mr. B. D.'s about pious donations, writing them in order to their being fixed in the Church.
14. Mr. Sharp had an affecting discourse from the Revelations, "Behold, I stand at the door and knock."
15. Lay till six; then writing two or three hours about those primitive martyrs, after the preaching of true Christian religion in this our land; was afterwards troubled at some expressions from a Popish relation, and Mr. W. a Fleming, of good natural parts, but miserably deluded.
17. Up pretty early, reading and writing about the year 400, concerning Pelagius, whose heresy was well repugned by Germanus.
20. Lay too long, till near seven; but, as a voluntary penance, stirred not out till evening to W. A.'s; then writing again till ten.
24. Up early, about five; uncle Idle called to go to Ardington; was but indifferently furnished with company to follow the dogs; the first time I was a-hunting, and, I think, will be the last, being of Sir Philip Sidney's mind, next to hawking I like hunting worst.
Feb. 9. This morning (Mr. Fairfax) came pretty early and roused me up; stayed with him till noon, then rid, upon earnest entreaty, to Mr. Walker's of Hedingley, but after dinner observing some inclinations to intemperance, embraced the first opportunity of withdrawing. Came home in good time, though a terrible day.
10. Worthy Mr. Henry Fairfax called me up early. At noon at Mr. B. D.'s advising about some Northern business. After dinner had a sad fit of melancholy oppression; I know not how to term it: dreaded somewhat of an epilepsy; but in the evening diverted by some company, and perhaps too much in another extreme.
11. Somewhat disordered in the morning with a Dutch letter of bad debts; and then, to add to the grief, had too severe a chide from one that was offended with a single expression that I meant no harm by, but I hope it may be a warning to me to be much more cautious. Afternoon writing. Evening sent for by Dr. Stubbs, stayed rather too late.
12. Forenoon writing memoirs. Afternoon at the funeral of two ancient gentlewomen, Mrs. Child and Mr. Myrfield's mother. As for the week past in general, I look upon it as lost.
14. Writing in the morning, then with Dr. Stubbs at Woodhouse-hill, though could scarce get there for the sudden flood, occasioned either by some violent rains in the West, or rather from the sudden melting of the aforesaid snow; but the flood increasing to such a prodigious greatness as has scarce ever been known in these parts, brought large pieces of timber over our garden wall, and carried the largest logs of wood as far as Dow Bridge.
15. With Mr. Garnet to observe the greatness of the flood ; most of the day and evening abroad and spent too little time either in reading or writing, not above three or four hours these two days.
20. Die Dom. Mr. Ivison, from Acts iii. 19? had a good discourse of repentance, an honest, sound, serious sermon, as was his prayer; wherein this expression, that God would please to preserve this church from popery in her doctrine, superstition in her ceremonies, and tyranny and oppression in her government; and when praying for the clergy, begging that they may be exemplary for their purity, holiness and true virtues; that such as are scanda-lous may be removed and better put in their places
26 Rid to York to the election of the two lords as Knights of the Shire for the ensuing Parliament.
27 Die Dom. Too much vanity and idle dis-course in the morning, and too unsuitable a carriage all the day Mr. Ward in the forenoon, Psalm cxix. 32. Mr. Bloorn in the afternoon, discoursing of perseverance.
28 In the Castle-yard at the election, then making some visits, and after the dispatch of some business returned home.
March 7. Perusing some letters, papers,&c.in order to the collection of Memoirs of the best of fathers. Afternoon at a funeral, and to visit Mr. Robert Hickson. Recover him, O Lord ! if it be thy will, and deprive us not of such serviceable persons.
8. Employed about ditto letters. Then abroad about business, had some friends at dinner, received a visit from Mr. Heywood, who gave me a pleasing account of holy Mr. Angier, his father-in-law.
14. Up before five, writing letters for Durham, &c., rid eight miles with cousin Walker, of Durham ; in return, viewing the monuments in Hanvood church, which are indeed extraordinary, especially that for the famous Judge Gascoyne, who so faithfully reproved, and stoutly imprisoned Prince (afterwards King) Henry V.; and a noted warrior, J. Redman, or Redyman, as the King called him, for his quick valour. Was afterwards, with some company, at the Judges coming to town.
15. Spent all the day vainly, and idly walking or talking, or doing worse, drinking in company, and though not to excess, yet more than was necessary.
Evening, at Mr. T. W.'s, in the same humour, &c. Vae vae mihi peccatori!
25. Rid to Ledsham, with ditto worthy Mr. Richard Sykes, (the minister of Spawforth's son,) was kindly entertained at Mr. Sykes's, transcribed the epitaph from the Lady Bowles's tomb, whose statue, in her winding-sheet, is well cut in white marble; but that of Sir John Lewys is almost unparalleled—a most delicate stately monument, of curious white marble, with well-cut statues, to the life.
28 Forenoon, writing; after at Woodhouse-hill, with Mr. Wispelaer ; then at the funeral of Lawyer Bathurst's brother, who was interred with the greatest state has been known in this town ; near one hundred torches carried in state ; the room hung with black, and escutcheons and tapers ;' so was the pulpit; a velvet pall, hung with escutcheons, and carried by the chief gentry, who had gloves and scarfs; all the company had gloves, with sack and biscuits. Mr. Benson preached at nine at night, from Job xix. 26, 27-
April 5. Up in the morning, writing to Mr. T. D. and to Hull, by my best Flemish friend, Mr. Wispelaer, with whom most of the forenoon ; after, rid with him out of town, took leave of him, troubled at the loss of so well-humoured and accomplished a gentleman, whom I scarce expect to see any more. I have sometimes been in hopes that what he has heard disputed and read in England, may, Deo juvante, have some good influence upon him. Lord grant it may !
7. Up in the morning, writing in Diary; then walked with cousins, &c. to Temple Newsham, observing the structure; then to Whitchurch, transcribing some monuments of Sir Arthur Ingram, jun. &c. ; returned well home.
8. From morning to evening overlooking the labourer, and filling a glass globe with pictures ; had this day a serious admonition from old Mrs. a noted Quaker, and notable good woman, about the vanity of foolish ornaments and ribbons. I would not (as they) look upon it as unlawful to wear them, but desire to make a good use of such a reproof, and am very thankful for her commendable Christian freedom.
9. Lay till six, then with the labourer, and drawing the picture of Life and Death in one, till noon.
10. Die Dom. Awaked with a sad dejected heart, much troubled within me ; went to church, and heard an excellent sermon from Mr. Baines, (son to good old Thomas Baines, of Holbeck, and " his speech bewrayed him,") educated in Scotland, from Luke xiv. 24. He preached excellently ; and though many at first looked upon it as too fanatical, yet it pleased God so to order it, that, I think, most were too much scared to mock at the conclusion.
28. Morning, writing from five; forenoon, assisting at Mr. Robert Hickson's, in preparing for the funeral of that good man, whose loss will not easily be made up to this poor congregation, which has but few such eminent and useful members ; afterwards advising with uncle Idle about northern affairs, one of the tenants being come over.
29. Forenoon, writing and summing up ditto accounts ; then advising with Mr. B. D.; afterwards visited old Mrs. Sykes ; towards evening had a visit from Mr. Wilson, a poor nonconformist ; at Mr-R. W.'s, about his concerns.
30 At Mr. W.'s, about a collection for ditto M; W.; writing to the North; then at the funeral Worthy M, Hickson, but not able to refram from tears Lord, make me serviceable in my station, that I may live beloved, and die lamented, as my dearest father did, whose example Lord help me to imitate
May 1. Die Dom. Mr. Sharp made an excellent practical sermon, upon account of Mr. Robert Hick-son's funeral, from Eccles. xii. 5.
11. Up at four, writing till near ten, then at Mill-hill. Mr. Sharp, from Hos. vi. 1, showed the happy estate of those that return unto the Lord. Afternoon, with aunt, &c., but spent too much time idly in seeing the activity of a rope-dancer, and though many things were admirably done, yet too much time lost.
12. All day writing memoirs of worthy persons, eminent in their generation, about the year 1500, collected chiefly from Fuller's Worthies and Church History, Goodwin, Isaacson, Speed, &c. Sent for to cousin Idle about five; with him till near eleven o'clock.
13. Not up till after five; writing all the day ditto collections, and some worthy martyrs, that suffered not only the mark of Christ in their bodies, but those bodies to be burnt in the fire, rather than yield to that accursed religion, which is established in blood. Lord keep it from ever setting foot again in these nations, for Christ's sake !
25. After dinner, rid to visit honest Mr. Mars-den,* a learned and judicious Nonconformist; but, beyond Morley, met the man with the sad tidings of his death; stayed there most of the afternoon with poor Mrs. Marsden, very weak, and danger., ously sick.
27. Writing about an hour or two; about as long at the Close ; then rid to Tingley, to the funeral of that holy man, Mr. Gamaliel Marsden, whose death was much bewailed, not by relations only, but many good people and godly ministers, as a public loss. After my return, at Mr. Thomas Wilson's.
31, Rid with Mr. E. H. by way of Aberforth to York, only stayed a while at the good Lady Bar-wick's ; spent most of the evening, having first visited my sister, too freely in company.
June 1. At awaking in the morning not very well; gave a piece of a certain lecture to E. H. and resolved, Deo juvante, to be more watchful for the future. Dispatched some business in town, and after dinner, to the displeasure of some, but abundant satisfaction of myself, (especially when afterwards I understood the dreaded effects of delay) came out of town alone, but was overtaken by the company. Stayed with them at the Warrant-house, had the good company of Mr. Fairfax and Mr. Corlas, but
somewhat troubled at the freedom of another party.
2. Up pretty early, writing till after five, then walking with Mr. Bevet, then with John Rookes about business; dined with him, which took up too much time. After, had the Vicar, Mr. Milner's good company at my house, who corrected some mistakes and errata in transcribing epitaphs.
3. Up rather too early ; by three o'clock took a walk, and I think paced betwixt seven or eight miles on foot this morning. Was at Holbeck, to visit Cousin Stubbs, very ill of a wound given her in a kind of Bacchanalian fray on Tuesday night.
7. Up at five, walking till six, writing till noon, completing catalogue of my books for our learned and good vicar, Mr. John Milner.
11. Up at four, writing memoirs about the year 1544 till noon; then walked with Dutch cousin to Woodhouse-hill; where, in Cousin Fenton's best chamber, I gathered some of the corn that was rained down the chimney upon the Lord's-day seven-night, when it likewise rained plentifully of the like upon Hedingley-moor, as was confidently reported; but those I gathered with my own hands from the white hearth, which was stained with drops of blue where it had fallen, for it is of a pale red or a kind of sky colour, is pretty, and tastes like common wheat, of which I have one hundred corns. What it may signify, and whether it doth proceed from natural causes, (of which some may be prescribed) or preter-natural, such an ignorant creature as I am cannot
14. Up about four, writing till eight: sent for abroad to Mr. Hill, of London. About noon, went with cousins and much company to the Spaws, and,
15. 16, 17. Drank the sulphur water plentifully; walked much for health and recreation with the company, but alas! little regarded any good thing, generally either omitted duty or but slightly performed it.
18. Morning, drank the waters, and afterwards rode to St. Mungo's Well at Cotgrave, the coldest of all waters I ever knew.
July 2. Forenoon, viewing the heads cursorily of Ferdinando Gorge's America ; chiefly what was relating to Mr. Hooker, Shepard, Elliot, Davenport, &c. worthy ministers who fled thither.
8 and 9. Both days spent at the Spaws, in drinking the waters at the usual times; and in company, wherewith better furnished than ordinary, with Sir Ralph Jennyson of Newcastle and his lady, (my dear father and uncle's friends,) and that accomplished gentlemen, Charles Scrimshaw, Esq. of Staffordshire, from whom I received the pleasing account of some Protestant benefactors in those parts; Mr. Chetwynd, yet living, who built and endowed a church, and Mr. Taylor, his father-in-law, who built some alms-houses at Chesterfield.
10. Die Dom. Forenoon, drinking water, and afterwards wine, too regardless of discourse, &c. After, rode with Mr. Scrimshaw to hear Mr. Kirshaw of Ripley.
11 and 12. Spent both days in drinking the waters and the usual recreations, walking, &c. Went to Knaresborough, writ the heads of St. Robert's life from an old manuscript; gathered some remarkably petrified moss, viewed the Castle, &c. with the ingenious Mr. Scrimshaw, (since Sir Charles) with whom,
13. In the afternoon, I returned home. Showing him the collection of Roman coins, medals, &c. till almost midnight.
14. Rode to Wakefield with ditto worthy gentleman. Transcribed for him Dr. Syrnson's epitaph. After, rode to Snidal to visit aunt, and returned well home.
15. Forenoon, abroad about business. Dined with some Spaw company at Mr. M.'s ; stayed there till four. Spent the rest of day and evening with cousin Milner of Holland.
18. Most of forenoon consulting Mr. Carnden for the memorables in Derbyshire. Afternoon, spent mostly in visits.
19. Up about five in order to a journey to Bux-ton. Rode from Wakefield, after an hour's stay, to New-Miller's-dam ; thence over the forest by Justice Wentworth's, a worthy gentleman, who is now erecting an hospital at .... * and designs to endow it liberally for poor persons; and by Jus-tice Blythman's, another pretty seat, by the Olc Dam, and upper end of Black Barnsley to Wuspar, where Justice Edmunds has a pretty hall; thence to Sheffield, a large market town, most noted foi knives, scissors, and iron-work. Here is a statelj hospital, erected by the Earl of Norwich, great grandchild to Gilbert Earl of Shrewsbury who worthily gave 200l.. per annum for the maintenance of twenty poor people. There is another for eight persons, built by the town stock. The church is a handsome well-built fabric, with some pretty monuments, especiaUy for the numerous family of the Spencers of Attercliffe, inlaid many of them with brass in the stone very artificially ; but as the town of the hospital, so the church may chiefly boast of the stately tombs of the Talbots, Earls of Shrewsbury, the inscriptions whereof I was with much difficulty transcribing till eight at night, and
20. Up by four this morning to finish them. From Sheffield we came into a more hilly country, till, by degrees, we were got into most prodigious high mountains as ever my eye beheld, with rocks and stones, of an extreme bigness, one whereof, at the bottom of one of the biggest, is entirely the height and length of a pretty large room, and, with a little addition, serves for the side of a house. Over such vast and prodigious craggy mountains we passed some miles; till, at last, we arrived safely at Hope, a pretty country-town, seated upon the river Now, in a valley, and thence to Castleton, at the foot of the Peak, properly so called, as the learned Camden observes ; Peakland, from its peaking up into such high mountains. Upon the top of the hill is an ancient ruin, (whence the town, I suppose, had its denomination,) called the Castle in the Peak, in Latin de Alto Pecco, formerly belonging to the Pe-verels, and which, together with a manor and an honour King Edward the Third gave unto his son John Duke of Lancaster, in lieu of the Earldom of Richmond, which he surrendered into the King's hands. Under which there is a most prodigious cave within the ground, which, for the vast largeness of it, is esteemed one of the wonders of England; and, indeed, God, who is truly QocvfAotrovgyog, the only worker of wonders, has more manifested his might in this than in any other county in England, such the heaps of wonders therein. Of a marvellous capacity is the mouth of this Cave, wherein are five cottages, whence, furnished with candles, we descended lower and lower, till we were forced to creep upon our hands and feet till we came at another large place, called the Belfrey; then lower again to a water, which was then so high that it almost touched the lowering rock, that we could not possibly get farther, else, beyond this, they say is a narrower and then more spacious place, to a se-cond water; and after a third interval a third river, which, ut vulgo traditur, never any passed and returned again. Coming back to the entrance, I left the company, and with a boy alone, and each a candle, went into a narrow hole, (commonly called the Swinehole,) where, creeping upon our hands and feet, we descended lower and lower; till, at length, the narrow passage divided itself into four narrow lanes, or passages, too straight to contain our bodies to make farther inspection.
Having ascended that vast mountain, the high castle, which, when we were below, seemed almost to kiss the sky, could scarce be seen, it was so low in a seeming vale. Upon this height we had a full prospect of Mam Torr. Torr signifies, in the Derbyshire dialect, a stony, craggy hill; and Maim, either because it is maimed and broken at the top thereof, or, to follow the vulgar pronunciation, it is Mam Torr, or the Mother Hill, because, as the ingenious Dr. Fuller expresses it, it is always delivered, and presently with child again ; for incredible heaps of sandy earth constantly fall down from it, yet it is no way diminished, having, it should seem, as a constant stream, so a secret spring whence it is recruited. The inhabitants positively affirm, it is neither larger nor less than in their infancy; notwithstanding there is, as I am now, and others in the company, have been many years eye-witnesses of a continual flux of sand perpetually descending; so that it may well pass for the emblem of a liberal man never impoverished by his well bounded and grounded charity, his expenses being resupplied by a secret Providence. From Castleton, as I said, having ascended the Peak, and riding some miles upon the mountains, there is digged up lead, the best in England, not to say Europe, and the best in quantity, improving yearly in the increase of it. Thence by the Chapel in the Forest, through a hilly country, we came by Fairfield, a country village, to Buxton, such another, only noted for the warm-bath, the effects whereof are little less than miraculous in Mr. Hobbes' verses in Dr. Fuller's Worthies in Derbyshire : the place is also famous for the abode of Mary Queen of Scots, who found much benefit by the water thereof, and took her farewell with this distichon : — " Buxtona quae calidae celebrabam nomine limphae, Forte mihi post hac non adeunda, vale,"
21. I went from Buxton to see Poolshole, as marvellous a place in my opinion as any; the entrance whereto is very straight and narrow, only to be crept into, but within very spacious: it had its denomination from one Pool, of Pool's Hall, in Staffordshire, a man of great valour, who, being out-lawed, resided here for his own security. There are within many turnings and windings through the rocks, and vast craggs. Going along one steep stony passage, we return by another, both which do at length join in one passage, wherein the active fancy of some hath created many wonders, some of the stones resembling a lion, another a man; a font, into the middle whereof is one particular drop of water continually trickling down from the top of the vaulted rock, which, in this place, is very high. They show you too his chamber, closet, parlour, shelf, (a hanging rock,) whereon he laid his viands, his lurking-hole, for there are many inward recesses, and a pleasant well of water, whereof we all drank ; and, after several other remarkables, we came to the Queen of Scots' Pillar, a curious large white rock, a piece whereof I brought along with me. The Pillar is daily increased, notwithstanding the multitudes of pieces broken off, by the waters running down it, which have a petrifying virtue in them, whereof there are long icicles, very white, and curiously wrought, which you must fancy to be his organs ; and they will show you too the belfry, cum multis aliis. Spent the rest of the day in bathing, and with the good company.
22. Came by Eldenhole, which is indeed of a huge wideness, exceeding steep, and of a marvellous depth, into which I throwing a large stone, it fell from one rock or partition as it were to another, with a great thundering noise for a pretty considerable time. Speed saith, that waters trickling down from the roof of it congeal into stones. Not many miles off is a well that ebbs and flows three or four times in an .hour, as Camden relates, which I enquired of, and had the truth of it confirmed, but not an opportunity of being an eye witness of it.
23. Returned home, but over another part of the forest, where I observed plenty of lime and millstones digged up; we came by Lady Bower, passing the river Darwen, a shallow one surrounded with great hills ; and then over vast mountains, &c. to Bradfield, thence by Barnsley to Wakefield, where lay all night.
25. Spent much of the day in visits and company, writing a little after dinner, then went with uncle Idle to visit cousin Hick, who with Mr. Nevill and Mr. Banister are for London, with the Address from this town.
26. Up before four, writing all morning till seven. Then rid to Mrs. Marsden's to view the library; bought a few books and returned in time. After with good aunt, then at Mr. W.'s; and with Junr., too late at tavern ; can take time for any thing but what I should.
31. Die Dom. The learned and ingenious Dr. Sharp,* (Chaplain to the Lord Chancellor) being come to visit his father at Bradford, preached at the old church from Ephes. i. 16, showing excellently what it is to redeem time. Time past, as a traveller that has been stayed upon the road, doubles his haste to get to the end of his journey. If we have not spent our time so carefully as we ought, we must so redeem it that we may through extraordinary diligence arrive to that height of virtue we could possibly have done by a constant course ; but more particularly we must redeem time present, not spend it either idly in doing nothing, or badly in doing what is worse than nothing, but in the service of God and for the salvation of the soul. Showing excellently, that it is a duty incumbent upon all persons of what sort soever to redeem the time. Those that have trades and callings they must indeed observe them, that is a duty to God as well as themselves; but they cannot, at least ought not, to employ all their time in it; they must devote the remainder to God's service : as for those that are ready to bless God they are not put to those shifts to get their livings, there is the more necessity for them to allot a greater time to the service of God ; greatly lamenting the folly of many persons that know not how to spend their time — could wish themselves as in a sound sleep all the intervals of pleasure,—they know not how to get over this hour till sweet company come. Alas, alas ! have such no souls to save ? Will not they find them work enough not only for hours, but all the days of their life. But, besides there are no persons of so mean capacities but they may improve time, though they can neither read nor write, yet may they meditate and discourse of good things. Then came to the reasons. Redeem the time because the days are evil. The days we live in, blessed be God, are not such days of persecution as those under which the Apostles lived, wherein it was death to profess Christ; we live under a gracious Prince, and have the laws for our security in the true Protestant religion ; and yet, notwithstanding, the argument holds good, we should redeem the time because the days are evil. Our sins justly merit judgments, and God may bring them upon us as in a moment; we should therefore redeem the time we have, we should walk circumspectly, not as fools but as wise. Came very accurately to describe the Christian's politics, as he should carry himself in a time of danger : he should serve the time ; comply in things that are not unlawful by the law of God, if enjoined by a lawful authority, if he can do it with a safe conscience, as Paul endeavoured to be all things to all men, and do all things with discretion and moderation, and swim down the stream calmly, though that must be understood with caution, when it is not contrary to the law of God, nor the testimony of our own consciences for then we are of all most inexcusable. But if it may be, we should submit to the government by law established, submit ourselves to the present state of things, that is, again, if not contrary to God's law ; for the man arid his doctrine is to be abhorred that will always be upmost in all things; if the Protestant interest, or Popery, or Mahometanism come up he will be of it. No, if it be contrary to the word of God we must not comply in the least; and, if you ask what must then be done ? 1st. A man is not obliged, either by the law of God or man, to discover his opinion and blazon it to his own danger. But 2d. If he should be persecuted upon it, he is allowed by the scripture, and example of the Apostles, to flee from place to place to secure himself, though both these must be cautiously understood ; for when we are called to give an account of our faith, then either to deny it, or comply in the least contrary to our consciences with Popery, would be to deny God; in such cases we must commit the whole to God, and beg his strengthening grace.
10. Before five, to get the horse in order to a journey to Swaith, to
advise with Mr. Wads-worth ; found much civility, and returned home
well; was writing Esquire Blythman's Epitaph in Royston church, and
an inscription upon an hospital of the virtuous Lady Armine's, at Burton
22. Up at four, writing till nine; then took leave of good Mrs. Hickson, senr. the flower of our female flock a virtuous, good, holy, wise, prudent woman, of vast parts and abilities, and indeed above encomiums: exceedingly troubled we must lose her. With her brother Mr. Gunter, Mr. Garnet, &c. till noon ; then had Bulmer uncle, and relations, to dinner; sat till four, but without the least intemperance, or the fruit of it, the least angry word, or falling out; then with them at tavern till evening.
Sept. 4. Die Dom. Mr. Ivison, from that of the Apostle, " none can come unto me, but whom the Father draweth ;" an excellent discourse, truly showing our impotency, though to the distaste of some, hot zealots for Arminianism ; there seeming to be an opposition betwixt them, as of old time betwixt Hooker and Travers ; and at our town old Mr. Cook and Garbut, all worthy good men, yet at great enmity about general redemption—though in my slender opinion, many were much to blame (as Alderman L. and honest Mr. S.) to leave the Church, especially considering it is the fundamental doctrine of the Church of England, asserted in the very Articles of it; and to oppose the contrary, King James sent over four eminent divines to the Synod of Dort, but now it is almost out of fashion.
6. We rode to Burrow bridge, and thence to Top-cliffe, where supposing we should not stay long, left my charged pistols in the bags, which at my mounting again, being gone, caused a great jealousy of some design against us; and the rather, because Mr. H. and his debtor had come to high words, and the landlord took the debtor's part, and denied to send for the ostler, till upon some brisk compliments, we were just for riding to depose upon oath before Sir M. Robinson, and then in the very same straw we had sought carefully before, they were found, and one of them where the horse could not get to ; which more fully manifested the knavery, as also their leaving, for a pretence, the red bags in the holster; but we got very well, though late, to Northallerton that night.
7. Thence by Darlington to Durham ; whence, after a short stay with relations, to Newcastle, but did little business.
8. Morning, visited some drapers, in order to their accounts; then went with E. H. down to Shields by water, but it proved a most terrible stormy day . . . visited Tinmouth Castle, now almost ruined, and maintained by a slender garrison; and the new fort called Clifford's, fortified with thirty culverins, and ten demi-culverins, under the government of the Earl of Newcastle; in the evening not daring, without imminent hazard, as the ship-master said, to return by water, were forced to hire horses and return by land to Newcastle.
9. Morning, finishing my business with some drapers ; went to Sandgate to enquire of, and receive some cut-rents, and at return, took horse for Northumberland; about five miles off, transcribed some verses from a monumental pillar, erected in the highway, by John Pigg, the mathematician; thence by Captain Edward Widdrington's, at Felton, to Mor-peth and after a short stay there, over the Moors to Alnwick, an ancient town fortified with a curious castle, and an old wall.
10. By Rock; where I found the old tenants repenting their unkind dealings, and continual mur-murings for abatements, which hastened the sale of the estate; and now they would gladly have the same lands at an ordinary advancement; discoursed Mr. Clavering about the arrears; thence over the Moors to Belford, thence over the Sands, where we had a fair prospect of Holy Island, to Berwick, where we got well, and in time to view the town, which is ancient and ill-built, but stands very com-modiously and is well fortified.
11. Die Dom. Being at church too early, was transcribing some monuments, which was the first place I observed the Scotch mode for Aldermen and persons of some rank to be buried in the churchyard. The church was built, 1652, Colonel Fen wick, then Governor, being a chief instrument (in memory of whom there is an inscription in the church, of which, see p. 125, of my Collections,) by procuring monies owing to the town for soldiers' pay ; it has no steeple, the old one in the midst of the town serving: the Minister was on the different sorts of sorrow, the benefits of the godly, and the disadvantage of the carnal; was to visit Mr. Windlows, and after walked round the walls.
12. Morning, from Berwick over the Moors, where we found the proverb verified, that a Scotch mist, for I cannot say it rained, wets the Englishman to the skin, to Hayton, a country town, seated upon the river Hay, the mouth whereof is not far distant from St. Abb's Head ; then near Coldingharn Abbey, the nuns whereof cut off their noses to preserve their chastity from the insulting Danes; leaving on the right hand Dunglass, the lordship whereof belonged to the famous soldier, Patrick Ruthen; thence to Dunbar, seated on the sea, an eminent town, built after the Scottish manner; most tombs (of which Stephanides is of most note) of persons of good rank are without the church, only in an aisle adjoining to it there is a stately monument for George Hume, (a numerous family in these parts, most of the castles, lands, and houses we past by being of that name) Earl of Dunbar, and Lord High Treasurer of Scotland. Here I was, with three more, dubbed Knight of the Bass, a little island near the town, rising up all on a solid rock, where is a prison, that of late has been stocked with Nonconformists : here, I must confess, I was too impatient at the Scotch victuals, not able to eat any thing, though we had the bailiff's (or alderman's) own dinner; only at last made a shift to get down some eggs, without bread, butter, or salt, but spent the time in the church-yard, transcribing epitaphs, viewing the town, and the way of making and drying red herrings very dexterously. From Dunbar through many small towns, and a pleasant country, we came to Haddington, where we lodged all night.
13. Up pretty early, and transcribing some monuments in the church-yard, amongst which, a curious one for Mr. Gary, a minister of the Earl of Roxburgh's family; but in an aisle belonging to the church is a most stately one for Duke Lauderdale's father and mother and sister, of curious black, white, and speckled marble, with four statues, and curiously wrought pillars, and a large inscription, vid. p. 130, of my Coll. From Haddington, we rode to Mussleborough, where was the great fight betwixt the Scots and English, An. 1547, and where we observed a curious engine for draining the fire from the coal mines ; thence through a pleasant country to Leith, a pretty town, populous, and well-built, not far from Edinburgh, the metropolis of that ancient kingdom.
14. Morning, standing in the yard of the Parliament House, observing the several members and nobles as they went to the House, and after them, the Duke of York and Albany in great state. Was, after, in the great Church, at the ordination of a minister by the Bishop of Galloway, which was (contrary to all expectation) by the English Common Prayer. After which, he gave him a most serious charge to mind his duty, and live worthy of his high calling; showing very well, how little their words can prevail, if their lives preach not. After dinner, viewing several parts of the town; the castle, where the kings of the Picts used to keep their daughters at needle-work till marriage, thence called Maiden Castle, built upon a rock, and well fortified; Goldsmith's Hospital, a most stately structure, but sadly perverted as to the design of the founder, many of his vast donations being either lost or mis-employed; and transcribing several mottoes there, and monuments in White Friars churchyard, the only place where the generality of persons are interred.
15. At Holyrood house, observing the state of the building and attendants, where many judge is as great a court as at Whitehall. Afterwards, at the Bibliotheca, transcribing several benefactions, of which vid. p. 139. The library is adorned with many curious books, and other rarities, a skeleton very exactly done, a speaking tube, a large leaf of a tree, a skull of a most prodigious thickness, and a horn out of a woman's forehead, with an inscription upon a plate of silver giving an account of it, vid. p. 140 Collection ; with the pictures of several great personages, the famous Lord Napier, Knox, Hender-son, Buchanan, whose skull is there also, the thinnest ever seen or known, such indeed as is scarce credible without the sight of it. There are the pictures also of the foreign Reformers, Calvin, Beza, Luther, &c. a thunderstone, &c.
16. Up pretty early, preparing for a further journey Left Mr. Hickson at Edinburgh, but had Mr Eleazer Hodshon along with me. We found a pleasant country to Kirkliston, thence to Linlithgow, where is a stately palace, built mostly by King James VI. which is now much ruined; especially a curiously wrought conduit in the midst of the court, of very good workmanship. The town arms are the picture of a dog, chained to a tree, growing out of a lough, which tree is yet to be seen in the great lough near the town, upon which depends the name, and an old fabulous story too tedious to relate. Thence to Falkirk, where, in the churchyard, I found an ancient monument for John Grseme, a famous warrior, slain by the English anno 1298. Thence to Stirling, a very fair town, adorned with a curious large church, a stately hospital, founded by Cowin, a strong castle, and many noblemen's houses, the Earls of Mar and Argyle, &c. being seated near the Highlands; which shows to be a most formidable country, full of mountainous crags and terrible high hills.
17. Up pretty early, and over many a high hill and barren mountain for nine miles to Kilseth, a little country town. Thence nine more, but in a pleasant country, full of little towns, to Glasgow, the university ; a very pleasant city, far exceeding Edinburgh itself, in the situation and cleanness. Transcribing some epitaphs from the Cathedral, and other inscriptions of benefactions from the College, Hutchinson's hospital, &c. From Glasgow, we returned the same day to Kilseth, and from thence, with a guide, in a most terrible stormy night, over the hill to ..... bridge; and thence, though very late and tempestuous, to Falkirk by twelve o'clock, stretching so far, though to the hazard of all our bodies, that we might the less trespass upon the Lord's-day.
18. Die Dom. Rose very early again, after but a little sleep, and got by Linlithgow to Kirkliston, and thence to Edinburgh; though somewhat wearied with the hasty journey, thinking to return for England the next day. Went to the great church, beside the Parliament-House, where the minister made a very good and seasonable discourse against the sins of the times, particularizing many with the several apologies that are made for them, which he well confuted. Observed the stall of the Provost, many of the Bishops and persons of quality.
19. Not setting forward, as was designed, spent this day more in viewing the town, transcribing some monuments, those especially in the Abbey church, one most stately for the Lord Belhaven, another for Bishop Wishart, Lady Hamilton, and Lady Scot. Evening, taken up with company, and making ready for our journey.
20. Morning, set out pretty early with ditto Mr. Hickson, &c. from Edinburgh ; we passed a pleasant country to Lubberton, thence to . . . ., and the Earl of Dalkeith's house over the moors and hills, (not far from Dalkeith, Monmouth's title,) to Bortwych castle ; thence to Heriot House; then in the dale, with great hills on both hands; we crossed the river of Gallowater sixteen or fifteen times, as I counted it; and then the famous river of Tweed, near Selkirk.
21. Up by twelve o'clock, in order to a journey, and, with a guide, were got over most prodigious high hills and very many of them by daybreak; thence, by Teviotdale, upon the brink of a steep hill for some miles, to Usedale, where, upon the sudden, the precipice grew to that height and steepness, and withal so exceedingly narrow, that we had not one inch of ground to set a foot upon to alight from the horse. Our danger here was most dreadful, and, I think, inconceivable to any that were not present; we were upon the side of a most terrible high hill, in the middle whereof was a track for the horse to go in, which, we hoped to find broader, that we might have liberty to turn the horse; but, instead of that, it became so narrow, that there was an impossibility to get further ; for now it begun likewise to be a sudden declension, and the narrow way so cumbered with shrubs, that we might be forced to lie down upon the horses' necks, and have our eyes upon a dreadful precipice, such as mine eyes never till then beheld, nor could I have conceived the horror of it by any one's relation. We had above us a hill, so desperately steep, that our aching hearts durst not attempt the scaling of it, it much steeper than the roofs of many houses; an hospital for twelve poor widows, who have each 40s. per annum, by James Knowles, who left the remainder of the interest of 800/. to the use of the church; thence over the hills several miles in the dark, to Skipton, a larger town, that lies skulking among the hills, where is a stately castle, adorned with several pictures of the Cliffords, that ancient and eminently noble family, to whom it belonged, and who are buried under stately monuments in the church, which I transcribed.
25. Die Dom. Got up pretty early, and rid to Ighley, and thence hoped to be in time enough for forenoon sermon, at my Lord Fairfax's, but came too late. After an exceeding kind entertainment at dinner, we heard his Lordship's chaplain, Mr. Ry-mer, who made an excellent discourse from Revelations : " Blessed are the dead that die in the Lord, for they rest from all their labour." After sermon (though much against his Lordship's kind humour,) returned by Burley and Otley, to Leeds again.
28. Coming up the street with Mr. Hickson, we were sent for by the Earl of Eglinton; had some discourse with him concerning Scotland, his motion in that Parliament, &c. After dinner, writing some epitaphs I had collected in my travels till evening.
Oct. 2. Die Dom. Mr. Medcalf (to speak modestly, because of his function,) made a very ordinary mean sermon, full of bitter, malicious reflections upon the Nonconformists, ripping up the wounds of the late unhappy times, exposing the blemishes of that worse than Egyptian thraldom, as he called it; expressly affirming that, but for the goodness of God, and wisdom of our rulers, we had at this day been brought to the same pass again ; unworthily reflecting upon the whole Parliament, as though the abatement of a few ceremonies would have been the ruin of both Church and State,—a bad preparation sermon for the Sacrament.
6. Sorting letters, &c. till about eight, then rode with Mr. Jolly and Mrs. and Mr. Jackson to visit our friends at Swaith, who were gone to a sermon at Esquire Rodes', at Houghton-hall, but at evening returned accompanied with Mr. Kirby and his mother, a religious and ingenious young minister, from whom I had some information concerning his good father now with Christ.
Nov. 2. To visit honest parson Ivison, and to thank him for his good sermons, those especially against Arminianism, whereat many dons were offended, though it was nothing but the doctrine of the true Church of England, as drawn up at Lambeth itself, and confirmed by Archbishop Abbot and the Church in his time, by King James and the whole Synod of Dort, and all the Reformed Churches abroad.
5. Lay sluggishly too long in the morning. Rode to Gleaday, being invited as a bearer to Mr. Waddington's funeral. Mr. Medcalf preached from Job xix. 26. Afterwards went to Holbeck, rest of relations being gone before; stayed till pretty late, yet after that up street, where upon earnest importunity I had sent my ship to be discharged with the other fireworks.
16. To Loftus to have a sight of some manuscripts of Mr. Hopkinson's, late Norroy King-at-Arms.
18. Evening reading the well writ life of that holy and renowned judge. Hale, the honour of England, and pillar of justice, of a christianly moderate temper. Oh, for such another incomparable triumvirate as Hale, Bridgman, and Wilkins, to heal our breaches and compose our differences !
Dec. 1. Evening reading the Earl of Northumberland's funeral sermon (a manuscript borrowed of kind cousin Sykes), and much affected with the seriousness and piety of that great lord.
24. Spent most of the day in writing of Mr. Bilney, martyr, who at the stake repeated the 143 Psalm, but paused upon these words, " Lord, enter not into judgment with thy servant," &c. ; with deep recollections, the sense whereof mightily affected me
27. Up in the morning writing till ten ; then heard Mr. Kay's Commemoration sermon, for the pious founder of the New Church, Mr. John Harrison, upon St. John's day.
31. Enquiring of Archbishop Margetson, a native of Drighlington, who there built and endowed a free-School, with seventy pounds per annum. After re-turn had some visits. Evening at Mr. E. H's.; was concerned for some sad news of intentions to suppress conventicles, &c.